Ben Hart
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Welcome to the site
It is pretty simple. You can take the 666 and spray a medium-wet coat on the panel either to the edge or a little ways past where you will be blending your furthest coat. The 666 can be sprayed as is or reduced with the WB activator (up to 30%”ish”). Once it has dired/flashed you spray your base/blend as usual. The 666 is basically just clear base coat. You can also add more of the 666 to your base to make it more transparent in your later coats to aid with blending.
I think Ryan mentioned before about using it similarly to DuPont as well, where you spray your base, then spray a coat of the 666 over it to help melt in the overspray of your blend.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=21076]The Tekna works better for me than the Supernova and the Sata HC. Some things that work well for me are to reduce tough colors no less than 35% and usually around 40% if it’s warmer. I will go higher if needed. First coat goes on wet. Don’t just stop the color either. Make sure to pull the gun away and not leave a abrupt stopping point. Second coat goes on around 75% of the first. I will flick my wrist without triggering off the gun for my blend. I will put a 3rd maybe 40% wet coat on before my control coat if the color has any mottle in it. It doesn’t take much paint. Then for my control coat I will drop my gun pressure to 18-19 psi and back up and give it a nice even coat. Not wet but not dry. Think of a peppered look.
I fought mottle on tough colors for awhile with the Sata HC. Steve Baran recommended the Tekna to me and gave me these pointers and honestly I have almost no trouble anymore.[/quote]
I’ve been spraying Autowave for about 6 months now (with the Tekna, same setup). I had the same issues and first, but with a little fine tuning they virtually are non-existant now. I more or less do as Ryan does. 1 wet coat, 2nd coat a little less wet 3rd coat (if needed) a little less wet. The drop coat goes on just as he said, kind of sandy looking. If you watch it carefully though, you notice it isn’t “dry”. The drop coat is done at about 12″ gun distance. I was originally dropping my gun pressure to 19 PSI. The rep told me not to bother. Now I keep my pressure the up on the drop coat. Looking at my older and newer spray out cards of the same colour, there doesn’t seem to be any difference.
When I spray, I spray at 24 PSI. As Ryan said as well, fan the gun well on the blends (I am sure you are doing this)…whatever blending method works for you. I highly recommend using the 666/wetbed.
Jayson M mentioned to me the importance of getting each coat right (getting the 1st one nice and wet, second a little less wet etc) in metallic control. If these aren’t followed from the first coat, then the drop coat won’t take care of your issues you will have by that point.
I haven’t had any issue with mottling or striping in severl months. Just sprayed a gold Buick yesterday and it came out excellent.
Good luck! :cheers
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=21045][quote=”Jayson M” post=21044]I figured as much….be careful with your decision,you will find that kind of thing in every shop no matter how big or small.Talk to your boss first and test the water,let him know your thoughts and maybe things can change…going to work at the shop down the road isn’t always the answer(been there done that) sometimes the grass isn’t always greener on the other side 😉 Good luck and keep us posted on your decision.[/quote]
thats some good advice ;)[/quote]If only we could all work for Bondo… :whistle:
If Nexa is basically identical to the Envirobase, then I would mostly say good things about it. Not all that different from the Autowave. Both bases have good matches, are easy to spray, relatively fast, and easy to blend. I did find metallic control a hair easier with the PPG, but once I got use to the Autowave I no longer had any issues with mottling.
And besides, its not like you’re going to be using Martin Senour like some of the other hillbillies on here :p
looks good. Those are some nice easy ones to do (when you aren’t dealing with the texture and fog lamp issues).
As far as spraying inside odd places, there are a few things that can help. I usually spray the edges first then the face. When there are openings, I spray from the back of the bumper to get into them better. From the front, I will spray into them very carefully, triggering the gun to control volume and watching gun distance. I make sure to get just enough material in there (so you don’t run it), a hair on the dry/peely side. Then when you make your passes over the front of the bumper, the extra product that sprays in there should be enough to finish the job (like allowing the clear to lay down smooth and wet, without running). If you are really slow and use faster products you may have an issue keeping the clear wet/open enough to flow out nicely in those areas.
It takes some practice, but once you figure it out, it isn’t too bad at all.
Good luck![quote=”alistair” post=21003]
Its an ’87 Cadillac not a ’57 or a ’07 so there is a diminishing returns thing to take into account.
[/quote]I suppose. Is the car even worth your time and materials, then?
I’ve done a little bit with gel coat. Never a spot repair, however. Just resprayed the entire part.
I am curious if you would be able to match the colour/gloss properly, though.
so you will be priming it in the morning…letting it dry then sanding it later on, then painting it? Too much for one day, you are allowing yourself too much room for problems.
If it is a job worth doing, it is worth doing right. Personally I would rather buy the car as is, then have to deal with another rushed paint job on it. I know you want to use the 1k clear, but do you really want to sell a car like that?
[quote=”bobwires” post=20972]Thanks Jimmo
Has anybody seen many colors of the stuff? 3m carbon wrap is very common, but I’ve been looking at all the metallic colors and whatnot. Some pretty cool high gloss solid colors as well.[/quote]
Last year I got to sit in on a demo of the wrap. 3M was putting on a 3 day class for the professional film applying people (is there even a proper term for what they do) at the local trade school and I was invited to watch part of it for a few hours.
They had printed some multi-coloured crazy looking graphics and wrapped a small truck with it. Looks like anyone could apply it, just need a little practice and a few finessing techniques to do it well.
The gloss level is not anywhere near automotive paint and then you also get into overlaps and cutting around parts (trim, name plates etc). From 10+ feet away it looks good.
The 3M guy there said that it would last about 5 years (and still be relatively easy to remove at that point). The intention with the product is not to replace paint, just to have a different way for companies to advertise on their vehicles (lease vehicles being a key target).
Welcome to the site.
The answer to that question depends. If the colour can me matched well enough and/or the owner doesn’t mind if the colour is mismatched a bit than the answer is no…
Otherwise, it is typical to blend into adjacent panels, especially on tougher colours (like silver). Silvers usually do not butt match very well. The best thing to do is blend the colour into the adjacent panel then clear coat the entire panel
looks good.
We do use aerosol primer now and then (mostly for doing “free” repairs and odd things). Does work well for its intended purpose…
[quote=”Wydir” post=20880]aircraft stripper is a pain in most cases. I would do as you said and DA the car down. I see you have a bit of surface rust to contend with also , As for the paint to use if its going to be a driver and a solid color easiest thing to do would be to use a single stage. find out what your local Paint store deals with for paint , since you have some DP90 I would guess it a PPG jobber close by maybe you could ask them about some PPG Concept paint this is there single stage line good stuff.
here is a link for the Concept Line (it the Tech sheet for it)
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileID=0e8760ec-b10c-458a-8369-1d6aac087000%5B/quote%5DI would agree. The DA will help with the rust, but you may need to be a little more aggressive to get it all. As far as paint, I highly suggest single stage too (especially for a complete). Concept is a very high quality product and is very easy to apply (I find it gives a good glossy finish and is hard to run). You may want to use the slowest reducer and activator as the concept does seem to be a little fast (in my opinion).
[quote=”getzy” post=20830]hows it going? I just found this place the other day. Seems like a nice forum so far. Im 25 and been painting since high school and been in shops for about 7 years. Worked at a freightliner dealership for about 4 1/2 years and there was no money and sprayin imron is no fun. Ive went back to cars and ive been at my current place for over a year. Ive never worked in a legit collision shop so ive got some questions. I hear most painters doin around 70-100 hours a week. For the guys here that do this how many actual hours are you working a week?? I feel like im getting the shaft bc i paint about 3-4 cars a day. Not the whole car of course but bumpers and panels/blends, just normal collision painting. im gettin paid hourly and i know the job is paying more than 8 hours of work. I painted the whole side of a 04 duramax a week or two ago and it paid 18 or 20 hours and i did it in 12 and got paid for 12. We prolly do about 10-15 cars a week. Do other collision shops still pay hourly? How do your bonuses work if there is one?[/quote]
If you get paid hourly, then don’t worry about it too much. Most independent shops pay hourly, and generally dealerships and some larger independent shops pay flat rate. Bonuses (if any) vary widely.
As far as production goes, it varies depending on skill, shop/equipment and how well the sheets are written. Working a 40 hour week I would expect any experienced person to do 60 hours of work (assuming the shop is busy enough etc.). Some people can manage as much as 120 hours in a 40 hour week.
The best way to not be upset about what you make is to not worry about what others are (or aren’t) making.
If you aren’t happy, talk to your boss nicely and see what arrangement you can make. Telling your boss what others make elsewhere is likely to just piss him off and be counterproductive to your efforts.
[quote=”5LEater” post=20826]Ive always thought 1500 to 3000 is a bit of a big jump up the grits, Im sure trizact makes 2000, but i rarely see people use it, usually go right from 1500 to 3000. I dont do much polishing anymore, myself.
Just a thought[/quote]We recently started using the SIA foam backed paper (like trizact). We use 2000 then 3000. Like Jim C says, you need to change them a little more often, then they work great.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=20795]wow dag ur pics never cease to amaze me :cheers :cheers thanks for posting em ;)[/quote]
Agreed!
Always impresses me and makes me really appreciate how good we have it here! :rock
How’s the new paint booth coming along?