Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- AuthorPosts
[quote=”painter123″ post=17499][quote=”Whitesnake” post=17487]What caps are you spraying with? Are they the hvlp or compliant?[/quote]
i am using the 7E7 aircap which is the compliant one.[/quote]Thats what I have in mine. I’ve heard that the HVLP aircap isn’t near as nice to use.
[quote=”jasonsdream” post=17478]i finally got that full time painters job/yeah/no more combo/anyway,i’m at a shop that is building a brand new shop.at the current shop i spray debeers water and rm solvent.well it’s my understanding that i will loss the rm solvent at the new shop.water only!i’m saying the new law for tn is 3 or more years before the epa says water only, why take away any of my tools to work with.i pull chips from both and the best chip wins and it’s been great.is anyone working with just water and are they having any issues with match.debeers is working on thier camera,but it’s not ready yet.[/quote]
Basically all of us in Canada are using water. Every brand is different and some have better matches than others. I know nothing about debeer products, so I cannot comment there. But in general, great matches are being achieved with water…just like solvent, some are good and some aren’t.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=17471]I disagree,when… if ever have you sprayed black and white checkerboard sealer:silly: Spray the color of sealer you are going to use on the spray out card first then apply your basecoat , you will know the true number of coats you need for coverage and to check color match.Sometimes the color of sealer can cause a difference but really coverage is coverage.[/quote]
I always spray my sealer in a black and white checker board pattern, what kind of crazy sealer are you using??? :rofl
The concept is simply coverage…if the base hides black and hides white, it should hide anything (so long as bleed through is not an issue).
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17464][quote=”MoCoke” post=17463]the black sealer is gonna throw ur color off and cost you a lot of color. better to buy some light gray sealer or a buff color preferably then it is to buy and apply so much base.[/quote]
good advice moke:cheers :cheers :cheers sealer is cheaper than base[/quote]cheaper, quicker and less of a chance of trapped solvents from all those extra coats of base.
If you have a black and white spray out card, spray that when you check your colour. You will know how many coats to hide after that…
Nice!
I just bought one of the Copper Tekna guns a few months ago. I’ve only used it a couple of times and love it and the price was fantastic. I tried it with water base and intend it to be a base gun. Just for $hits and giggles I sprayed some clear through it, and was very impressed. I think it sprayed the base better than the SATA, and was about as good as the SATA RP for clear. I do give SATA the leading edge as far as easy cleaning goes…
When I start doing more painting again, I think I will buy another one for clear.
[quote=”jimmo” post=17395]So did we figure out if its dieback or sandscatch sinking? I’m curious about the wet on wet primer with only 5 minutes flash, I’m not familiar with standox but know in my line the fastest one is 15 before topcoating, if you try and cheat it usualy results in dieback.
I dont know about the rest of the ppl in the thread but i’m not sure where its sinking exactly, do you see all the sandscratches from when you sanded the panel? are you over-reducing the primer?[/quote]
I agree, 15 minutes is typically the minimum for urethane sealer, and flash is usually doubled if you apply a 2nd coat.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=17357]Looks like the old Blackhawk Korek (korak) system,I’m showing my age but I have worked on 6 different ones over the years,more versatile than any other floor system.[/quote]
Found a training video for it on ebay, unfortunately I don’t have a BetaMax player… :rofl
Youtube has a few videos, looks like a neat system. Also explains why the one bay has a big rectangle in the centre (where the lift portion was).
- AuthorPosts