Ben Hart
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As Bondo said, some of those are interesting terms…nevertheless, I have heard of some of the problems you are having, but I haven’t had many issues with cromax.
As far as the cratering goes, you may be applying the base too heavy and/or not drying it enough before clearing. 1.5 coats is ideal, but you will need to do more, possibly slightly lighter, coats for some colours.
I have only used one of the new clears once, so I can’t say a whole lot. I would suggest considering your reducer/hardener selection and flash times, possibly adjusting them. I would suggest allowing lots of time for the base to dry/flash, maybe use a slightly slower reducer and maybe allow a little more flash time between coats of clear. Two wet coats of clear (applied properly) shouldn’t cause die back. popping is usually caused by too fast of hardener or applying too much with inadequate flash time. I am not sure what type of coats DuPont recommends with their new clears (2 medium, 2 wet, 1 medium followed by a wet coat etc…) there are a lot of variables to play with…gun/setup, technique, temperature etc…
I like the shot showing the factory braze and all the layers from the 2nd paint job.
Keep up the work with the roof, you’ve come a long way…but still have lots to do. You will probably have to skim the entire roof in order to get it straight afterwards.
[quote=”smooth” post=21265]what paint company makes that base/clear? i have never heard of it, i am asking because it looks very good.[/quote]
PPG…its their standard solvent system, been around for ages.
Good job lild!
these guys have made some good points.
if you haven’t sprayed matte paints before, make sure to practice first. As jim mentioned, it is not forgiving at all, any dry edges, overspray, uneven passes, etc. will show and you will not be able to correct this without repainting. Make sure the product you select is slow enough that you can paint the whole car without issues. If the paint flashes too fast it will probably be nasty.
I agree with jim that SS is probably the best choice. Also, either way you go, you will probably find the matte top coat to stay tacky longer (even if it is baked) so allow a few days before reassembly if possible.
Cool. PPG usually seems to be good at having formulas for less common stuff!
Not sure where the code is, but can you actually get the formula for a Lambo colour?
I found the company’s web site with TDS (tech sheets). [url=http://www.autorefinishes.co.kr/]click here[/url]
It states that the clear only has a 3 hour pot life. That is, once you have mixed in the hardener, your clear must be used within 3 hours to have proper performance. After that 3 hours, any unused mixed clear should be disposed of.
Which hardener did you use with the clear?
[quote=”kuki” post=21175][quote=”Ben” post=21171]If it is 1 month old, with hardener in it, it should be completely hardened (no longer a liquid). If it is still liquidy, there is probably something wrong. In either case, it is garbage.[/quote]
its a nexa system clear.it is still in liqud form (made in korea).i have even used 5 month old clear which i brought from my friend but i could not utilize it at that time.recently i add some hardener(two table spoon) and sprayed it over a door. though it completely dried in two days but i think it has less shine.
in your part of the world you use hplw guns which combat orange peel.but here in pakistan i know painters who use simple conventional gun,with no clear run and it require no sanding.completely smooth. i think you use very powerful hardener.[/quote]Huh. I’ve never heard of clear like that. Maybe you guys have completely different products than we do. Best thing would probably be to check the tech sheet and see what it says in regards to the pot life of the mixed product.
Here, we mostly use either HVLP or RP (compliant guns). They are very good at atomizing the clear coat, and when setup properly allow the clear to go on very smooth. With the exception of some high end resorations and what not, our clears almost never get polished. Orange peel is usually caused by user error rather than equipment, however poor equipment can make it harder to achieve a good finish. As far as hardeners go, yes they are very strong.
[quote=”Offdagun” post=21174]Agreed, but this bloke clearly wants it dead flat. So hard sanding is the only way to go…. Soft sanding is soooo much easier and quicker though :)[/quote]
fair enough :cheers
[quote=”Offdagun” post=21169]By hand using a hard block, soft block, or hand?
Using interface pads with machines, soft blocks by hand or hands won’t get the peel out. [/quote]
huh? It isn’t necessarily the best way yo get peel out, but it certainly will remove peel.
If it is 1 month old, with hardener in it, it should be completely hardened (no longer a liquid). If it is still liquidy, there is probably something wrong. In either case, it is garbage.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=21109][quote=”Ben” post=21100]if you sanded that much and still have peel, I wonder how much material would be left when you are done.
Is it possibly a better idea to respray it?
If you do plan on polishing, you can definately do it with the DA, just be prepared as you will need a lot of paper to do the whole car…and be very careful.[/quote]
listen ta ben he is the site orange peel expert 😛 😛 :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]you’re always so warm and loving, Bondo… :lol1
not that I ever get runs, but…
when I do have to fix them I usually use a regular razor blade then wrap a piece of 3/4″ tape around each end so I can file the run down, but not take anything off around it.
I wonder if this works basically the same.
if you sanded that much and still have peel, I wonder how much material would be left when you are done.
Is it possibly a better idea to respray it?
If you do plan on polishing, you can definately do it with the DA, just be prepared as you will need a lot of paper to do the whole car…and be very careful.
[quote=”alistair” post=21088]OK chaps, I have pretty much decided that this ’87 Cadillac I have here will get a quick and inexpensive repaint in a single stage metallic. No primer, no clear coat, no worries? Right? LOL.
I’ve never used these single stage 2K paints before. I started out with Synthetic Enamel, progressed onto cellulose/lacquer and from there to clear on base.
Any tips, tricks or advice for a home-user with the single stage 2K?
I have a few misconceptions perhaps – one is that as the metallic is in the paint you apply does this mean you can’t colour sand it (like you don’t colour sand a basecoat)?
Also any tips about best prep for the substrate before spraying it would be welcome.
Thanks in advance guys.[/quote]
Single stage is generally pretty easy to apply. Metallic single stage can be a little tricky. The issue is that you need to spray the product wet enough to get a smooth glossy finish, but also control the metallics so as not to mottle them or get tiger stripes. Because of the metallics you do not want to do much (if any) sanding/polishing afterwards. A little denibbing here or there is ok, but aggressive sanding is not a good idea. I have sprayed a lot of metallic single stage (acrylic urethane, polyurethane, acrylic enamel and alkyd enamel). Most of which with very good results. Golds and silvers probably aren’t a great idea…but darker metallic colours generally work well.
As far as prep goes, you said you have a good 2k (iso-cyanide free) primer to use? Prep the primer according to the tech sheet. If there isn’t much bodywork, you are probably good to block it with 320-400 and finish around 500 for the single stage (again, check the sheet for the product you are using). If you are sanding wet, I would probably finish with 600. Whatever brand you use, I would recommend using a good quality acrylic urethane (like PPG Concept).
I have sprayed some old BASF synthetic enamel and found it wasn’t too different from spraying acrylic enamel (which isn’t much different than spraying acrylic urethane). I wouldn’t worry about it too much, just read the tech sheets and follow the directions.