Ben Hart
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[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17616]Great pics dag! Looks like it came out good. Nothing like fresh black paint[/quote]
Fresh black, looks amazing!
I’m always impressed with what you guys are able to do down there with so few materials :clappy
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17604]i can feel the love:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl actually benney i really did want some opinions ya notice all the new parts are already sealed???
hmmmmmm[/quote]ok, ok…back to the topic.
I say screw the bumper, if the bumper shade is a little different, then it is back to “pre-accident condition.” If you can quickly tint to the point of not needing to blend, then thats the way to do it. Otherwise, blend it.
At the last 2 shops I’ve been at, the painters paint everything off all at once (rarely edge first) and blend the remaining panel(s) like that
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17601][quote=”Ben” post=17600][quote=”ding” post=17599][quote=”bondomerchant” post=17598][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17597][quote=”bondomerchant” post=17594]ya but i didnt have any dead cats around so i will pull the lights but not the cover i know its dirty but it makes sure ya dont have any suprizes in the end not 2 hard ta mask a cover off an sucks when they dont fit :p :p :p :p :p ive got enuff drama in this buiss ta abuse myself an yes we are gonna detrim the door still gotta fix a ding in it;)[/quote]
Aren’t you worried about the paint on the bumper you painted peeling if you tape to it? :p[/quote]
well if i was ding i probably would :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl but i use real car paint:p :p :p :p fuk im still laughing ya goober:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
No you use that latex house paint. that sheet will stick to anything :p :p :p[/quote]Yep…
Buy some real paint and maybe the colour will match. Your old school acrylic-lacquer martin manure $hit paint only matches barn door red. Sherwin Williams by any other name still spells $hit. :rofl
We just did a similar job on a Buick, and the painter butted it (but we use Sikkens). :clappy[/quote]
geez this from the guy from butt match moutain:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl just remember benney but matches are for butt heads:p :p :p :p :p[/quote]I see right through you Bondo…
You only started this thread for 2 reasons…1. to keep seeing the work butt…. 2. to have another excuse to mention Brokeback Mountain to me (yet again). I’m sorry you wore your copy of Brokeback mountain out (although I can’t imagine how many times you had to watch it to wear a DVD out), but I STILL will not come down there to re-enact it with you. :chair[quote=”jim c” post=17578]wait, wouldn’t it depend on the bit? some are 118 some are 135 etc.[/quote]
I believe spot weld bits are flatter than standard bits. They are about 150 degree…so if you divide the drill down the centre (at 90 degrees) and subtract the 1/2 of 150 you get 15 degrees (the angle that you hold the bit to sharpen it).
[quote=”ding” post=17599][quote=”bondomerchant” post=17598][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17597][quote=”bondomerchant” post=17594]ya but i didnt have any dead cats around so i will pull the lights but not the cover i know its dirty but it makes sure ya dont have any suprizes in the end not 2 hard ta mask a cover off an sucks when they dont fit :p :p :p :p :p ive got enuff drama in this buiss ta abuse myself an yes we are gonna detrim the door still gotta fix a ding in it;)[/quote]
Aren’t you worried about the paint on the bumper you painted peeling if you tape to it? :p[/quote]
well if i was ding i probably would :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl but i use real car paint:p :p :p :p fuk im still laughing ya goober:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
No you use that latex house paint. that sheet will stick to anything :p :p :p[/quote]Yep…
Buy some real paint and maybe the colour will match. Your old school acrylic-lacquer martin manure $hit paint only matches barn door red. Sherwin Williams by any other name still spells $hit. :rofl
We just did a similar job on a Buick, and the painter butted it (but we use Sikkens). :clappy
[quote=”jimmo” post=17574]lol, ya thx ben if you could I’d appreciate it.[/quote]
Ok…just so you know, there are several exams. You probably won’t get the same exam next time. However, the exam you get could have the same question or one similar to it…or no drill bit question at all.
The question on the exam should give you the 4 options (a, b, c, d). Each should be a range. The correct answer should be 18-22 degrees (or something very close to that, depending on which exam you get). Do you recall what you answered on it last time?
:cheers
[quote=”93foxcoupe” post=17572]sounds like all great advice! im going to be doing some bodywork on it so either way im going to use primer. now my question is, after i spray the sealer i can go ahead and spray base on top of the sealer? or do i have to wait and sand down the sealer?:blink:[/quote]
Sealer is intended to be used wet on wet. Primer-surfacer is meant to be sanded. Read the tech sheet for what products you are using. Most sealers need to be topcoated within a few hours (after proper flash time). Some sealers can be left for close to 1 week. Some fill well, others don’t really fill. Some lay out smoother than others…and lastly, some can be applied over burn throughs (bare metal).
If a sealer is left too long (out of the topcoat window) it has to be sanded for adhesion. Other than that, the only reasons to sand sealer are to smooth it out (if it is not a smooth sealer and you are not happy with it) or to remove imperfections (like dust nibs, minor scratches etc)…
I highly recommend researching the product that will suit your needs. And don’t go cheap!!!
:cheers
Generally around 15-20 degrees (depending on how you are measuring it). I do have the book somewhere (with the info that is used for the Red Seal exams) if I remember, I can try to check it for you
Sounds like some good points so far.
In regards to the sealer, I would probably want to finish sanding with 400-500 before sealing to ensure proper coverage of sand scratches. Read the tech sheets for your products before you decide…
I also agree with using a white sealer. Just make sure you have enough coats for coverage and spray evenly…whites don’t cover well, poor opacity, so watch as you apply. The tendancy is to put a lot on at once, instead, do lighter coats that fast a little faster and apply as many as needed. I do recommend doing a spray out card if you aren’t completely sure.
Looks great!
I love the Tekna, and the Pro Air clear…just haven’t ever used them together!
Why not 1K acrylic sealer? :rofl
[quote=”bodymanhelper” post=17543]ben i looked at the instruction book and it shows a slot were you suppose put a screwdriver thru.[/quote]
Ok, so you have the basic (non bearing) sliders, correct?
If so, there should be an oval hole. Push in the metal in the oval hole with a hard screw driver. It will take a good bit of force. At the same time, pull the drawer and hold the slider. Repeat for the 2nd side. It isn’t too hard, but does take some effort. :cheers
Like Ryan said, there should be a little plastic piece (usually black)..basically a tab that you push down or up to slide each rail out. Is there not a little instruction sheet with the tool box?
A standard single stage blend is prepped as normal over the repair area (finished with 500, 600 or whatever suits your fancy). Then the area around there is sanded finer, say 1000 grit, then 1500. You will cover with paint up to the 1000 grit, the blender will go over the 1500 grit. You do not need to cover the entire 1500 grit area.
The entire panel (if it is a small panel) or a large area around it should be lightly abraded. Trizac 3000 works well, so does 2500, or you can rub it with a coarse cutting compound by hand to open it up.
The keys are to cover the repair area, each coat going further than the last, making sure not to go past your prepped area. Your first coat should be sprayed as normal. You may add the appropriate blender to the subsequant coats in any ratio that works for you. Be careful as the viscosity will be changed. At the end you may melt in the blend with pure blending solvent.
After it has dried well (over night) it can be polished. If the blend is good, you may be able to run the polisher over the area just with some compound. IF the repair is ok, you may need to lightly wet sand it a bit first. DO NOT sand too much, or polish too much as this will remove too much material and will leave a noticeable blend. If the blend is not ok, you may be better off redoing it, rather than spending too much effort polishing.
THere are several ways to go about this…hope this method can help you find a way that will work.
That sucks…
but hey, it happens to us all. Its annoying stuff like that, which makes me prefer body work