Ben Hart
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Blending into 1 adjacent panel doesn’t use a whole lot of material. Doing that would be cheaper than redoing jobs and pissing off the customer, would it not?
With matte paints/clears you need to make sure the product is mixed very, very well. You also need to be very consistent when applying it. If one pass is heavier than another it could end up glossier. Many matte products flash off quickly, so it can be harder to keep a wet edge going, proper planning and good technique are critical.
These are what Bondo is still using to mix colours on with his lucite bench. I hear next year he’s upgrading to Centari :p
There is a website online that has a lot of the old books for referencing paint codes.
http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml
I think this is the colour you are refering too. Not a true cady effect:
[img]http://paintref.com/graphics/chip/ford_1966__dupont_c_03.jpg[/img]
[img]http://paintref.com/graphics/chip/ford_1966__ppg_c_01.jpg[/img][quote=”smooth” post=26061][quote=”Ben” post=26051]I sweat pretty good in the paint suite too, but I always wear it. The fresh air hood helps with that a bit too though[/quote
thats cause you dont wear clothes inside your suit :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:[/quote]
Thats just what I tell Bondo so he sleeps better at night :rofl
I sweat pretty good in the paint suit too, but I always wear it. The fresh air hood helps with that a bit too though
[quote=”Jayson M” post=26045]All of the teknas spray the same,the most popular do anything set up would be the 1.3/1.4 tips with a 7E7 compliant air cap.[/quote]
I thought you were going to recommend the Plus gun :p
I agree, for the price the Tekna is probably the best all around gun available right now
Looks like a good job. Was he repairing the inner section of the box or cleaning up the rust?
Does the new guy know you have everyone on the internet critiquing his work 🙂
I agree. Not worth the hassle. You will have to buy the activator anyway (as most have a short shelf life), so why not spend the little extra on the primer as well just to be safe.
I’ve got some junk tools. Up here we have Princess Auto for all the Junk tools you could possibly need 🙂
Other than my body hammers, all my other hammers are cheap ones, pretty strong and durable but cheap enough I don’t care if they get damaged. I’ve also got a big ass breaker bar that’s held up decent. My Chinese plastic riveter was worthless, they replaced it 3 times for free but eventually I broke down and bought the nice Marson one. And some speciality mechanical tools like a pickle fork, hub nut sockets, 3 jaw puller etc
Guess I’m a little late.. but hope you had a Happy ending…I mean Birthday!
[quote=”ejb” post=25982]Thank you for the reply. I don’t know what regulations are in my area. I am out in the country in my shop at my house in a homemade booth.
What I used last time on the Camaro was Deltron 2000 DBC.
Now that I think back on my last paint job I did spray a 2k primer over the polyester primer but then I shot a sealer after that. So I don’t need a sealer if I shoot a 2k primer.My gun is a cheap gun but seemed to work great on the Lemans blue with metallic. Does silver have more metallic in it?
What tip should I use for the silver.I have an old door left over that I am going to prep and paint for practice. I just don’t want to buy $1000 worth of paint and then find out that silver is over my head.[/quote]
Deltron is a good product, if you can still get it where you are..
2k urethane primer and urethane sealer are basically the same thing. Just that the 2k primer-surfacer is designed to build/fill then be dried and sanded. Primer-sealer is applied wet on wet (no sanding required) and has minimal film build. Sealer is most often used on new panels where there is no repair work, but a good foundation for the topcaot is needed (quicker than applying 2k primer and sanding). Sealer does have a few other uses, but that’s a different topic…
So the short answer is no, you do not need sealer at all if you use 2k urethane primer so long as there are no burn throughs in the primer, and it is prepped fine enough for your base coat (finished in the 500-800 grit range).
Silver doesn’t necessarily have more metallic in it than other metallic colours, it just doesn’t have very much for coloured pigments/toners. Every colour and paint manufacturer is a little different when it comes to mixing the paint. Test your gun out, you may be fine, just be consistent and follow the tech sheet. Fluid tip size can vary, but I would think with Deltron in most guns a 1.3 would be a good starting point.
Welcome to the site.
Are you somewhere not affected by the low VOC regulations yet? and are you going to use PPGs Deltron then?
As far as silvers being difficult, they can be at times. I would say they are less forgiving than others indeed. There are a lot of inexpensive guns out there so I have no idea about the one you are using. If you are comfortable with it, then try spraying a sample and see if you get the results you want. Having a great finish relies heavily on the applicator, a better gun may help but won’t guarantee perfection.
Lastly, I am a little concerned about your polyester primer. It is a good product, but sealing it then basing over wet on wet like that is a little risky, especially since you are doing an entire car. I would highly recommend spraying the entire car with urethane primer and sanding it before proceeding to topcoat. If it were me, I would want to have a little more film build between my base coat and poly primer (or body filler for that matter). If you apply the urethane primer properly and prep it really well, sealer will not be necessary and may result in a nicer finish.
Sounds like you either need to start tinting or maybe try a different brand.
A drop/orientation coat may help lighten it, otherwise you may want to try altering the metallics in the formula
I am not familiar with Onyx, so I am not sure what you have available for metallics or a flop controller. Another option may be to call BASF and talk to their help line.
Looks great Jayson. Nice to see a manual it it too!