Ben Hart
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I’ve used Spies solvent on a few jobs when I was in a DuPont shop. It seemed to have better colour matches than Chromabase and Cromax (at that time abyway). It seemed like a nice base, easy to spray.
[quote=”smooth” post=32687][quote=”Ben” post=32686]It will be here soon. Turns out I’m already signed up for the first training class/demo. I believe that will be in about a month. Appearantly they solved the fast drying issues and gave it slowed down better.[/quote]
The Sherwin not cutting it for ya Ben??? LOL[/quote]
It’s not too bad, a few quirks and such. My boss is a big RM/Glasurit fan, and the service from the BASF distributor is far better than SW. And service sells…
[quote=”deadchane” post=32685]What is done in practice?
Is the window removed for paint or would something like 3M Trim Masking tape be sufficient? I only need to scuff the area and hit with clear.
[img]http://www.szcl888.com/upload/2011/08/10/9ayw8j2nppdne1312969029.jpg[/img][/quote]
Every shop is a little different, but pretty much everywhere I have worked, we would remove glass like that. If the 3M trim tape (or other methods) work, then obviously removal isn’t necessary.
I haven’t worked on the older body style Grand Cherokee in a while, so I don’t know if the trim is flexible enough to use the trim tape. Some shops would just mask around it with 3/4″ tape. If you wind up doing that be careful not to over mask and try to get a piece of sandpaper wedged between the body and trim so you can sand it really well.
It will be here soon. Turns out I’m already signed up for the first training class/demo. I believe that will be in about a month. Appearantly they solved the fast drying issues and gave it slowed down better.
Its encapsulated glass, it needs to be cut out (like a windshield, held it with urethane)
Every clear reacts a little different and each gun is a little different. Anything from a 1.2 to a 1.4 would be ideal. Keep in mind with a small tip, you may have difficulty achieving minimum film build (particularly with clears with lower solid content).
I have a very similar opinion as Jayson.
If I were you, I would keep the RP for clear, keep your SATA HVLP for sealer and misc things (epoxy,etch etc), then get a Tekna for base. I am sure you could easily sell your iwata. That is, if you want to buy another gun. You do have a fairly good selection already and any seasoned painter should be able to get good results with your current selection…just many of us would prefer the Tekna.
I’ve sprayed PPG, Sikkens and SW waterbourne with the Tekna and it has been amazing with all of them.
I heard about this a few months ago. My boss got quite excited about the idea of it…if everything pans out we will probably demo some once its available and possibly eventually switch to it when our current contract is up.
I would like to say you will probably be fine. 500 degrees is probably pushing it a little far though. Is this some high performance application that is going to he seeing this much heat?
Your best bet is to contact Akzo and find out. I would also be concerned about how the base and undercoats will react to the high temp and rapid repeated heating/cooling cycles.
Looks great all together. So that’s a Ford, not a Sterling? Looks like its in great shape.
Glad to hear the news. Guess your old boss couldn’t have been too mad at you to ask you back.
Looks good. Did you guys open the hood while spraying to get in the front fenders a bit?
That Omni AU sure is a nice product for the price.
The single stage is really nice. You won’t notice a difference between the SS and B/C… Provided the colour and texture is matched just like any other paint job. When I started off, long before the low voc laws (and waterbourne), we (and probably most) shops did a lot if collision work in Single Stage. Until you take sandpaper to it, you can’t tell.
One thing to make a note of, on the work order, if they are paying for base clear, you should technically be spraying base clear.
Single stage in the end is cheaper and easier to apply, less margin of error. In solid colours single stage looks as good or better than base/clear. A good quality urethane single stage will be as durable as base/clear. Only down side in my mind is that the uv protection won’t be as great (more so on uv sensative colours like red). But you can always do an intermix coat with clear (using what is compatible as per the tech sheet) to remedy this.
Deltron is a nice product. It is easy to use. I would use the PPG Global 894 clear if you want a great, durable clear.
However, I do have to throw it out there… If it were mine going white, I would use a good qualit Single stage like Concept.