Ben Hart
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I’m with Ding on the accuspray. I used to have one, and it is a very interesting gun that is very versatile. My father used to sell them so I/we are very familiar with them.
However, it is not what I would prefer with automotive products. The accuspray was originally designed to be used with a turbine system to be portable for industrial use. It found its way into aviation and eventually the automotive market. Its current design has been around for at least 20 years.
I will agree that it is often overlooked and for some people may be the right choice, just nor for me (or ding either apparently)
Great Work!
Looks like some good advice.
There are many different brands of products avaliable, most are pretty good. As with anything it is down to personal prefrence. My favourite polish is Farclea (?) it is relatively inexpensive and is very easy to use. The Meguires products are great, but I find they tend to be a little expensive. 3M is good too, but for a beginer you may find some of their products not so user friendly…and they are also a little expensive.
As far as pads go there are a few things to consider. Size, backing material (most are velcro these days), density (harder pads for cutting, softer for finishing) and flat vs. waffle. As well as wool vs. foam.
Looks like you are off to a great start.
Good points have been made. The gun may do you for now, but do consider upgrading it. Use bigger air couplers…this is a MUST. What type od paint are you trying to spray?
Welcome!
One shop I used to work at, the boss would rent the booth out sometimes in the evenings.
Here in our city there are 2 shops that have mechanical areas and paint areas. All they do is rent out space on an hourly basis (yes, they have paint booths). Their cost is about $70/hr to rent. To me, that is a little high,,,especially when many shops only charge $70 and hour to paint…so it would almost make more sense to pay someone else to paint it for you… :rofl
If you are renting it, it won’t be cheap if it is heated as the gas to heat it costs a small fortune…and if you run a bake cycle, you better be ready to shell out some real money.
Good luck
[quote=”jisfreeloading” post=17996]thanks for all the replies guys, its really helpful. I have noticed that alot of yall tend to favor the Sata RP and I have looked into it. if yall say thats the best all around gun im cool with spending the extra money to pick one up. same with the Tekna and Iwata’s yall mentioned. do yall usually use a different gun for base and clear or, since they usually can be shot with the same tip, just stick to one gun that your most comforatable with?[/quote]
Different gun…that depends. Lots of us are using waterborne, so we have a different gun for base than clear. Shooting solvent base, you can use the gun for your clear, indeed. Again, this is preference. Some people are happy to spray certain base with the same setup, others prefer not. Depends on the gun, setup, the particular base you are spraying and your technique/preference.
[quote=”ding” post=17995][quote=”Ben” post=17993] Maybe I’m messed up, but nothing turns me on more than Bondo in a suit shoot :rock[/quote]
:whistle: :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
That sounds more like something Bondo would post…I expected better of you ding :rofl
[quote=”bobwires” post=17988]good ol’ American Ingenuity…. Chinese parts, probably assembled in Canada. haha :rock[/quote]
I’ve gotten a bunch of GM parts lately with “made in Korea” stickers on them. Why not just save the $3000 and buy a kia in the first place :lol1
Oh…nice pics! Maybe I’m messed up, but nothing turns me on more than a late 70s/early 80s Ford or GM truck in sexy brown…especially with the tan 2-tone. (where’s the turned on smiley?)
Looks like the truck came it with some good work already done to it. Post more pics when you get it unmasked, looks like a great paint job! :rock
I have the Devilbiss unit. It is much cheaper than SATA and works well. It is not built as nice, so if you are a production painter painting everyday I would pony up the money and go for the SATA…otherwise the Devilbiss gets my vote because of the price.
I have also used the SAS one. I would consider it midrange…
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17961]well i just have ta say the sata rp 1.3 is the choice for the pros;) 😉 i dont care what the other guys on this site say:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
I thought you were a Harbour Freight kind of guy…but that was only an assumption I made based on your photos :rofl
Seriously though, gun technology has changed some over the years. The most common guns today are:
-Sata (3000 and now the new 4000) in RP and HVLP
-Iwata has the Supernove and the 400 series (also in Compliant and HVLP formats)
-Devilbiss has the Tekna (which has interchangeable aircaps to make it compliant or HVLP). I like this gun, but it doesn’t seem to be as popular/common as the above 2The GTi and the Plus are great guns, but both are dated by today’s standards. You can get great results with them, however.
[quote=”Andy T” post=17957][quote=”Ben” post=17934]All paint guns are set up the same..[/quote]
:huh:
[quote=”Ben” post=17934].that is, adjusted to what suits you. [/quote]
Just messin’ Ben, but if someone were to take that quote out of context, it could get you shot 😆 :hunt
Completely agree with you though – there are so many variables that no-one can ever give another painter exact setting to copy. They can be a good starter, but the real skill in painting (in my humble opinion) is being able to fine tune the gun like you say, to suit oneself, and of course the material and spraying environment.[/quote]
I should have said all paint guns are set up using the same methods… :rofl
If you are doing a whole car, you may want to get a full size pad (7 or 8″).
Also, if you have little experience using a polisher, I recommend doing a little practice on something not too important in case you have any issues.
Are you just trying to polish to restore the old finish?
My coveralls say GM Goodwrench…but sometimes jobs require a bad wrench. Just grab the plastic part and rip it off with your hands. Either glue it together or buy a new one :rofl
I don’t remember if they are threaded on both ends like ding said, or if the other end is just a rectangular piece that is supposed to “not” spin in the cheap brittle plastic. Try like you will with the vise grips. If that fails, then I am serious about ripping it off. Gently pry the panel to put the point of stress just where the stud is. If done “properly” you will just snap off a tiny plastic tap that holds the metal stud in. After it is all apart you can glue the stud in solid.
Stupid GM junk…:whistle: