Ben Hart
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[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15707]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=36&id=2321&Itemid=285
that is what the ez-edger does ben. Here is a post I made a while ago about how to do it by hand[/quote]
Good video. That is basically what we would do. So this edger thing attaches to the masking machine?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=15693]I use to use the foam tape but I hate the glue residue that it can leave sometimes.I think a better way to do it is to use the EZ edger,it will fold the edge over on a regular roll of tape and it leaves a soft edge.Check it out on the web if you can,Ryan has a way to do it with out the machinine but I can’t make it work :compsmash[/quote]
I use the foam tape and like it for speed..but it can bite you in the a$$ when it lifts or leaves residue. Best to remove it ASAP after baking or when the paint is tack free.
We didn’t use foam tape at 1 shop. I had a girl working with me who was great at making soft edges for the jamb. She was good and quick at it. I could do it, just not as fast.
I think the trick is to rub your finger over the tape (or rub it over your coveralls) so it isn’t quite so tacky, then fold about 1/8″ of tape over itself so when you tape it down that 1/8″ end of the tape won’t stick to the panel and lifts up a tiny bit. Takes some getting used to, but works great (especially if your boss is too cheap to buy foam tape).
I manage to do 1 or 2…a month.
But hey, I’m just a lowly bodyman. When I fill in I can get about 2-3 done in a day (priming, prepping, masking painting etc.). Hard to get in the groove when you are using someone else’s space.
When I was painting at the last shop I could do about 4-6 a day with a little help and a lot of accelerator (no heat in the booth).
Happy Thanksgiving to our American Friends
[quote=”iponnet” post=15637]tx alot for the response, just another newb question, are flakes same as pearls?
tx[/quote]
Flake is just another term for metallic (metallic flake). Generally when the term flake is used, it is referring to the larger coarser flake.
Pearl and metallic flakes can be made of many materials from aluminum to plasitc. Pearl can be purchased in dry (powder) form or wet (basically already mixed with clear basecoat). Metallics are usually sold wet, but some coarse flakes can be found in dry form (for custom jobs).
Either metallic or pearl jobs can be difficult for beginners. The most difficult being heavy (coarse) metallic and certain colours of pearls. Lighter colours such as golds and silvers can be very difficult too.
Definately a neat looking tool.
I haven’t had a bonded plastic repair fail, however.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15610][quote=”Ben” post=15599]Ryan,
Just for comparison, The Envirobase is not recommended to go over epoxy at all (as of yet). PPG brought in a prototype epoxy to us a few months ago, we’ll see if it ever gets developed. PPG does allow us to use their OneChoice aerosol primer under the base.
When I used CromaxPro, the DuPont rep preferred that we use the Epoxy as sealer and we were ok spraying it over their aerosol primer. But Cromax is a little different than many of the others. When I painted my car with Cromax, I sealed it with 1 coat of epoxy followed by a 30 minute flash prior to basing it. It has been about 3 years and holding up well. Adhesion seems to be excellent.
Obviously they are all different, but it is interesting comparing the differences in water base.[/quote]
When I got certified in Cromax they told me to stay away from aerosol. Epoxy can be used but they wanted a urethane in-between. They might have changed their stance by now. It was 2 years ago when I got certified.
With Sikkens, epoxy is a no-no for use as a sealer. They are ok with it for small cut-throughs, but not for sealing large areas. All you do is dust a light over reduced coat on top of the metal, trying to keep it small. They still prefer a urethane but the epoxy can be used if efficency is top priority.
Sikkens is supposed to have a waterborne primer/sealer that will solve this but it’s not out yet.[/quote]
I think after having known the DuPont rep for several years, I’ve come to the conclusion that he knows more about DuPont products than DuPont does itself (at least in his own mind). What he says supersedes the tech sheets :whistle:
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=15605]Personally I think comparing different waterborne brands is almost like comparing apple to oranges, where solvent systems were a lot more similar to one another.[/quote]
Exactly. After comparing Cromax to Envirobase, Gloabl and Chromabase almost seem identical. 😆
[b]
lild, [/b] we are using the new sealer. I like them a lot. They spray awesome, lay down incredibly smooth and dry very fast (not to mention they make denibbing easy when needed). My only complaint is that the white is a little transparent (not a big surprise) and that thy don’t fill 80 grit scratches or rock chips and dents :whistle:[quote=”dcturcotte” post=15600]You guys are going to think i’m a sick bastard but i don’t mind tinting :stoned[/quote]
When I worked at my last shop I liked tinting…but I had the time to do it and spray tons of spray out cards.
This is kind of a tough question to answer. Pearls are usually used 1 of 2 ways. Many metallic colours actually have pearl(s) in them. Some metallic colours actually have no metallics, just pearl (mica).
Pearl can also be used as a tri-stage. You spray a coloured ground coat and then spray several transparent coats that contain a little pearl. These give the nicest result but can be difficult to paint especially for a beginner. I would not recommend this unless you are very skilled with spraying.
As to how it will look, that will depend. Also note that many colours contain a mix of pearls to get the desired colour rather than just one pearl.
[quote=”vizard” post=15572]With new parts its mostly a grey coat first (dp40) then the color, i don’t like using a ground that is the same color as the color i am spraying purely because its harder to see your overlap, im still a bit of a noob hehe.[/quote]
SPRAY OUT CARD!!!
Using a sealer is great and will help coverage. I know with SS how you are afraid of not covering and afraid of over-applying. As Ryan said, spray for a good finish, not coverage. Coverage will come with the necessary coats. I found that most better S.S. paints do cover in 1 coat. If you need 3 lighter coats that is ok too, just follow the tech sheet/flash times.
Use a black & white spray out card next time while you are painting. Keep putting coats on until you have hiding on the spray out card ( can no longer see the black/white).
If you are spraying something hard to see (like white paint over white sealer) just remember to paint evenly (like a robot) and follow your wet edge. Watch the paint as it lays onto the panel and see what it is doing. If you need to stop after a pass to look that is ok. I know that sometimes with the hood on and the overspray in the air I have troube seeing some areas. Stop and look so you know you are happy with what you are doing.
Ryan,
Just for comparison, The Envirobase is not recommended to go over epoxy at all (as of yet). PPG brought in a prototype epoxy to us a few months ago, we’ll see if it ever gets developed. PPG does allow us to use their OneChoice aerosol primer under the base.
When I used CromaxPro, the DuPont rep preferred that we use the Epoxy as sealer and we were ok spraying it over their aerosol primer. But Cromax is a little different than many of the others. When I painted my car with Cromax, I sealed it with 1 coat of epoxy followed by a 30 minute flash prior to basing it. It has been about 3 years and holding up well. Adhesion seems to be excellent.
Obviously they are all different, but it is interesting comparing the differences in water base.
[quote=”lild” post=15557]after a while, i know what virants will work the best. i use the variant chips, and if the oem doesn’t match i find one that does. sometimes i have to use a 50/50 on some colors to get a good match. but i hate tinting with a passion. take too much time.
so when in doubt, i consult the excuse catalog. by the way when is the revise edition comeing out with the water section?[/quote]I’ve got a copy of the latest edition.
Chapter 2, waterborne base, Page 217, line 18 reads,”…metallic flakes float differently in water than solvent…matching requires voodoo.” The footnote to that reads, “I don’t get paid enough to deal with this, so that’s the best it gets.” :clappy
And the best thing is that this edition is printed with vegetable based inks on 100% recycled paper. And if you burn it, it puts of less than 2.1 VOC
[quote=”bobwires” post=15524]so you use ABTM for all of your abrasives? bummer. I was hoping you had some awesome local supplier. I guess I’m stuck hunting for the best deals in quantity online. :compsmash
I’ll post what I find. Thanks Bondo
Does anybody know specifically of a good place for Norton stuff online?[/quote]
I know the manager at the local C-Max (Napa paint supply) and they get Norton at awesome prices. But I bet you could get screwed with shipping and possibly customs/taxes.
Well, the owner should have known better when the price sounds too good to be true. But even still, the dumb a$$ that did the work shouldn’t do what is beyond his capability.
Guess the problems I deal with aren’t so bad afterall…