Ben Hart
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Did that job take you 15 minutes, and did you save them 15%?
Yep, just like these guys said. Work any highs/lows. You definitely don’t want to fill anything deeper than 1/8″. Remove the paint to bare metal, then skim the entire area. Filler may be better than putty depending on how deep they are, how you work it and what product you are using. Skimming the entire area is faster and will allow you to get the panel straighter (if done properly).
Just be careful when grinding the paint off so as not to create too much heat and warp the panel.
thats one ugly a$$ hood (but to each his own I guess)…
Good work lild…I especially the the waterfall on the front bumper. So if you were to have shaved it off first, would you charge betterment? :rofl
[quote=”Nexson” post=17772]those aren’t chips rat, those are chunks ( about .25”)!! his front bumper was resprayed and it has super bad adhesion to the sealer. He got one coming over, they are huge. I told him to get it looked at, from where he bought the car from.
The double sided tape is hit and miss, the back barely stuck, the front worked like a charm, it just sucks if you need to remove and reinstall.[/quote]
Cleaning with alcohol before applying helps. And if you wind up putting the tape on the part, wipe it all with adhesion promoter wipes first (specifically all raw plastic). The 3M adhesion promoter wipes work extremely well…
Your work looks great as usual. Do you happen to know every Honda owner in town that wants spoilers installed? :rofl
[quote=”jimmo” post=17717]Thanks for the info ben, sorry was missing a word on the steel question it was contains more then 0.50% carbon.
A few other ones that came to mind:
They asked for the electrical term that defines capacity, since they provided me with a dictionary I think I answered correctly with farad.
What kind of fire would a class A extinguisher be suited for – pretty sure paper was right.
This one was funny – What is the most likely cause of a computer virus – I think they wanted me to say opening an email attatchment.
Asked the electrical term to define pressure – pretty sure voltage was right
The minimum required amount of MSDS catagories – Guessed at 6
Another one that got me a bit was they asked for the term that describe substances ability to stick to another. The way it was worded made me think alot and then after referencing good old trusty dictionary I was narrowed down to adhesion or cohesion , i just picked what I thought the obvious answer they were after (adhesion) but not really 100%. (was maybe overthinking it but who knows with this test).[/quote]
A Farad is the measurement used for storage capacity (such as in a capacitor/condenser). Kind of irrelevant to what we actually do everyday…
[img]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Lzipf–xWTE/SijHUSBI_OI/AAAAAAAAAD0/QNgftESYRYU/s320/Fire-Extinguisher-Types.gif[/img]
I think the email one you probably got right…unless downloading porn was another answer :rofl
For electrical pressure, voltage is probably correct…however in more technical electrical theory, it would be considered incorrect or at least a very poor description as voltage is a measure of electrical potential (potential force)
MSDS is 9 categories (Manufacturer’s Contact Information, Hazardous Ingredients, Physical Data, Fire/Explosion Hazard Data, Reactivity Data, Toxicological Properties, Preventative Measures, First-Aid Measures, Preparation Information.) I didn’t realize there was a “minimum” unless the minimum is to contain everything.
Adhesion is the ability for dissimilar things to stick to each other, cohesion is the ability of similar things to stick to each other.
Hope this helps, and again, keep asking if you have more questions. The review is good for me too. :cheers
:sick: I just about fell out of my chair when I scrolled down and saw that colour
Your work looks great as usual.
Looks great! Shiny and straight.
My only criticism is the filler…not a big fan when the filler touches the paint…but it obviously worked for you!
1. Why didn’t you spray it on the shop floor
2. Why did you bag it? Were you all out of quality masking blankets?[quote=”jimmo” post=17667]
What is a cross action grinder used for
[color=#ff0000]to remove metal (buffing action is milder and used to remove things like paint)[/color]How much of the grinding disc should come in contact with the panel (guessed at 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 inches)
[color=#ff0000]my book says the top 1 1/2 to 2 ” so you are correct[/color]How many layers of steel is an oxygen tank made up of
[color=#ff0000]the tank is made up of 1 seamless piece of steel (no layers) to safely withstand the high tank pressure[/color]What angle should a da sander be held at (I thought flat but apparently not)
[color=#ff0000]never heard that one. I was always taught flat. They might be getting at somethng else here. Just another stupid outdated question…[/color]Angle a Plasma torche should be held at
[color=#ff0000]start off perpendicular to the panel (with the tip lightly touching) then proceed to slightly raise the tip off the panel and hold at a 15-30 degree angle once the arc is established. This is to avoid tip damage.[/color]How much stonger HSS is over regular body panels in %
[color=#ff0000]200% (about twice as strong)[/color]The PSI Tensile strength of HSS
[color=#ff0000]HSS is about 70,000 PSI tensile strength (just like regular mig welding wire). Mild carbon steel is about 35,000 PSI[/color]A panel comprised of more then 0.50% is (low/med/high strenght or allow metal) I picked alloy
[color=#ff0000]compromised of more than 0.5% what? Sounds like alloy is correct here…whatever that are asking[/color]When sanding for filler use a (open or closed paper,wet or dry, carbide) carbide sounded the coolest so I went with it.
[color=#ff0000]Open coat (regular dry paper). Open coat means the abbrasive is designed not to clog (generally placed further apart). Closed coat is what wet paper is (grit is typically closer together and clogs easy…the water in wet sanding acts as a lubricant and cleans the paper out). This is why wet paper with the same grit as dry often acts coarser[/color]The condition name for when a mig wire sticks to the side of the tip and starts to curl
[color=#ff0000]The wire cannot move out of the tip, but the rollers keep trying to push it out so it bunches up inside the machine and makes a mess. This is called a rats nest.[/color]The period of time manufacturers are obligated to provide warranty for parts (picked 30 days)
[color=#ff0000]I would assume that new parts are required to have at least a 1 year warranty. I don’t have anything about this. Again, another stupid question…[/color]Oxygen is this type of gas in oxyacetaline welding (chose active) options were passive, inert and something else
[color=#ff0000]I believe active is correct[/color]There were a few that asked for the terms refering to damage conditions….etc..direct, indirect, primary, secondary.. a bit iffy.
[color=#ff0000]Direct damage is the area that was actually hit (like the centre of a dent or the corner of the car that physically hit the telephone pole). Indirect damage is the damage around this and throughout the car as it travels (the buckles around a dent, the edge of a fender that is smushed into the door, buckled rocker panel roof and 1/4 panel etc). Primary and secondary are similar. Primary is the damage caused by the vehicles collision (change in direction/stopping the car). Secondary is travelling in the direction of momentum. A car hit hard in the front pushes the primary damage back (in) such as pushing the rad support in. Secondary is the opposite direction. The buckles caused by the back of the car still moving forward while the front has come to a halt (buckled 1/4 panel, dash panel as the drives forward momentum makes him slam into the dash…the junk in the trunk slamming into the back seat etc). [/color]A few questions asking about names for metal durability conditions, I know i got tensile & yeild stength right, theres a few that were [color=#ff0000]harder to answer. If you can be more specific on terms it would help. There are a lot of terms related to metallurgy [/color]
[/quote]I hope this helps and that I have everyone correct. Let me know if you have more questions! :rock
guess I’m not the only one, just haven’t perfected the art of hiding from the wife as well as some of you :rofl
[quote=”RatStang” post=17678]They’re right about the molded on parts. Although there isn’t a whole lot of ways to put those on unfortunately like stated steel and fiberglass expand and contract differently. Andto be honest I have never not seen this methods not fail over a couple years. In the end the work ends up costing you more than full glass fenders would have.[/quote]
That is completely true.
Something that might be a little better is to try flexible filler/adhesive (the stuff used on bumpers) instead of polyester filler. It will flex more and “might” be less worrisome.
[quote=”jimmo” post=17667]Hey fella’s, So I called it right and got the exact same test as before. I am pretty sure I at least passed it this time. Definately have some issues with the test but whatever, I guess as long as I’m over 70 whats the point of compaining. AS for the drill bit question it was asking how to sharpen for use on high strength steel, my options were 60,65,70 and 75 degrees…forget what i picked now… i know I elected multiple of 10. so wish me luck on that. I got the exact same 16 digit VIN question and the one that kinda grinds my gears is what the safe temperature to heat HSS to, the options I had were all 900 degrees and under, my textbook says it 1200 degrees and some manufacturers recommend 1000…. needless to say its a bit frustrating trying to give the answers that nobody seems to agree on.
A few that stumped me still:
What is a cross action grinder used for
How much of the grinding disc should come in contact with the panel (guessed at 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 inches)
How many layers of steel is an oxygen tank made up of
What angle should a da sander be held at (I thought flat but apparently not)
Angle a Plasma torche should be held at
How much stonger HSS is over regular body panels in %
The PSI Tensile strength of HSS
A panel comprised of more then 0.50% is (low/med/high strenght or allow metal) I picked alloy
When sanding for filler use a (open or closed paper,wet or dry, carbide) carbide sounded the coolest so I went with it.
The condition name for when a mig wire sticks to the side of the tip and starts to curl
The period of time manufacturers are obligated to provide warranty for parts (picked 30 days)
Oxygen is this type of gas in oxyacetaline welding (chose active) options were passive, inert and something else
There were a few that asked for the terms refering to damage conditions….etc..direct, indirect, primary, secondary.. a bit iffy.
A few questions asking about names for metal durability conditions, I know i got tensile & yeild stength right, theres a few that were harder to answer.
I’m tired though, getting late if more come to me I’ll post em .[/quote]
Glad to hear you did better! :clappy
I know, there are always stupid questions. Many would be much easier to do as a short answer so you can justify what you put on. As for the drill bit, if you take 90 degrees and subtract the 20 (the angle I measure) than your answer is 70 degrees.
I’ve got the answers to those, when I have time later I will post them up…
People apply filler more than 1/8″???
My only question is why was the moulding “molded” to the fender? Thats just asking for a world of trouble…
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17630]
It would be a major beneft for you to determine what brand of product your going to use and what products themselves and read the TDS sheets for them very closely. all your answers will be in there.[/quote]This is VERY important. All products are different. Finishing with 320 may work well with some, but with others you will see the scratches. There are so many variables like that depending on the products you are using.