Ben Hart
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I’ve used the panel beater quite a bit. Probably one of my favorite tools. It can make the metal work really quick and allows you more control than a uni-spotter for the finer working/finishing of the metal.
Only thing I don’t like is that the panel beater isn’t very good for real hard/heavy repairs, where a uni-spotter/slide hammer would be better suited.
Not familiar with Maxident, but curious to hear about it.
These guys gave some good advice. Don’t bother wasting your money on a new gun. That is just the nature of the product. I’ve used that base before, and the metallics are near impossible to lay out perfectly. Take their advice and work on your technique to get better, but don’t expect miracles.
And if you wind up painting some smaller jobs, the price difference between shop line and a better product isn’t that great. Plus, most better products cover/hide much better so you will likely use less material with the more expensive paint.
Someone on this forum might have a cup to sell you, lots of SATA users on here. Maybe just wait and see…
You could hire someone with a legal background to write you something you can use, then just print them off yourself. No matter what you buy, this would be the best way, and can be tailored to reflect your needs and the laws in your area.
I think most of use that do electronic invoicing have that sort of stuff within the software. Not sure where you can purchase generic printed invoices/work orders for bodyshops…but they are out there.
I think here, in Canada & the US, Dynabrade is probably the most popular brand. Hutchins was popular as well, but their units are getting a little outdated, though still reliable. 3M has had one for a few years that is nice to use. I have used the Blue Point one a few times and it seems decent. I’ve gone the slightly cheaper route and use a Chicago Pneumatic DA and it works fine.
Pretty well, most of the name brand units are decent. Keep away from the cheaper ones, and try one out first if you can. They are all slightly different in weight/size, so finding something comfortable is important.
Another thing to consider is the orbit size.
Sounds a little funny to me. I don’t think I would be comfortable doing that…at least not until I figured out a little more about the products.
By the sounds of it, I am one of the few who is not hating the hardener in the water base…
Jimmo, with the Sikkens, the base does seem to dry up nice and hard with the hardener. It doesn’t stay tacky/gummy for long.
are you guys using a hardener in your base coat, or not? I would imagine you can use the Autowave hardener in there, which may help.
I’ve done quite a few with water. Currently using Sikkens Autowave (basically the same as Lessonal WB). Do as Jimmo said and let the base have a long flash, or if you have the facilities to, bake the base for 20 minutes. We use the Purple 3M vinyl tape (looks like the blue fine line) but is meant for waterborne. No residue with that. Also, you may want to keep a roll of the green 3M tape around for this rather than the yellow…might work a little better.
I don’t know how to remove any tape residue with the water as I have never had any left behind.
Why not give the store a call today and ask them what it was that they sold you. Almost every brand of wax and grease remover I’ve used has smelled a little bit different.
I don’t know what he gave you. Should have some sort of label. Its technically illegal to sell that sort of stuff with out proper labeling/WHMIS info on the can.
Smell alone is not really a good indication. Most solvent products are a blend of several different types of solvents, so often different products can smell similar but be very different.
In theory, you can clean a panel with just about any solvent, but you want to be cleaning with something that is fairly aggressive to lift contaminants but relatively fast to flash off and not eat into your substrate.
I think most of use would love that. Unfortunately, if you are working somewhere like where I am, that is not an option. Must do that ourselves. Some shop owners don’t seem to believe in preventative maintenance.
Yep, as Jimmo said, that is the safest bet. Priming will also eliminate the chance of any wrinkling/issues re-baseing over your fresh paint.
[quote=”smooth” post=26698]Remember that sandpaper is the more agressive of the two, probably not the best for thin clear….[/quote]
Especially if you are sanding it wet. You won’t know you burnt through the clear until it is too late..and by that point it is probably a big burn through…
There are several products out there. Sikkens has an antistatic cleaner. Having a little extra humidity in the booth seems to prevent static from getting worse while spraying. I know some guys will ground their metal parts.
I haven’t tried these Devilbiss wipes, but I’d like to: [url=http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/DesktopModules/Bring2mind/DMX/Download.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=881&PortalId=0&TabId=86][/url]