Ben Hart
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[quote=”ElliottG” post=23074][quote=”Ben” post=23073]There are probably 2 more important factors to consider first. The first one is your air supply. Will you have enough CFM to properly supply a gun. Secondly, what product(s) are you spraying. Each product may require a different setup on a gun (different air caps and different size of fluid tip/nozzle).
As far as waterborne goes, most guns are ok. The only thing that makes a gun good for waterborne is the gun being made of materials that will not corrode, or have coatings on it to prevent corrosion.[/quote]
I’m pretty sure my compressor is big enough and up to the job. It’s a pretty big one.
As for product…I have no idea. I don’t even know what the guy gives me when I go to buy paint? When I buy paint for lets say a 2002 VW Passat, he mixes the paint up right there for me, right? If so, does it come in a PPG can or something? I mean, basically, I’m confused because I see people spraying PPG (and others) paint, but what happens if you need a color match? I know my question is really confusing but when you go to your local paint shop what do they give you?
I know my friend has a Iwata 400 all stainless steel ready for waterborne paints…but I have no idea if I’ll ever be using those? And I think that that gun is way out of my price range…[/quote]
It should say on the label of the can what it is, or else ask them. PPG has several base coats, you are probably getting the Deltron or Deltron 2000.
You can get decent results spraying both base and clear with the same gun with some products. However, the best thing to do is get one specific gun setup for each, but by that point you are probably spending $1000+ on the 2 guns.
For what you are doing at home, you would probably be good with something like the Devilbiss Tekna, or the older GTi.
Exactly how big is your compressor? You need a lot of CFM, most 60 gallon compressors are not quite up to snuff to do the job really well.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=23072][quote=”bloverby” post=23070]My Nexa rep. always corrects me whenever I call an “orientation coat” for aquabase a “drop coat”. :nothingtoad[/quote]
Ask him to explain the difference. :evil:[/quote]
Is that like Sikkens terminology VS PPG terminology VS Sherwin Williams terminology. :lol1
Kinda like calling your wife by your ex’s name :roflThere are probably 2 more important factors to consider first. The first one is your air supply. Will you have enough CFM to properly supply a gun. Secondly, what product(s) are you spraying. Each product may require a different setup on a gun (different air caps and different size of fluid tip/nozzle).
As far as waterborne goes, most guns are ok. The only thing that makes a gun good for waterborne is the gun being made of materials that will not corrode, or have coatings on it to prevent corrosion.
[quote=”jeremyb” post=23062]Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.[/quote]
Needing a drop coat doesn’t make a system inferior, it is just a different technique. Many of the waterborne paints recommend a drop coat or similar process. I would agree that metallic control is generally a lot easier with a quality system, however.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=23038]what do ya need ta know sorry i missed this earlier[/quote]
Just because you put Martin Senour labels on your old rusty cans of lucite, doesn’t make you a Martin Senour expert… :whistle:
On the other hand, if you don’t need to worry about an exact colour too much and the price it great, buy it anyway. Then buy another litre (or however much you might need) of a similar colour blue and mix them together.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23016]Good info everyone.If you can still get it old lacquer primer works great.put about an inch of primer in the old syphon feed gun pot, fill it with gunwash, mix it up and hang it on the bench,mine is always ready to go.I don’t care how good you are you should use it,not just for blocking but for finding pinholes and other imperfections.I have used it for 25 years,doesn’t matter if it is a 4 inch primer spot or a whole car.Its also nice if you change grits you must use it to get all the sanding scratches out.I have to fix stuff everyday before I paint it from bodymen that don’t use it and it looks like they sanded with a garden rake :x[/quote]
I keep forgetting what its like to prime someone else’s work. There’s a lot more confidence when you do it yourself…lol :whistle:
basically as these guys said.
Most products have little to no info on the cans as they are for professional use (basically, if you don’t know how to use it then you shouldn’t be using it, is what they are getting at).
Are you using the Martin Senour products? go to their site for the tech sheets: http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/
If you are guide coating your body filler you can spray whatever colour you want over it and block it down. There is a liquid guide coat you can buy for body filler that you just wipe on, and once it dries after a few minutes block. Anything can be used (paints, primers etc) just make sure it dries fast and you remove it completely before priming (don’t want to cover any bare metal areas with it).
If you are guide coating primer you can spray whatever over the primer. You should wait until the primer is either dry or at least out of dust. 3M makes a dry powder version that can be wiped on, then sanded wet or dry. I have used aerosol, other primers, old basecoat etc before. The colour doesn’t matter just as long as it contrasts the primer.
I don’t use guide coat too often, but if I am doing a large job where there is a lot of blocking I will. Generally once you get good feeling with your hand you will find that guide coating is needed near as much.
When doing your primer you can guide coat between each grit, this will also help to ensure you removed the coarser sand scratches.
Going to throw them in the dumpster behind the local Burger King? lol…
Welcome to the site. There are a lot of great threads on here if you want to dig through them or ask whatever you want to know. There are a lot of great people here and often some good varying methods
I think the 1 question is about adjacent panels. I am careful when prepping blends and will run a 3/4″ piece of masking tape down the adjacent panel if I am concerned then I will be careful with sanding and scuffing.
If I am grinding beside an adjacent panel I will run at least 2 pieces of duct tape on top of eachother and possibly apply some spark paper or masking paper over the panel for additional protection. Rarely ever have issues.
As far as rust goes, most collision shops avoild rust repairs if possible. In the event that you do need to do one, there is no gaurantee from the get go.
with the 2000 aircap…
Air Flow: 12.5-16.0 CFM @ 30 PSI Inlet (from Devilbiss)
[quote=”smooth” post=22750][quote=”TLB” post=22741]Sometimes we get more, not always.
We are DRP for many Insurance companies, State Farm, Farmers, AAA, Auto Owners, Citizens, and you know when you are a DRP you have to give them discounts for parts and labor.
AAA also requires a photo of the blend process. Are any of you required do do this?[/quote]
No. I have never heard of such a thing. I cant believe that a shop would ever let a insurance comp. ever get that far. I offer a service to my insurance companys not let them tell me what to charge and what to do. DRP shops are :cens .[/quote]
I’ve worked in 3 DRP shops. Never had to do anything like that. They pay retail for parts or cost plus 20-30% on sublet items and special order parts. Generally whatever we supp for on the final estimate and invoice they pay without questioning. And as far as having to provide proof of repair with photos, that just sounds fawked as if they’ve caught you trying to screw them before.
Only thing we get is the occasional random re-inspection from State-Farm every couple of months.
[quote=”ding” post=22737][quote=”TLB” post=22736][quote=”sagikun” post=21678]insurance job. when replacing a fender, are u guys getting blend time for where the roof rail meets the fender?[/quote]
We get 1 hour per major panel thats needs blending, .5 for posts, c pillars, & bumber ends.
Now if you are talking about Progressive Ins :cens[/quote]Blend time is supposed to be 1/2 of base refinish time and even thats light considering it takes just as long to do a blend panel as it does a full refinish panel. Why are you cutting your own throat and giving away blends at 1hr apiece?[/quote]
Like Ding siad, Thats kinds weird. Do you not go by the times in the estimating guides?