Ben Hart
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[quote=”ding” post=22656]dont paint below the waterline at all if the guys is gonna keep it in the water. if you do it wont stay on there for long[/quote]
Exactly.
Is it possible to just paint above the water line and just go to town polishing the lower portion of the boat for now?
Painting it and then having to strip the paint later is only going to cost you more $ and create more work.
Welcome to the site…nice to see another GM dealer employee here.
[quote=”chevman” post=22606][quote=”bloverby” post=22603][quote=”chevman” post=22601] I don’t remember what type paint Kosmo used[/quote]
I’d be real surprised if he was using anything other than House of K(osmoski)olor. Since he owned that paint comopany.
If your doing that thing in the blue and white solid colors just use ppg concept single stage and forget the clear all together, that little tiny paint break line in a crease isn’t gonna amount to a hill of beans.[/quote]
I know who he is, I meant the type of paint.
Not sure when blue came in, its actually solid Yellow and white.
It seems to me that its much easier to scratch without clearcoat, maybe my imagination.[/quote]A good S.S. is just as durable as a good clear. Many of the good S.S. paints resist scratching well. A minor scratch may appear different in S.S. than clear since there is colour in it, but on the other side, a minor scratch in S.S. is generally easy to fix.
Concept is a great durable S.S. If doing a solid colour paint jobs on something decent, concept would probably be my top choice.
My favourite epoxy was the DuPont 2580CR, only 20-30 minutes flash time before topcoating with paint or primer surfacer. Or overnight for filler. Personally never had any issues with it.
I’ve personally never had shrinkage issues with sealer. Could have been your application or could have been an inferior product. I would imagine the cheap 1k sealers would tend to do that.
Talk to the Debeer rep again. If you are using a quality primer (their primer) you should be able to base right over it without sealer. I don’t know the product at all, so I can’t help you out specifically.
Hello, welcome to the site.
The gun you have could work great to spray your cabinets, just depends on the product you are spraying. If you are using household latex paint, there will be issues with viscosity and coverage. You would need to use a paint with a lower viscosity and higher opacity.
I’m not sure what the best product to use would be, but personally I would consider something like an alkyd enamel. Should spray nice, give a nice level of gloss and be more than durable enough for kitchen cabinets.
[quote=”paintbreaker” post=22536]sealer is use before primer surfacer or before basecoat? how about epoxy primer?[/quote]
Sealer is used right before your base coat (on top of properly prepped primer surfacer or other substrates).
There are different epoxy primers. Some are generally just used to go over bare metal, filler, fiberglass etc before applying the primer surfacer. Other epoxy primers are primer/sealers and can be used like both a sealer and an epoxy primer. If you are using it, read the tech sheet.
Sealer has several specific uses. Sealer is not needed in many instances, but should be used when necessary.
Sealer is a generally used as a wet on wet primer. It does not fill like a primer surfacer but does has some minor filling capabilities. Sealer is generally used in collision shops over top of new parts (bumpers, fenders, moldings etc) in a wet on wet process so the parts are only prepped once. The primer that is on these new parts is not very suitable to be painted over. The sealer provides adhesion, chip resistance, and in some cases corrosion protection.
Sealer is also used when there may be a compatibility issue between 2 products. It may also be used over burn throughs in repair panels. Using sealer may also allow you to finish your work with a slightly coarser grit of paper (say, 400 instead of 500 or 600). Sealer also helps the top coat hold out and retain gloss.
Again, as smooth said, it can be used for your valu-shade on poor hiding colours.
There are a lot of uses for sealer. Each sealer is different, but most better sealers are 2k products most commonly urethane sometimes epoxy based. Some can be applied DTM (generally limited to smaller areas only). Many can be flexed to go over flexible plastic parts. If doing completes that are prepped nice and a fairly consistant colour, sealer is not needed. But if there are panels of different colours (grey primer, sanded paint of a differnt colour etc) sealing can be very helpful with coverage/hiding.
[quote=”paintbreaker” post=22489][quote=”Ben” post=22481]I have used them before (wet type and dry type).
It is kinda handy when trying a new product to ensure you are getting proper mil build. It is also good when learning to paint to check the panel when you are done to ensure it is fairly even. Lots of guys tend to put less product on towards the bottom of the vehicle.
If you do run into issues and redos (possibly peeling paint) its a good idea to check it and see if proper build was achieved.[/quote]what the different between wet type and dry type? what is your suggestion?
thanks[/quote]
Dry type measures the paint when the paint is dry. There is the electronic type that uses something like sonar and the magnet type that. Both can only be used on steel parts.
Wet type is used while you are spraying. Basically when you spray, you take the gauge and scrape a test panel (or the masking paper). It is generally a metal scraper with a tapered or stepped edge. The part that is equivalent to the thickness of the paint is how thick the wet film build is. Wet build will be different than dry build as solvents flash off and what not.
The use of each gauge for determining proper build will be dependent on the paint manufacturers specs. Some may want it tested wet, others dry, some both. I am sure you have read tech sheets where it says, for example, “recommended dry film biuld, 2-3 mils, 1-1.5 mils per coat.” This way you can ensure with your gun setup and your technique that you are applying it properly.
And Ding made a good point about excess build and stripping. Most paint manufacturers won’t guarantee the product if the overall build (possibly from previous paint jobs) is exceeded. I was taught that around 12-14 mils you should consider stripping (or the equivilant of 2 complete paint jobs with primer/sealer base and clear.)
can you post a picture of it?
I have used them before (wet type and dry type).
It is kinda handy when trying a new product to ensure you are getting proper mil build. It is also good when learning to paint to check the panel when you are done to ensure it is fairly even. Lots of guys tend to put less product on towards the bottom of the vehicle.
If you do run into issues and redos (possibly peeling paint) its a good idea to check it and see if proper build was achieved.
Should be decent then. If you have the paint code and can check the variants. Envirobase is a great product and easy to use. Just make sure to do some spray outs/let down panel to verify the colour, especially if you haven’t used ehp before.
Good luck!
Waterbourne should be just fine. If you are using a quality product and can get a decent variant you should be fine blending it.
Its kind of a vague question.
It really depends on the product you are using. Some base coats will cover 400…some I have used barely cover 600. Some single stage Polyurethanes I have used would cover 320 just fine.
Most paints say in the tech sheet what grit the substrate should be finished with. Stick to what the tech sheet says, don’t need the scrathces showing up…or sinking in down the road.
[quote=”Wydir” post=22346]its called
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/refinish/en/products/troubleshooting/Pages/Pickling.aspx%5B/quote%5DYep, wrinkling.
If the paint is super fresh it is best to wait before resanding and top coating, especially on un activated and un baked products. And if you spray a product overtop with really aggressive solvents (like most solvent base coats) they just love to bite into the fresh finish and wrinkle it.
If you are now trying to repair a wrinkled paintjob, let it dry a few days then try and sand it. you will need to sand off at least the affected layers. Depending on the severity a little light sanding may work, or you may need to be aggressive, then prime it afterwards. If is is really bad then yes, you will need to strip it off.
In either case, I recommend priming overtop after it is done, or at least sealing it with a good 2k product.