Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I’ve used the 3M paper, and also agree that it is longer lasting. Did a comparison one day between the new Clean sand, the old Purple 3M and Norton. Norton had the shortest life, the clean sand the longest.
The shop I am at now uses Carbo. It is good enough. The 3M is good, but I wouldn’t say that I miss it…
Most fleet vehicles use Polyurethane like Imron or Delfleet. Typically single stage or sometimes base clear. Polyurethanes are very hard/durable so they are perfect for fleet. Note to read the tech sheet and keep in mind that most are slow drying (you may want a little accelerator depending on your painting style and shop conditions).
If you want to be more economical you can use a cheap single stage like Nason, Omni, Limco etc. Personally I would go with Imron 5000 Single stage. It isn;t too expensive, its relatively easy to use, dries to a good shine and is very durable when cured.
[quote=”ding” post=18761]dont worry about the mottling issue ben. After all you are painting GMs now :whistle:[/quote]
My thoughts exactly…:rofl
[quote=”Jayson M” post=18752]Application course teaches 30% for difficult metallics and pearls,or up to 50% in the summer.It would be extremely difficult to spray autowave with a 1.3.With the gun he is using it reccomends a 1.4 or 1.5,sata 3000hvlp with a 1.4HC works the best.When it comes to colors containing 888C 888DC 888EC it would be difficult if not impossible to not get a little mottling with a 1.3.Also dropping your pressure 5 psi or so for your control coat with full trigger pull and minimum 12-14 inches from surface and slow passes(but not to slow) will help.For your control coat you need big droplets and you want it to look like the surface is being peppered or rain hitting a sandy beach if that makes sense.Your first coat needs to be wet enough for the metallics to be swimming,second coat is medium wet,then your drop coat.Believe it or not your first coat is just as important for laying out the metallics as your drop coat.For what he has to work with and no help I think Benny is doing a good job,he just has to get in his groove.
Also Ben when you take out your intake filters and exhaust filters turn on the booth,close the doors and Blow the snot out of the intake ducting,and make sure the pit is not full of dirt/overspray dust.Also check you exhaust stack and fan,it might need a good scrape and clean.After this is done it will make a huge improvement in air movement and flash time.If that is an old devilbiss concept I’m sure there are intake filters on the airmake up unit,don’t forget those too.[/quote]Thanks Jayson… :teach
I’ve been reducing the metallics 20-30% (20 % to start, then adding another 10% if I feel it needs to be a little wetter). My first coat has been going on wet (letting the metallics float), the second coat that is a little less wet seems to even the metallics out well. The control coat/drop coat I’ve been reducing my pressure and backing off…slow passes, about 75% overlap and letting it go on “sandy”. The mottling isn’t too bad. That gold Toyota came out really well…but I did reduce that one quite a bit. I need to hone in on the right spray pressure. I’ve been spraying at 22-24 PSI, then dropping to 18-19 for the control coat. I am thinking that is a little too low for the control coat. I am definitely seeing how over-atomizing the metallics causes them to lay down inconsistently. Now that there are new booth lights, the jobs shouldn’t look so “shadowy” in the booth. Any of the mottling I’ve had is not noticeable in the natural light (outside) so that’s not too bad at all. The customers and my boss all seem happy…colours are good and no redo’s so far! :rock
As for the booth, we will get the pressure washer and clean the pit out well. The intake fan was recently serviced and was supposed to have been cleaned. Will definitely blow out the intake area (hopefully there aren’t too many surprises in there). The booth is balancing very well and seems to be exchanging air at a good rate, so I have a feeling it is probably not too cruddy. The entire thing was apparently cleaned well about 8-12 months ago.
the thought of all that sanding is making me tired…
looks like its coming along well!
[quote=”candyman” post=18746]Thanx,but No bags over here,strictly hydraulics ,bags are for fags…..haha![/quote]
bags are for fags…:rofl
[quote=”ding” post=18729]looking good Ben. How’s that autowave treating you. Change them filters yet[/quote]
The autowave is working well. Only issue is a little mottling on the odd job (horizontal hoods)…need to work on that and I think I will take Jaysons advice and get a bigger fluid tip for the gun. Otherwise the system is great, all the products are straight forward and user friendly. :cheers
The filters aren’t changed yet, but we have them at the shop…just put in new bulbs. Need to pressure wash it and re-spray the booth coating.
[quote]Looking at the work you’re turning out, I don’t really think your shop needs to find a painter[/quote]
Thanks. The hours are working out well and we aren’t busy to the point of needing another person, so I am happy as it is. 😉
Nice pics…bagged Cadillacs aren’t something I prefer, but your work is excellent nonethelss. Nice work with the Kandy colours and flakes.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=18721][quote=”TheDoctor” post=18720]Hammer and Dolly Set….do you know how many things you can do with that?
– Take dents out.
– use as a flat surface for sanding.
– encourage things to move when they otherwise would not.
– create center punch guide holes for drilling out plug welds.
– open the evercoat, paint, primer, sealer, clear, or activator can.
– bend fabricated metal into the proper curvature to plug a hole (that’s right, Doc has no English:wheel).
– bend ninety degree angles in sheet metal.
– knock of weld slag (yes, Doc only has a flux core welder).
– hit a panel to listen for Bond (sorry, filler, no pun intended to Mr. Bondomerchent)
– crush beer cans (even though I don’t drink, I do recycle).
– prop up the trunk lid while you fit the bumper cover properly (close for alignment).
– knock the tie rod end out of the ball joint (did I say that, don’t do that, use a for or a puller).
– ok, that’s enough.[/quote]
jeez an i always just used my claw hammer an a nice flat rock…..hey doc i ever show ya my horsecock:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]Geez Bondo, keep it in your pants…err, tool box.
Thanks Jimmo!
[quote=”candyman” post=18595]Just curious as to what the average rate of pay is for a qualified painter is in Manitoba Canada,been in the trade for a few years now,flat rate for the past 3 years,wondering what or if there is a set rate.[/quote]
There is a government site that shows average pay ranges in different provinces for specific jobs. I don’t have it off hand, however. But you are probably going to find the average between $18-30…with somewhere around the middle being average. Are you in Winnipeg or a smaller community?
Looks good Bondo…
$250 at our shop would cover the materials and a wash….
I work flat rate, if the part is damaged I get paid or I refuse the part. If the what the manager does to make it happen is his business…but generally the parts are sold at a price reasonable to its condition, the insurance company pays for a good clean part.
If the company likes screwing them selves, then there are definitely some issues
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=18510]Can superior 250 or the energy pro be used over solvent?[/quote]
The Superior says on the can for autowave only (not go over solvent). I assume the energy pro is the same.
I’ve bonded holes closed like that many time (usually holes from accessories that were removed). But I’ve never done one that was all that visible/had to look perfect. I would agree that if you want a perfect finish you are better of welding.
As far as the adhesive goes, it should be applied to bare metal for optimal adhesion, otherwise it will bond to most materials but the adhesion is only as good as the weakest point then.