Ben Hart
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[quote=”MoCoke” post=15000]u can get away with the cheap brands but ull probably end up doubling ur buffing time and material consumption. once i got a good gun i wanted to slap myself for not having one sooner[/quote]
That is very true.
I know they aren’t cheap, but it is worth spending the money. You’ve been at school that long and they haven’t taught you about guns/equipment? :huh:
What exactly do you intend on painting (single stage urethane, solvent base, water base, polyurethanes, high solids clear, urethane primer, sealer…etc). These are all sprayed best with the appropriate gun/gun setup. There is no 1 gun that can spray everything well with only one aircap and needle/nozzle set.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=14991]Your theory is correct. It can be done but you would need to get a couple things lined up first.
If you don’t know how to spray a candy then I wouldn’t attempt to blend one.
You need to know the candy color used and the basecoat color used.
Once you figure out the colors used do a few sprayouts to determine the number of coats used to achieve the desired shade.
Give yourself plenty of blend room, you might need it.
Make sure your ground color is blended well.
From there blend as you would a 3-stage. try not to over apply excessive coats past where your ground color is.
It’s not impossible but it is a more difficult blend to pull off. It also depends on the colors used. Some candy colors suck to spray more than other. Also some basecoat colors make it easier. For example a red base under a red candy would be easier to work with than a silver base under a red candy.
Maybe Jim C will chime in as this is field of expertise. I have blended a few candies before but not a ton of them.[/quote]
I saw a House of Colour training video that showed how to blend their Kandy (as well as blending their clear, but that is a totally different discussion).
Basically everything you said is bang on. The keys being a proper ground coat and doing a let down panel/being prepared.
I also agree that if it is something you’ve never tied that I would not recommend it.
WTF?
Welcome to the site Brian.
What guns have you used in the past, and what have you thought of them? What do you intend on spraying with them?
Most people I know prefer either Sata or Iwata. I do like Devilbiss, but there seems to be few professionals (that I know) who use them on a regular basis. There are other decent brands as well, but those are probably the 3 biggest
[quote=”lild” post=14980]never would of thought of useing a heat gun for the edges, i always waited for it to dry well.[/quote]
I found the heat allowed it to stretch a bit and therefore, fold really easy
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=14962]I use to spray it lighter as well, but as I got more confident with the system I started laying it down a lot wetter. As far as orientation goes I really love this system for how the metallics lay down. sometimes on very metallic colors I do two control coats but it has more to do with personal piece of mind then something that is necessary[/quote]
So you basically do 1 heavy coat for coverage rather than several lighter coats (before orientation coat, obviously).
I find that if I do several lighter coats it dries in less than 1 minute between coats so I have no need to leave the booth. I definitely have more experimenting to do…
Timbo, no I haven’t received it.
Ryan…
I am considering one as a base gun (water). Do you find metallic orientation ok with the 7E7 aircap? I figured that setup might be a little overkill.Looks good! Now he’ll want everything repaired. Looks like a lot of work, that metal is stretched a good bit.
I assume the inner panels were not damaged, though.
[quote=”Stone” post=14966]oh … hell just grab a spray bomb of DTM engine paint and shoot it … it’s an engine block :pcorn:[/quote]
Thats what I’ve done on a couple of my own, and other than dieing off, they have held up really well.
Looks great!
One question, though. I assume you are spraying enviro base in the photos above. Do you normally spray it that wet, and how does that work for you? Our painter sprays it like that as well. When I spray it, I go a lot lighter, otherwise I find I tend to mottle any metallics.
Mind you, I may be spraying it almost as heavy, but with our booth/conditions maybe dries quicker.
Well, I did a bunch of blackout tape on a 2010 Civic today. I used a soapy water solution and rather than hosing it on, I put just enough on to make it slick. Put the tape on and used the squegee to remove all bubbles, then let it sit for about 10 minutes and dry. Then I went and put some heat to the edges to get them over. It needed more heat than I would normally do, but it worked well. They turned out great and the boss was very impressed (which is not good, since I will likely have to do many more then).
I had some scrap tape laying around so I practiced with it dry and with different liquids (water, soapy water, glass cleaner and alcohol) beforehand.
Thanks everyone for your input. Hopefully they all turn out this well. :clappy
could you soda blast it or something like that to help with abrasion?
Personally, I would just go straight epoxy.
Is the engine disassembled or in pieces? If it is pieces, could you have a machine shop dip it?
Some people will wash the panel with alcohol between steps to see if there has been enough progress made.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=14845][quote=”Ben” post=14843]I would look at the toners for the paint system you use and see how that colour sits and shifts (face and side tone).
red will either shift to orange or to violet. You should look for the toner that is closest to the centre of red and either just spray that toner (if it looks ok) or use a paint formula that tends to mostly utilize that toner. However, you need to think of the other 2 dimesions as well (value and chroma) to ensure the colour is bright/intense enough (saturation/chroma) and light enough (value, how black or white the colour is).
A colour chart or colour wheel for your paint system will help a lot. Your jobber should be able to hook you up with one, or at least show you one.[/quote]
hmmmm that sounds pretty deep ben:teach :teach :p :p :p[/quote]That’s why there is a photo of me on the wall at the College, and my name on a plaque. 😆
I may not actually be any good at what I do…but at least I know what I am doing… :whistle:
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=14842]shoot i can block all day with an air grinder it all depends on what the customer is paying for :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl mudhogs are hard ta beat but an 8 inch rotary can get ya flatter faster if ya hold ur mouth right:stoned :stoned :stoned[/quote]
Not for me…
I’ve torn the tendon in my elbow twice, so I have a hard time holding onto vibrating tools for very long. When I use an airboard it can get away from me and I either drop it or gouge the filler…more counterproductive and uncomfortable.
Besides, who doesn’t like the motion of blocking… 😆