Barry Overby

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Viewing 15 posts - 301 through 315 (of 470 total)
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  • December 5, 2009 at 11:27 pm #17547

    Poly primer is my guess.

    December 4, 2009 at 8:16 am #17466

    It’s about time you got something done on waldo.

    You doing SS or bc/cc on it?

    November 30, 2009 at 12:33 am #17339

    What are you doing for a grill on the 4″ ?

    November 29, 2009 at 6:48 am #17327

    The IR’s I have are lightweight and work OK. But they just plain feel crappy to me when used side by side with the hutchins or dynabrade.

    There used to be a guy on ebay that always kept a listing for dynabrade orbitals really cheap.. $115 or so.

    November 29, 2009 at 3:08 am #17318

    Only time I’ve had those activators go bad is when I left the little foil disc out of the cap by accident.

    I always pop the tamperproof cap and toss it as soon as I open a can and try to wipe the rim down before I screw the cap back on. Those things will set up like concrete and require channel locks to get the cap back off.

    The metal caps suck, the plastic spout type ones that alot of other lines use are much easier to deal with.

    November 29, 2009 at 3:01 am #17317

    I’ve got the 4151 and 4152,

    buy a hutchins or dynabrade. :ohmy:

    My hutchins red top composite is my favorite sander.

    November 28, 2009 at 10:02 pm #17310

    Very nice. 🙂

    Welcome to the site.

    November 27, 2009 at 2:19 am #17272

    I haven’t used my gun washer in quite awhile.

    I usually just wipe all the paint out that I can with a dry paper towel,

    slosh some thinner around in it then dump,

    add some clean thinner, percolate it (drop the air pressure under 5psi, loosen the air cap, pull the lid and squeese the trigger),

    Remove the air cap, unhook the air hose and let the thinner I just percolated with run through the gun,

    hit the gun body, fluid tip and air cap with some aerosol carb cleaner,

    wipe everything dry with a paper towel and a q-tip and call it a day.

    I’ll do a full teardown, clean and lube whenever I feel it needs it but perking the gun frequently really helps with the teardown frequency.

    This procedure is mainly for my primer and clear guns, I teardown my basecoat gun everytime I change colors.

    November 27, 2009 at 1:42 am #17269

    Those kick panels are shaping up nicely.

    $275 is dirt cheap.

    That’s the kind of stuff I did for a living back in the early to mid 90’s and even then we were getting over $300 for a set of glassed kicks like these in my truck that are beat all to hell now.

    [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/98ad3.jpg[/IMG]

    On the other hand you couldn’t give any of that stuff away around here these days. Car audio is dead in these parts. Only one shop left within a 50 miles radius and he is struggling.

    November 26, 2009 at 3:46 am #17240

    I like the pink side better.

    November 25, 2009 at 6:22 am #17196

    Welcome. :cheer:

    November 24, 2009 at 2:59 am #17168

    [b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
    [quote]
    on the mustangs ….. You also have to work out the Vinyl texture on the door panel so it isn’t so obvious.

    [/quote]

    I just poly prime the whole door on those and get rid of the texture all together. :whistle:

    November 24, 2009 at 2:48 am #17166

    Damn you Han. 👿

    Look what you made me do. :blush:

    I can’t take the peer pressure, the kitty hair would’ve been a whole lot quicker. 😉

    [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/jv37.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/jv40.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/jv38.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/jv41.jpg[/IMG]

    November 23, 2009 at 5:54 am #17155

    Looks like it laid down nice. :cheer:

Viewing 15 posts - 301 through 315 (of 470 total)