Ben Hart
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[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20105]I use a Tekna with a 7E7 for Autowave right now. I am around 16-22 psi, rarely 16 though. Works great. I have used it for clear but find it works better with a 1.3 at around 27-30 psi for Superior. It is slower for clear than a RP.
I’m with Jayson, I’m not sure what you mean by 45 psi at the gun and 19 to 22? One sound low and the other sounds really high.[/quote]
I’m using the same for autowave…7E7, 1.4. Spraying at 24 PSI and 19 PSI for drop coat. I’ve used the 1.3 for clear on a couple jobs just fine…not enough to give a real opinion, though.
Sounds like some good advice so far.
Have you tried adjusting your air pressure to get them metallics laying a little differently?
[quote=”wambam” post=20061]thank you for your replies
Andy T, i will find out the type of debeer clear it is as well as the hardener and reducer.Ben, when the booth is working fine, most of the times i do get ok results, when i dont get runs or sags the overall finish comes out with a little bit too much orange peel i dint know why.
this week i am trying out my iwata supernova with a different clear (protec). Dont know if you guys heard of this clear before.
i will let you know how i go with it.[/quote]
If they are not normally coming out how you want, you should definitely switch things up and make it work for you. What temp is the booth normally? When it failed, how cool did it get in there?
[quote=”Andy T” post=20036]I think you’ve answered your own question really – three times is more than a coincidence 😉
But yes, a large drop in temperature can make a great difference, hence why paint manufacturers make different reducers/thinners for different temp ranges.
Imagine you’re putting the clear on, and the temp suddenly drops part way through. The atomised droplets coming from your gun will now be a lot “wetter” as the solvents in them won’t have evaporated as much in their journey from gun to panel. Then once they hit the panel, the solvents will take longer to flash, leaving the film of clear wetter for longer, so it will flow much more, making it more prone to sagging and running. All you can do in such a situation is compensate by putting less on, either by moving your arm faster or pulling away a little and reducing overlaps. Neither is ideal though, and keeping a roughly even temperature throughout the job is really a priority. Spraying at a low temp without the burner is probably better than having it cut off part way through.
Which DeBeer clear are you using by the way? And which hardener & reducer?[/quote]
Exactly. All you can do is adjust your technique, try differnet products (clear, hardener, reducer maybe accelerator). You could also try using a different gun or fluid tip set too.
Most importantly, get the booth repaired properly…obviously. When the temperature is good, do you typically get consistently good results?
Holy fawk…thats more wetsanding and polishing than I do it a year!
Looks great though!
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20003][quote=”jim c” post=20002]since you have sikkens in your area, try the antistatic cleaner. its an alcohol based final wipe. you can sub for your waterborne stuff. its extremely fast, super strong and flashes completely. it basically does what a solvent and waterbased cleaner does all in one. you cant wipe basecoat itself down with it though…not that you should need to. the stuff is actually made by henkel and akzo relabels it. rm has it as well. same stuff but relabeled and called 903.[/quote]
I think henkel is who makes the etch wipes and pen Akzo has also. The antistatic works very good, but you have to be careful as it is some really strong shit. If you have cut throughs it can swell the undercoats some. It will also eat off some factory primers on bumpers and such.[/quote]
Yep.
It is very good stuff…just be cautious with what you are wiping with it. I too have had it dissolve some primer on (GM) bumpers (not often though).
We use the anti-static wipe, the M600 surface cleaner and have some isopropanol around.[quote=”lild” post=19992]i like useing microfibre cloths seem to work real nice. and dang rat, who has 30 mins. to wait for w&g to dry? lol.
i agree with rat, i have notice that if my towels are soaked from excessive use, that i’m basically put on too much cleaner, and it’s not flashed off enought, and too much will cause fish eyes.
with the wb cleaner try wipeing in one direction, that could help.
as for the detail shop if you think that is causeing some problems, you could go down and explain to them what there products could be doing to you, 1/2 block is a bit far, but it’s possible, and ask them to switch to a wb silicone tire dressing. as a matter of fact you could get some give it to them and ask them to use it, as a peace offering. they refuse, you buy a can of paint striper and start spraying the cars they detail.[/quote]As far as allowing it to flash goes, I usually turn the booth on, blow everything, then wipe with solvent cleaner and/or water based cleaner. Then I leave the booth and go mix my paint/sealer etc while its flashing…this usually nets me some decent flash time
Looks good.
My only question is why you would bother clearing it at all?
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19913][quote=”5LEater” post=19911][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19879]Water is more easily absorbed by the body.
To be honest all of this stuff is extremely harmful to the body. Fresh air should be used for any of it.[/quote]
man I wish i had fresh air, the booth I use has no fresh air and gets pretty foggy when im clearing, the thing is a pure cancer box man. Ive also been feeling quite sick by the end of the day (headache, stomach discomfort) if I breathe in the smallest ammount of anything containing isocyantes it seems. The stuff never used to bother me, and now it seems I can barely work out a full day now.. even when wearing my respirator all day.[/quote]
Dude, that’s some serious shit. You need to get checked by a doc for sensitivity.
You could change filters every hour and it won’t help. You need fresh air. Systems can be put together for not a lot of money.
Painting is not all that bad if you take the precautions.[/quote]
I don’t know about where you are, but here it is required by law that your employer has a fresh air system installed/working. I’d definitely want to see a Doctor ASAP. Killing yourself isn’t worth it.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19908]I am not familiar with Onyx but if it were me I would rebase and blend as needed. I can see you having an issue with sanding it and just putting orientation coats on. I would treat it the same as if primer were underneath.[/quote]
I would tend to agree. Sometimes mottling can be from your 1st coat, and the subsequent coats are unable to correct it. Re-base over it and try again. Can you figure out what you did to cause the mottling, and correct that on this application?
Looks great, especially considering what you had to work with.
[quote=”Wydir” post=19819]I use Fast orange hand cleaner works good no problems yet with it ( I keep my Cherry Blossom and Alomond soap at home hahaha )
To tell you the truth tho, I have never heard of anyone having these kinds of problems. Im sure its out there, but I have no experience with it.[/quote]
What? No frilly smelling soaps at work? But I like my hands to smell like lavender while I’m smearing bondo on a fender. 😛
I’ve heard of similar issues, but haven’t experienced any such problems. If your environment is fairly clean, you use gloves a paint suit and remember to use wax and grease remover, you probably won’t have issues.
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=19805][quote=”Stone” post=19781]take wheels off or let the air out of the tires …. I often do the roof first by it self … then mask it and do the sides , on bigger rigs[/quote]
Pretty much sums it up. I’m 5,5 and I learned the hard way to do the roofs of larger pickups separate. I use a step ladder and have to learn on the vehicle to reach the middle of the 3500’s[/quote]
I do them separate as well. Bag the car and use a ladder. Move the ladder around as needed and lean on the side the best I can to get the centre. Take your time so you don’t fall or drop anything (ie: airhose) into the paint.
Looks good lild.
Do you mostly get insurance work? Do you guys not usually get time to R&I everything (bumpers,tail lights etc)?
Looks great…probably too good for that old civic