Ben Hart
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[quote=”lild” post=16636]not even our windsheild guy use’s that kind of tool.
bondo we all know that you use a razor blade duct tape to a paint paddle.[/quote]The best way is to make sure you get enough overspray over the old windshield so that the customer doesn’t notice you didn’t change it! :whistle:
[quote=”Nexson” post=16624]man, you weren’t lying when you said it was 12 degrees when i called you today.[/quote]
its -22 (C) here, looks like we have about the same amount of snow…but for some reason Bondo looks to have more work :S
[quote=”Nexson” post=16587]Yea, I understand what your saying right there.
As for the second coat, I have been told wait for hand slick and then I have been told wait for tacky (like the backside of a piece of tape, not stringly like you said) and I was just confused as to which one to use.[/quote]
Jayson is correct.
tacky, handslick, etc. just different terms. I think the term “handslick” is mostly used by Sherwin WIlliams people. But the theory is correct, not stringy (unless you like runs)
[quote=”painter123″ post=16609]how about one of these http://www.aegistools.com/catalog/Power-Cut-Out-Tools/Equalizer-Express-StingRay-120-Volt-Standard-Kit-LDT204/%5B/quote%5D
I have a similar attachment for my air hammer that works ok, but the blade is slightly thicker than the equalizer. If I did lots, that would be my first choice of “proper” tools to use.
MoCoke, if you can get a blade like that and attach it to a heavy slide hammer it will work well, and is inexpensive. The trouble is, most vehicles have the high viscosity urethane that it a b*tch to cut. The older medium/low viscosity stuff is much easier to work with.
There are several tools out there, and if you are going to be serious about it, you will need a variety. Definitely need a razor (Olfa knife), piano wire (although it won’t get used much), a good pull knife and something like the equalizer. No 1 tool is perfect for every piece of glass (although some glass guys try to only use the equalizer, and wind up making a mess of everything).
[quote=”MoCoke” post=16601]it would be nice if someone actually put together a good how to on windshields.[/quote]
I don’t do a lot of glass, but if I did do you a video, you would only hear about 3 words (repeated frequently). 👿 So anything useful I might have to say wouldn’t get said.
[quote=”ding” post=16597][quote=”Ben” post=16594]I’ve used a few Garmat 3000s. Very expensive (well over 100k). The booth is well lit, excellent air flow, consistent pressure, heats quickly/well, not bad at reaching temp for bake cycle. I would gladly use one again. If it were my money, however, I think I would look for a more cost efficient alternative.[/quote]
about 60k installed with fire suppression ;)[/quote]I don’t think they are that cheap up here. We get gouged with everything :chair
I guess you just put the urethane bead over the bed of old glass for optimal adhesion. The best part is the glass fragments that fly in your face the first time you turn the heater on! 😉
[quote=”ding” post=16593][quote=”bobwires” post=16589]the car you linked to there looks REALLY clean! not my favorite style of car, but to each his own. I really don’t like much of anything from the 80’s. The music, the hair, the sweaters. I’m thankful I wasn’t around for most of them :lol1[/quote]
The 80’s Rocked :rock :rock :rock dont know what you were missing.
Of course that car looks kinda like a chevy celebrity Not quite the level of a Luv but close :rofl :rofl :rofl
Like the others said Macioce. guide coat and lots of blocking by hand[/quote]Although ugly and unreliable, I love 80s automobiles, especially the red interiors. I hope when I am old, I can go to “classic” car shows and see vintage 80s cars (and not just 5.0 Mustangs and Cameros). :clappy
I’ve used a few Garmat 3000s. Very expensive (well over 100k). The booth is well lit, excellent air flow, consistent pressure, heats quickly/well, not bad at reaching temp for bake cycle. I would gladly use one again. If it were my money, however, I think I would look for a more cost efficient alternative.
Do you use a DA (sander) at all after blocking? Are you using guide coat between each stage of sanding? When you sand your primer, has it dried well (overnight)? When you block, are you using light pressure?
Some primers are denser than others. The dense primers are harder to sand, but can give a straighter surface.
I was thinking the same thing. That big polisher with a small pad would sure be interesting to handle.
My little 3″ polisher doesn’t use all that much air volume (compared to the 8″), but you will still need a minimum of 10-15 CFM
[quote=”bobwires” post=16554]I stick to hand sanding until I get up a bit finer than that. at least up to 180 to ensure it’s flat.
I know some guys don’t do that, but I hate those waves[/quote]
Exactly. I am sure you have done a lot of work on it and would like it to be excellent. Go over it with 220 on a block. Don’t spend too much time worrying about it. The 220 will minimize the scratches, and your Primer should take care of the rest. I believe the 5310 is a good High build, high solids primer, so it should do a great job filling the remaining scratches. Just put an adequate amount on (with proper flash time) and let it dry over night before sanding and it should work very well for you! 😉
[quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=16542]Great Vid. :clappy :clappy[/quote]
I should see if the local trade school will start teaching using Bondo’s videos and methods. :rofl
I have a CP 3″ polisher (air).
Never heard of an electric one.
[quote=”macioce” post=16545]Hi guys got a holden commodore 1984 project going.
Its has been stripped down to a shell all panels back to bare steel epoxy primed and repairs over that.
Then two pack primed with 5310 spies hecker primer then rubbed . Now then i have spritzed the whole car (spray bog/filler) blocked the whole car
with 120 grit to get it straight. Now my problem is im trying to figure out what grit to finish off with before i give it the final prime with 5310 spies hecker primer??
was thinking of giving it a 150 grit block over 120 grit scratches to remove them as i dont want to have to block a third time before i final prime??Any thoughts?? maybe blove could help?? thanks guys..[/quote]
100 grit rule…follow the 120 with 220, then reprime. Sand that primer with 320-400, then 500, 600, etc to whatever you finish with.