Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- AuthorPosts
[quote=”Jayson M” post=15205]Although I don’t agree with waiting as long as you do Jim you are absolutely correct.If you think about production painting sometimes you have to use sealer, a wet bed for your blend panel,3 coats of base,then bang on 2 coats of clear.That is alot of trapped solvent that can either cause dieback,delamination or solvent pop.When I used solvent base I would use slow reducer on everything.In our downdraft booths we have lots of airflow and it would flash off the same as fast reducer.Fast reducer in basecoat can cause your base to skin over slightly and cause some problems.I would let my sealer flash minimum 20-30mins,base 30mins,before clear.On a complete I would wait minimum an hour before clear.If you are turning off your booth I can see having to wait overnight or 4hrs,but if you have airflow and heat while the booth is running that is unessesary to wait that long.We also do show cars at my shop,not just a splash and dash crash shop.There is always something else to do out in the shop while you are waiting for a coat of whatever to flash in the booth,masking,prepping etc.[/quote]
You said much of what I was thinking. When spraying solvent in the heated down draft I always used slower products (unless it was a very very small area/part). Too many advantages not to use the slow solvent. Even for spot repairs it works very well. Generally I would follow longer flash times between sealer and base as well as between coats of base. Before clearing I would allow a flash time appropriate to the number of coats (ie: 2 coats of black base, no sealer 20 minutes before clear…tri-stages I would wait at least 1 hour). Longest I have ever waited before clearing is close to 4 hours (on a large 2-tone job).
Now the water is a different story, far fewer problems (at least for me).
[quote=”Jayson M” post=15203]Hey they are open on Saturdays….road trip[/quote]
Come down here for a visit…maybe I’ll sell you on the Benefits of water. Want to try some Envirobase? If you are at all interested in PPG or DuPont I can help you out. I guarantee you will like the way envirobase sprays (not to mention the colour matches). :cheers
Ok, I’ll shut up now. Enjoy your solvent 😛
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15159]Lesonal is far from what we consider a cheap product over here. I have used quite a bit of Lesonal Nick and find it to be a very good product. Great value imo. We have some real cheap and shitty clears sold in the states.
BTW that that Mitsubishi looks good!;)[/quote]
Exactly. Lesonal is a mid-range product, much better than Omni, Nason, Limco etc. I used to use Lesonal several years ago and found it to be one of the easiest systems to use. Considering how well the colour matches are and how well it works,I think it is one of the best products available for the price. I love the Pro-Air clear when spraying in a non-baking booth.
Welcome to the site.
Fish eyes can be caused by several things, but to narrow it down, it is from 1 of 2 areas.
1. contamination on the part (sounds like you are taking care of this well)
2. Environment (tools, air line, equipment, rags, clothes etc)How bad are the fish eyes? Are they only in 1 area or all over the entire bumper? Can they be sanded and polished out?
This topic has been discussed many times here…we should make a sticky for it or write up an article.
[quote=”ding” post=15104][quote=”Ben” post=15082][quote=”RatStang” post=15075]The way you guys swarm to drama. Startin ta’ think you’re all a bunch of women. :lol:[/quote]
Maybe we should have a special gossip forum. On that topic, do these coveralls make my butt look big? :rofl[/quote]
No its not the coveralls, its just your A$$ thats big :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
You guys are so mean, I think I’ll go cry in the corner… :S
…or not :cheers
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=15084]Well, that’s confusing! The label on my tinters says ‘Deltron’ and it is referred to as ‘DBC’ here. I did notice that it said ‘Global’ on the label though.
Does anyone have the formula in Global please, and are there any variants or is it just available in a masterblend?
Cheers,
Sime[/quote]Can you post a photo of your toners. That sounds like PPG is labeling the toners differently down there.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=15076]Thanks Wydir.
PPG must list the tinters with different codes in the ‘states, because my PPG Deltron tinters start with ‘D’, ie. ‘D895 – Colour Blender’, ‘D740 – Black’ etc
Not sure though, because I found this US site that lists Deltron with D codes like I have:
[url]http://usautopaint.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/ppgglobal.htm[/url]
The Blue and Violet…are they solids or transparents?[/quote]
Those toners (the D740 etc) are Global toners, the ones Wydir posted are for Deltron. At least that is how it is in all of North America.
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=15006][quote=”Ben” post=14992][quote=”dcturcotte” post=14962]I use to spray it lighter as well, but as I got more confident with the system I started laying it down a lot wetter. As far as orientation goes I really love this system for how the metallics lay down. sometimes on very metallic colors I do two control coats but it has more to do with personal piece of mind then something that is necessary[/quote]
So you basically do 1 heavy coat for coverage rather than several lighter coats (before orientation coat, obviously).
I find that if I do several lighter coats it dries in less than 1 minute between coats so I have no need to leave the booth. I definitely have more experimenting to do…[/quote]
I would classify my first two coats as medium wet, a little of the wet side maybe, but definitely not overly heavy. followed by orientation. When I know a color has sh!t coverage I’ll do 3 medium wet coats.
You know as well as I that there’s no one right way to do it, If several lighter coats works better for you I say if it ain’t broke don’t fix it :dnc :rock[/quote]
Exactly. Its a matter of doing whats best for you…but I still like to see what others are doing, and possibly learning better or alternate methods.
- AuthorPosts