Ben Hart

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Viewing 15 posts - 1,066 through 1,080 (of 1,371 total)
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  • January 8, 2011 at 9:13 pm #26928

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=16873][quote=”lild” post=16871]nice work precious. but i don’t see where you messed up.[/quote]
    i taped my charcol a qtr inch 2 high if ya look at the pics ya can see were i got sloppy an assumed 2 much:chair :chair[/quote]

    I used to work on heavy trucks/busses/fleet etc. We did a lot of striping on a lot of large vehicles. After a few hours you start to go cross eyed and can no longer see straight.

    Now that Subaru is very small, no excuses for you! Oh wait, there is one possible excuse…you striped it first thing in the morning while you were still shaky (from Keystone withdraw) :clappy :cheers

    Looks great Bondo :rock

    January 7, 2011 at 5:08 pm #26913

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=16860]funny ben ya goober:lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1[/quote]

    Well, I’m just wondering what would happen if your avatars were to mate…

    January 7, 2011 at 7:55 am #26902

    Good work!

    January 7, 2011 at 3:39 am #26879

    Very nice.

    I think you and Bondo make quite the pair.

    January 6, 2011 at 8:09 am #26856

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=16817]To be honest I really don’t like the idea of putting poly over sanded paint. I don’t like putting polyester glaze over paint either.

    The way I would do it would depend on what you want out of the car. If you love the car, plan on keeping for a long time and want a top notch job I would take it to metal and use poly if needed. If you like the car and want a good looking job that you are going to sell it a few years down the road I would use your existing finish. Block what you have and put a good 2 pack primer on it. Block and reprime any areas that need it. Sand and paint.[/quote]

    Well said, II think that pretty well sums up most of the posts. :cheers

    January 6, 2011 at 8:07 am #26855

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=16818]I use a Blowtherm with Junair QUADS at work. I am happy with it.. Easy to maintain, seems to be a real workhorse. I wish it had a little more airflow but nothing bad. Bad news is this booth isn’t made anymore. Global bought Blowtherm and the booth is now made in Mexico and have heard the quality is just not there.

    A few booths to look at are USI Italia, Junair, and if in North America look at Spraytech. All very nice.

    I have some experience with Garmat. The ones I have used have been ok. Seemed to break somewhat often. They were all older models though. They pulled air very well and I liked using them.[/quote]

    I think you are right about the Garmats. The repair guys I have talked to don’t seem to have a lot of long term faith in them. I think the idea with them is for high volume shops that will get a good 5-10 years out of em (with regular, and surprise maintenance) then replace them. Too big of a money pit for the little guys.

    On another note, with all the shops “going green” and paint manufacturers putting out low/short bake products, I wonder if baking will become a thing of the past to save energy consumption.

    January 6, 2011 at 4:14 am #26849

    [quote=”bobwires” post=16809]what is CP400?[/quote]

    I believe it is the crossfire epoxy.

    January 4, 2011 at 5:04 pm #26820

    [quote=”bloverby” post=16764]Not all poly primers go over bare metal. Most evercoat stuff needs something under it.

    I like the 4:1 super build myself. That can go over bare metal, etch, epoxy, old finishes, etc. and it builds like crazy. Like 8-10 mils per coat.[/quote]

    If he’s not stripping it, that is probably the better way to go. The idea of poly over old paint doesn’t make me happy. I imagine the super build probably sands nicely too.

    January 4, 2011 at 5:01 pm #26819

    [quote=”bobwires” post=16782]5887 eh? I got the 5885 thinking it was basically the same as 5887. in fact I don’t recall why, since it’s been quite a while. the 5885 is supposed to be ‘easy sand’ too. hmm I’ll have to give it another shot.[/quote]

    They are probably both the same, but in different packaging. The 5887 is in the 200ml cartridge that fits in the gun.

    January 4, 2011 at 8:23 am #26812

    [quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=16776]Just a little update on things. Im getting use to “Sikkens” more and more. Still not happy with the speed of the primer, but I love the base coat coverage. Im getting the Pro Air clear figured out. I have been leaving the reducer out and it looks much better and holds a good gloss. I have been using a CVI and an LPH 400. I get better results with the LPH but the CVI is not bad. The mixing scale is the older version so its a bit of a pain sometimes. But overall its getting better.[/quote]

    Glad to hear its working better for you!

    January 4, 2011 at 7:19 am #26808

    [quote=”lild” post=16772]bondo likes to use a rusty sos pad, then wipes it down with keystone, no matter how many times we told him rubbing alchol, he gets confused easily.[/quote]

    :rofl

    January 4, 2011 at 4:56 am #26803

    [url=http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtNxf6OxM2EVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666–]This is the one I like[/url]

    3M EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair, 05887

    Follow the directions. My only advice, do a quick initial sand with 80 on a DA, then block with 80 then 120 up to 320. It is not bad with pinholes, but you likely will get a few. Re0skim with it if necessary then let the primer take care of the rest.

    I find sanding it is fairly easy (compared to other plastic repair products I have used). Adhesion is great, so it feathers out really nice.

    January 4, 2011 at 2:20 am #26796

    [quote=”turbo t” post=16758]so what are you recomending do the dent repairs ….. block the panels then spray poly ….block again then prime ?[/quote]

    Basically, yes.

    Fill any dents properly. If the panels are getting any polyester product (be it filler, putty or primer) it must be down to bare metal. Spray with poly, block, then spray with urethane, block again…

    There are countless ways of doing this with many products available. The factors you need to decide are cost, time and quality.

    January 4, 2011 at 2:16 am #26795

    [quote=”bobwires” post=16755]I’ve got the 4240, which is great as a bonder but leaves lots of pinholes, and I still have some 5885 left – which is crap. I hate that stuff. gums up paper worse than anything I’ve used – supposed to dry in minutes, but it has to be FULLY cured before you dare sand it without risking chunks of it falling off.

    I was going to say 3m is the worst for sanding :rofl

    maxim is good stuff, and comes right out of a standard tube in a caulking gun[/quote]

    only 1 of the 3M products sands well. They actually changed it about 2 or 3 years ago and it is much better than the old formula. I can get the P/N if you are at all interested.

    January 4, 2011 at 2:13 am #26794

    That looks like quite the job. You definitely have some work ahead. Good luck!

Viewing 15 posts - 1,066 through 1,080 (of 1,371 total)