Ben Hart
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when you do clear your hood, try to find some scrap part or good masking paper you can use to fiddle with the settings a bit before you clear the hood. You may be able to dial it in better and get the results you want.
I don’t recommend changing things and going straight to painting the panel without at least making a few test passes first.
Good luck!
looks alright, but rather than polishing the bumper, it’ll probably be a lot quicker to sand it down with 800-1000 and reclear it. You might be able to get better results with your clear gun if you put it on a little wetter and/or try a slower reducer. You may also want to adjust your speed (slower) and gun distance (closer) and ensure your pressure is adequate.
Good luck!
Is there a particular paint line you want in the shop?
If that is the case, then contact the paint manufacturer directly and let them know that you are unable to purchase the products from their suppliers. Maybe they will be able to get someone out to you then.
The DC clears don’t suck, its the doorknobs that spray DC clears then post about it that suck :p
[quote=”ding” post=22316]WTF. The Sherwin clear isnt that great and now BASF and PPG are coming out with copies of it. :compsmash[/quote]
:rofl Thats a great way to put it. I’ve used that SW clear. It is super glossy and looks great (for the 10 minutes its still wet). :blush: 😛
I tried a demo sample of DuPont’s low voc snap dry clear about 18 months ago and it was pretty good, not as fast as the SW but it did hold the gloss well and could be applied nice and smooth. Apparently the stuff I got wasn’t ready for market and they changed it a bit, so I don’t know what the final product is like.
I’ve always liked Devilbiss for their price/performance.
The Teknas I have now are awesome for water base (Enviro and Autowave) I paid about $400
The old Plus was great for medium solids clears and sealers, priced reasonably well around $325
When I was starting out I used a GTi for sealer, base, clear and S.S. probably about $325
For a while I used a starting line gun with Chromabase with great results maybe $125
I used a cheap $50 gun for primer for about 7 years, excellent primer gun. Just no parts avaliable to rebuild it.
Oh, and I have used an old JGA-502 for single stage and primer. If 50 psi and very little transfer effeciency is ok, then it was a good gun 🙂
Then there is SATA, you pay for them but they work well. Currently using a 4000RP for clear excellent just costly, about $650I can’t remember the exact prices,but hopefully my memory is close.
Hello.
Every product is different, so there is no exact answer to your question. The best thing to do is get ahold of the tech sheet for your product and do as it says. There are a lot of variables that can affect the outcome, most importantly are your environment and your skill/technique.
Typically, most clears are applied as 2 coats with a 5-10 minute flash between coats. Generally the 1st being medium wet and the second coat wet. But as I said, get ahold of the tech sheet and go by what is says.
What clear coat are you using? Are you getting the results you want from your application?
Welcome to the site
[quote=”unclejack857″ post=22124]Jack, I was just asking you for an explanation as to why I wouldn’t want a gasless mig. I don’t wannaa chip any slag! Thanks! Jack[/quote]
You won’t get a very clean weld gasless, and you may have issues controlling it. If you are on a budget with the welder and cannot afford gas, just buy panel bonding adhesive and don’t do any structural repairs.
have you used any good polyester putties? That red lacquer stuff skins over quick and shrinks a lot. Its not meant to be spread over large areas like that. It is more for small shallow minor imperfection here and there. It will only lead to a world of trouble for you.
Icing is a great all around putty. If you want something super thin and flowable the U-Pol liquid gold is great. I also like the car system stuff, it is flowable with some build.
I’ve been using it for about 8 or 9 months. Overall it is a great system, easy to use, great colour matches, excellent finishes.
if Charmin is so great, then how come the bears in the commercials always have toilet paper stuck to this ass…I thought those bears switched to Charmin years ago…
[quote=”lild” post=21961]:deadhorse The only time that I did have a ptoblem with a cover not matching with the same paint was with remans. Somethin bout the primer thet use.[/quote]
You do seal all your bumpers, don’t you?
[quote=”lild” post=21950]jay and ben if you guys never had a cover being a shade off like the factory, well then…………………… YA’LL JUST F’IN SUCk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/quote]
I’ve obviously had bumpers not match the body when butting. But when painting the body and bumper, no problems.