Nelson Hays
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looks nice
same body style I drive every day.
:rock
[quote=”ding” post=22990][quote=”Nexson” post=22984]Yup, I wanted to try out this sealer, so I got it in black, so now that I like it, I will pick up gray and black maybe white.[/quote]
If you already have black, then just pick up white. That way you can make any shade of grey you need.[/quote]Yup.
It’s weird how different the sealer/primer changes silver base. Do you know what color sealer Honda used in the first place?
My Truck has ended up being a job like this….. argh!
For the stuff I’m doing, in a cold, damp environment, I don’t mind having to wait. I use Fast reducers on everything, and I still double the flash times on certain things :rock
I’m in the process of building a ’77 F150. It’s got some issues, but I am hoping to get it into paint this winter, if I can scrape up the funds for the rest of the parts.
SPI should work for me.
I’ll try the HB primer and W&G remover.
thanks fellas
Even Epoxy? Ive tried 2 other epoxies – Martin Senour and PPG. I thought SPI was better at 1/4 the price of PPG and 1/3 of MS.
I’ll get some of the solvent cleaner next order.
thanks
I want a terrazzo floor in my next shop. Maybe I’ll do the same in the booth :dnc
[quote=”RickL” post=22479]I’d recommend Super Assilex Sky (P500) It cuts like 320 but finishes like 800+
Perfect for primer finishing!
[url=http://www.eagleguys.com/Eagle_191_1508___Super_Assilex_Sky_Sheets___25_sheets_box-details.aspx]www.eagleguys.com[/url][/quote]huh. I’ve never heard of the stuff, but I’m not a pro painter (or anywhere near), and I’m a tool junkie…. so I’ll proabably have to buy some to check it out :rock
Anybody else use the Super Assilex system?
[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=22564]
On second thought do this and turn it into a man cave[/quote]A Guinness idea! Genius!
So my question is…. if tile can be scrubbed down (muriatic acid and a pressure washer) – why lay tile? smoother surface? what about ground concrete?
The idea of a replaceable surface is nice. Constant control. If youre rolling out dent-fixes you can let ‘er go for a year or 2. If you’re doing the final touches on a high dollar restoration, get some new paper/carpet down.
I don’t have a booth. What do I know :nothingtoad
if you frame it up in such a way that replacing the plastic is easy, and use high powered fans (whatever CFM for the size of booth) and have actual paint booth filters going in and out, and have a metric buttload of good quality lights, and have a heat source isolated from the fumes, you can do pretty good work. I have had a couple of bad ones, and they have just pissed me off…
How far will you take something like that out? I mean the job was crap to begin with, and an insurance adjuster would probably want you to just slather more filler on it and call it a day… I hate insurance companies…
hat about air longboards?
I have a big, and growing, collection of sanding blocks and longboards. It seems there’s always just a perfect tool for the job.
so how heavily do you pros use air longboards? inline or orbital? In my small area of expertise I have had just as many issues with using power tools as they have solved, until I learned exactly how long to use the air tool before switching to hand tools. However, I know some guys that literally never sand by hand and manage to crank out some very nice work….
a 3/8″ orbital must hog it off there almost as much as a rotary!
part numbers? I only have a Hutchins 3500 (3/32) and I want a 3/16, or maybe a 3/8…. now you’ve got me thinking.
What’s the ‘spirit’ line? What exactly is the difference?
So what model of dynabrade are you guys running? 6″, 3/16 orbit, vac or non-vac – beyond that they still have several options.