Ben Hart
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[quote=”lild” post=19686][quote=”Papipab” post=19664]Looks Good. How did you prep the blends?[/quote]thanks. what i like to do is go over my blend area with 1000 grit, not to slick it up but mainly to clean it well. then follow with light presure, a carbo red scotch pad with some 3m scuff it paste. then we hit the car with a brush and wash it. well part of it. ok, so we mist the dang thang.[/quote]
Have you ever used the Presta paste? It is a little faster/more aggressive than the 3M paste (but not so aggressive that clear won’t fill in the scratches…probably equivalent to 800 or finer). Only issue I have with it, is that it is a little sticky, so you need to make sure you wash it off well afterward.
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=19663][quote=”Ben” post=19662]Looks good…PBJ?
Are you using the 700/750 clears?[/quote]
Code PBS (now that i think of it, it might also be PBJ, I remember it having like 4 different codes on the cpu)
I sometimes use the 750 for completes but I used DC4010 on this one because I figured the cab was small enough to get away with it. I use that most of the time. It’s a nice clear IMO. The 700/750’s dry painfully slow without a bake cycle even with the accelerator. not to mention the 750 is suppose to be left to dry overnight. Screw that. Overall I didn’t like those clears appearance unless you reduce them 10%. If you spray them per the tech sheet they look thick and nasty.[/quote]
Which clear did you use on the ’69?
I found the same thing with the 700/750. Had to reduce it 5-10% and it was slow. Even after baking you needed parts to dry overnight before handling them much/installing. It was too slow for me and I had issues with solvent pop and I seemed to like to run it.:blush: Otherwise, I could get it to lay down like glass…:lol1
Looks good…PBJ?
Are you using the 700/750 clears?
Looks great. I love that colour, I am sure the truck will look awesome when it is done!
What paint did you use?
[quote=”SKAutomotive” post=19629]I am going out on a limb here, but something tells me you aren’t talking about the stuff in a spray can?[/quote]
No offense…but if you have to ask that, then this repair may not be for you. Rust repairs done improperly will not fix the issue, and in some cases will only make it worse (opening it up and making it more susceptible to more issue).
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19594]SOOO you don’t blow anything off,don’t use wax and grease remover or waterborne cleaner,and endust is the magic cure…..give me a break :rofl :rofl I call Bullshit on that one…sorry[/quote]
I didn’t do a final tack on one of my jobs one day!
After hosing on the sealer/base/clear I was able to bury most of it…and the hour I spent wet sanding and polishing took care of the last of it… :S
I also have a hard time believing you can get a perfectly clean job otherwise…
Show off…
Looks great Jayson! Nice and clean!
I used to use the panel beater there, but it didn’t put out as much heat.
You will probably be ok, and if you are doing a repair at the front there is the cross member there. But as with anything, when in doubt, do it the safest way.
[quote=”ding” post=19574]Castrol :lol1 :lol1
Suprised he even offers lubrication to his customers :rofl :rofl[/quote]Its for him…he needs to lube up before taking it from the insurance companies:rofl
Looks good…just don’t let my boss know how good you can make crappy parts look 😛
Looks good…just don’t let my boss know how well you can make crappy parts look
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=19555]shhhhh i think if i put an acura emblem on it he wont know the difference:silly: :silly: :silly: if he dont make it maybey i could get ya ta swing by:weights :weights :weights[/quote]
Pay for the trip down there and find something to keep my wife busy and I am sure I could get it back together for you…
Do you use the SMC resin on them?
Thats the kind of $hit work they had me do when I was an apprentice. Have fun!
Is it the sand scratches that aren’t quite polished out or marks/swirl marks from the compound?
As MoCoke said, if they are still sanding scratches you need to keep compounding somewhat agressively. If they are swirl marks, you need to move up to the next finer compound/polish.
What type of polisher are you using (and at what speed). What kind of pad?
Well, generally faster clears are better for non-bake conditions since they dry faster at air temperature (than baking clears), and therefore get out of dust quicker. If you have no issues, there is probably no need to switch.
Now, a spot clear is usually recommended for up to 1 panel. If you spray more than 1 panel it may be too fast for you. Also, most spot clears don’t have quite as nice a finish. Some die off a little, others have a little less depth to them.
You can still get a great finish with sop clears, but you need to stick to the intended uses (ie: small jobs and follow the tech sheet, usually short flash times).