Ben Hart
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This is the latest in fresh air equipment:
[img]http://www.siebegorman.net/wp-content/gallery/siebe-gorman-diving-helmets/FULL_02.jpg[/img]The key is to have someone reliable pumping the air in. :lol1
I personally have the Devilbiss hood. It is great for the price. If you can spend the extra to buy the SATA you will probably be happier with that.
I’m confused, where’s the fiberglass matting…or aluminum tape and bondo? :p
Looks like a real nice clean fix! :cheers
You aren’t being all that specific. 2 pack or 2k products are products that need a seperate hardener/activator added to them. Acrylic refers to a part of the resin that is found in many different products. I am assuming you are referring to Acrylic Urethane Single Stage (no clear coat). Acrylic can be 1K Acrylic Lacquer, 1k or 2k acrylic enamel, 2k acrylic urethane etc… 2k products are the most durable. 1k products are cheaper (they are old out dated technology and not that common).
The best product is the one that is in your price range and works best for you. Are you looking to spend some money or be as economical as possible. What sort of colour or colours are you looking to paint? What experience do you have with painting? What are you painting over (old paint, sealer, bare metal, etc)?
[quote=”svldvc” post=19416]Also….can you guys PLEEEZE give me a list of all the best compatible products to you?
What do you guys use?
What brand and type of:
PRIMER?
SEALER?
BASECOAT?
CLEARCOAT?
BLENDER?Now I learned from you that DuPont is one of the WORST Basecoats to use…Thank You for teaching me that!
Please let me know what is the best option to use regarding solvents?
Thanks in advance..[/quote]Wow. Sounds like you’ve gotten a lot of good advice. As mentioned, DuPont is not a bad product, everyone has their prefrence, all products have their pros and cons. Now you just need to learn to use DuPont a little better or find the product that works best for you.
I concur that stripping tour paint is a great start, and that painting the entire panel is the right thing to do. Also as mentioned, removing the tail lamp and removing or dropping the corner of the rear bumper will make the job easier and allow you to prep better around the edges.
You may want to stick with DuPont since you have the products. The best thing to do is stick with one brand and use the appropriate system with it (ie: Chroma Seal, Chroma Base, Chroma Clear). Which clear are you using? The activator for the ChromaClear is the same activator for Chromabase (7775S or12305S), if you have it, use it in your base. The HC-7776S Snap Dry clear is the fastest and possibly easiest clear. It is good in non-ideal spraying conditions, the only downfall is that its finish is not as good as the other clears and may be a little too fast for you. The nice thing with this clear is it shares the hardener with the base coat and it can be mixed with the slow G2-7779S clear in any ratio to obtain a clear that will suit your speed and conditions. The more of the G2-7779S you use, the better the finish, but the dry and flash times will be slower.
Just some points to ponder. If you want to stick with DuPont, they have a lot of products to offer and can get you the result you want.
[quote=”IAMRICO” post=19422]Just to give you guys an update, I told Progressive that I wasn’t going to repair it and that if they didn’t want to replace it I was going to contact the customer and let him know what was going on. After a short argument with the adjuster and then his manager :chair they finally agreed that it needed to be replaced.
It’s crazy how many corners the insurance company wants to cut on repairs. If the vehicle had been steered to a DRP shop like they initially tried to do, the repair would have been done incorrectly and the customer would have had no idea…:unsure:[/quote]
Well…I’ve work and have worked in DRP shops, as far as quality goes, it has more to do with the shop itself. I know I/we have pissed off a few companies/adjusters before by refusing to repair certain things, even if it may affect the DRP relationship. Most, however, and easy going.
The topic of DRP shops is a very interesting one indeed…
[quote=”ding” post=19393]could be either case. but i’d have to lean towards going with Joe on this one. If he had cut throughs the many many coats of dry mist paint would have covered them up and help protect them. his application was all wrong and dupount is pretty finicky when it comes to recoating.[/quote]
Sounds like the right possibilities here…
Chromabase should be applied medium to medium wet (as mentioned). The strong solvents in it love to attack whatever they can, so be cautious (follow the directions in the tech sheets). If you are blending the base and want to fade it out well, you can replace the base maker with the 69301S basecoat blender.
As per the tech sheets, Apply 2 – 3 medium coats until hiding and color match are achieved.
Read the tech sheet: [url=http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/H-19317_ChromaBaseBC.pdf]ChromaBase[/url]
Fight with them to replace it, if that is the case.
If you aren’t comfortable repairing something, then you shouldn’t. I’ve never heard of anyone wanting a composite rad support repaired, that is just odd.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19381]No but I have just heard what Ryan has said about them.But I’m no stranger to devilbiss,had a JGA,MBC, GFG-517,GTI,and a plus over the years.I doubt it is better than my sata rp,3000rp,4000rp or 3000hvlp.But I’m interested in trying one with a 1.4 or 1.5 for autowave just for kicks.;)[/quote]
I wouldn’t give up a good SATA for a Tekna. The Tekna is a good gun, and for someone like myself who doesn’t want to pony up all the $$$ for a SATA, it is a great alternative. Now if Devilbiss follows SATAs foot steps and eventually fine tunes the Tekna a little more, they could become very competitive.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19376]Nice work Darren,those teknas look interesting 😉 :kofee Man I just don’t get how you guys think that is a big car,you should see some of the junk in our shop :deadhorse :deadhorse :deadhorse[/quote]
Have you used a Tekna much or at all Jayson?
[quote=”gnarly” post=19347][quote=”Ben” post=19183][quote=”gnarly” post=19157][quote=”Ben” post=19071][quote=”MoCoke” post=19070]it seems like they are actually a step ahead now based on their air bake clear, spreadable primer, etc. i used the ultra base for a few jobs and it covered pretty well but maybe after 4-5 coats. :chair besides that the price is ridiculously high for it.[/quote]
I’ve used some Ultra 7000 and a little of the waterborne. SW has a few really good things…the clear is fast, most products have flex additive already in it etc…but overall, I agree with MoCoke, it is overpriced for what it is.
You are currently with Sikkens? WHat don’t you like about it? Up here (where basically everyone is using waterborne)Sikkens is considered one of the best systems.[/quote]
I like Sikkens, and I’m on the west coast of Canada so ditto with the compliant products. It’s good, but unfortunately we are stuck with a crossdraft booth still. It’s pretty tough being productive in the cool weather without an air makeup using waterbourne (especially for 3+ panels). I’ve been with Sikkens for 8 years so I don’t know where it stands relative to the others, except that Sikkens is one of the most expensive paint lines. Glad to hear that it’s considered one of the best waterbase out there (what aspects?)
There is talk of compliant solvent coming in soon with Sherwin (ATX), and I’m pretty curious about it. I’ve tried the compliant Omni, which doesn’t cut it (no chips). A jobber dropped off some Transtar / NoMix to try but I’ve never even heard of them.
Who knows with the industry the way it is, I wouldn’t be surprised if all the brands bring out a compliant solvent line sooner than later. Cash grab.
I loved ACIII with XP and rapid act. I’m using the Lesonal ProAir LV which is even better than Energy Pro250 for our booth.[/quote]
Where on the west coast are you?
There are several low VOC solvent base. Most are lower end products, so colour match likely isn’t the best. I believe Stone is using RM solvent with good success.
The Autowave is fast, easy to use and has good colour matches. The AWX I found to be slower, more transparent, required work to control solvents and colour matches weren’t great (although I am sure they are building their formula library as time goes on).
PPGs enviro base is a very fast base. Possibly the fastest drying base in my opinion. It is very similar to Autowave…[/quote]
I’m near Vancouver. Thanks for all your inputs about SW, I think I’ll keep our Autowave but I’ll trial SW low VOC solvent. I’ve tried OMNI, it’s pretty hit and miss. Pretty funny though it works pretty well on Toyota 1F7, go figure??? HAHAHA. Pretty tough colour in most brands i’m sure. I got the local PPG rep to take away our old Autobase+ for an OMNI system. Yes some of the matches are horrible.[/quote]
So that’s how to match 1F7… :lol1
Sounds like you made a good choice. Try the SW, and let us know how it works. I’ve seen a few jobs done with it, should be one of the better low VOC solvent base coats from what I understand.Looks good.
I did a front end on one recently…rad support, fender, hood etc…all aftermarket junk. Taking the handle out was probably the easiest part :lol1
[quote=”finishliner” post=19266]There is also an economically priced polyurethane in the light industrial brand that PPG sells cheaper than Omni but much better.[/quote]
There is Delfleet evolution (their best). Delfleet essential (similar, but a little cheaper) and CPC (comercial performance coating). The CPC is inexpensive and pretty durable.
So whats the plan for the truck? Is it your own, or are you selling it?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19200]Don’t bake energy pro for more than 20 mins at 120F,you are very lucky :clappy Also when using accelerator lv and fast reducer in superior 250 your bake time will be reduced.When using energy pro with superior 250 hardener mix it at the 3:1:1 ratio,don’t ask me how I know:P[/quote]
If I use the full amount of accelerator 5-10 minutes less on the bake cycle seems to work well
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19199]When you are doing a blend the correct way is to apply your first coat of clear just past your blend.Then apply your second coat over the complete panel.The best way to describe it is like a swimming pool,the deep end looks like a different color compared to the shallow end,so the more clear you put on can change the color.Every course I have been to teaches this,but I very rarely do it :p[/quote]
Thats what I’ve been taught too, but never really done it. When we were using medium solids clears, I often wondered/worried if there would be enough mil build of clear in that one coat to give proper durability/UV protection down the road, and not delaminate. I’d rather risk the odd job being a little off then risk having a product that isn’t durable.