Ben Hart
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So the stuff you have, Jim, is 2.1 VOC?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=17866]And you are going right in the middle old brokeback :clappy[/quote]
like the creamy white centre of an Oreo cookie :lol1
time for a group hug?
:rofl[quote=”ding” post=17859]I have 55 line now. talked to my rep about just swapping to diamont tints to save some money. he wants me to try onyx instead. so i figure if i am going try water i might as well try them all[/quote]
I’d post my opinion of waterborne, but I think the topic has been discussed to death :deadhorse
[quote=”MoCoke” post=17845]they needed a shop for that? do they need some one to chauffeur the adjuster around too? ridiculous[/quote]
I was kind of thinking the same thing. Some things just don’t make sense (that is most things related to insurance companies)
Is your shop looking to convert to Envirobase, or just had some to play with?
Interesting thread, :whistle:
Looks great,
The envirobase is nice to use, very good product.
[quote=”ding” post=17841][IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/6600288fe8a4d8459a3c_33-1.jpg[/IMG]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]Its too bright in there, its hard to see anything :whistle:
Some things to consider are the shape/strength of the panel, where it is on the car and the climate.
Here, our weather can be as low as -40 and as warm as 35 (celcius). That is a lot of expansion and contraction of the panel and filler. Steel and filler do not expand and contract at exactly the same rate.
Thin weak panels (such as roofs) probably wouldn’t hold up too well with thick filler on them as they flex. Also consider vibrations through the panel.
Lastly, think about filling a hood. Hoods are thin and weak (lots of flexing) and some can get very warm from the engine. I am sure thick filler could be problematic.
I have seen lots of vehicles with cracked filler come into the shop and on the street. And often it isn’t much thicker than 1/4″. Obviously most people are good enough not to put it on any thicker than necessary, but the goal should still be to try to keep it as thin as possible.
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=17799][quote]You definitely don’t want to fill anything deeper than 1/8[/quote]
Interested in anyone else, who would care to admit that their repairs may be over 1/8 deep on occasion.
This is often not achievable on certain areas, strong corners on pickup beds, where the overall area may not be vast the depth can exceed 1/8
I was having a look at the rage products data sheets an did not see any mention of maximum depth though i do realize filler must not me over deep, more so on certain areas hoods for one as some can be quite flexible and are often dropped from a fair height to close.
In an ideal world most of us would prefer to replace more and more panels rather than mud them up, but in interests of keeping competitive and customer retention i would personally sacrifice the 1/8 rule, and have done on many occasions. Been doing this job for over 20years and never had a filler failure yet.
Take for instance the tailgate on this vehicle new gate $1,108.57 USD plus painting and fitting maybe another $400-$500 thats what maybe $1600.00 dollars for the poor old customer.
Think i would offer them a repaired tailgate for around $800.00
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[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/tailgate.jpg[/IMG][/quote]Obviously everyone applies it thicker in certain circumstances, but you don’t want to unless you [b]have[/b] to. If I have something deeper to fill, I will use fiberglass re-enforced filler for the added strength.
But in regards to door dings, there is definitely no reason why the filler should be more than 1/8″ thick…
Welcome to the site!
[quote=”lild” post=17784]well it took 5 mins.. i tried really hard not to save them 15%.[/quote]
You mean you wouldn’t just bend over and take it up the…you know. Just to make the annoying gecko happy?
The worst thing is we don’t have geico up here, but all the American TV channels are blasted with their annoying advertising. I have seen more of their commercials than all our Canadian insurance companies combined :huh:
[quote=”ding” post=17768][quote=”Jayson M” post=17767][quote=”jim c” post=17764]now according to my neighbor who is the sikkens rep around here, many of the lesonal clear are just relabeled sikkens. he said the cans go down the production line split in half, one side gets a lesonal label one side gets the sikkens. i’m sure this doesn’t apply to every clear but probably some. wouldn’t be the only paint company out there to do something like that. i have used the lesonal universal clear which was really good and my neighbor recently dropped off a couple gallons of the superior 250 for me to try. that is an extremely nice clear as well for those shops that can just spray and send it on its way. i tried buffing it and forget it. i would have better luck buffing the shop floor. with all that said though, the spi clears look just as good and buff like butter at 1/4 the cost.[/quote]
Superior 250 is not bad to polish if you start right away and use a polish for scratch resistant clears,3m has one and so does farecla.
Your SPI claim is bogus it is not 1/4 of the cost ,not for me up here anyway.I have tried it and it’s ok but it is not like a high end clear….sorry
I am amazed by your work….down right impressive but spare us the SPI plug[/quote]Tell us how you really feel Jay :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
Jayson is always quite reserved on his feelings…:whistle: