Nelson Hays
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I learned most of what I know about polishing a couple years ago on autopia.org. great site for that stuff. Although most of the guys on that forum are exclusively detailers, many of them really know paint well. Opened my eyes to lots of different types of polish, brands I never heard of, pad types and sizes, best tool/product for the job, etc.
It’s funny you mention the LPH-400, slower than molasses in january gun, I love so dearly as not being good for metallic base. I had never heard that. The first 2 metallic paints I ever shot were a silver and a deep blue, both with the stock tip on the iwata. I had bad mottling on the first try with the silver, because I was trying to spray it like clear…… oh well. I redid it and it was just fine. The blue was my first attempt at a blend, and one blended area I literally could not tell where the old paint started and the new paint stopped. I just spray it out real lightly, and did 3-4 coats. That probably sucks for you production guys, but it worked fine for me. SW/MS paint, cold weather reducer.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=18028]naw i never used a rubber how do ya think i ended up with 8 kids:chair :chair :chair [/quote]
:rock good for you…. I think :wak I’m terrified at the thought of one baby….:blink:
Well after some struggling I just carefully pried the thing off.
Have any of you guys used ‘rubber-toughened’ CA glue? It’s magical. for little glue jobs like this, gluing the metal studs back into the plastic trim, It’s quick and easy, and quite strong. it’s even faster than the duramix 2 part fast cure, takes less time, doesn’t use any fancy tips. It’s great, but like all CA you’ve got to have the activator or it will take hours to cure on it’s own.
I went LV iwata due to my pansy compressor, and I love it, but as some on here will tell you it’s slower than molasses in january. If i had a real comp and a real booth I’d probably have an HVLP Sata for at clear, or try to get a compliant iwata from europe
careful Bondo. Ben will sick the Canadian military on you.:whistle:
Here’s a picture of me whooping a canadian cop when he tried to pull me over :deadhorse
It’s ok, he has health insurance
hahahahahagood ol’ American Ingenuity…. Chinese parts, probably assembled in Canada. haha :rock
I figured I just stripped the first one, went on to the next…. nope. I noticed the stud was spinning, and that’s where I stopped. I’ll to see if I can get some vise grips on the end of EVERY ONE while I loosen the sticky nuts… on paint covered threads….. over locktite….. GM needs to die :deadhorse
thanks for the confirmation fellas
looking killer, Paint Guy. on wait, wrong place :compsmash
very nice shop.
so there is a central vacuum system that feeds all of those lines? It must have a crapload of vacuum to make enough lift to do much at the end of a hose that long.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17828]well ive seen a 4 gallon smear on a ext chevy cab crack so i musta been pushing here a lil on the depth side on the other hand wasnt really that thick but was pretty much a 4 gallon roofskin in a can thing back when i used ta work for someone else…..the mud was the new z grip back in the early 90s ended up doing a roof skin for the guy yrs later at my shop funney thing was the owner only came ta me cuz my former boss closed his shop after i quit working for him otherwise my old boss woulda had ta redo it a 3rd time some of the stuff that guy had me fix was just insane:wak :wak[/quote]
awesome.
I had a buddy in high school that rolled his little toyota and mudded the thing back into shape. his roof was so crinkled it was ridiculous, and he dumped I don’t know how many gallons of mud on it….. he drove into school one day with that roof in primer and I though he welded a new skin on! he blocked it out incredibly well.
that cab was scrapped a few months later….
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=17812][quote=”bodymanhelper” post=17809]It you over an 1/8″ the bodyfiller can crack[/quote]
Is there any documentation from company’s that sell filler, that state this in their data sheets.[/quote]
probably somewhere, but I haven’t seen it.
It really depends on where it’s going. if it’s at a point on a vehicle where the body has a little more natural stretch you might have an issue within a month at 1/8″. if it’s a nice strong corner that you can’t pull out very well it could be fine for years with 1/4″ of filller.
I have seen some guys do quick and dirty jobs for years piling on 1/4″ of kitty hair in rough stuff and only have a rare failure….. not that I’d recommend it.
it is common to see guys slather on the kitty hair or duraglass in door jambs and whatnot where there are seams and spot welds and whatnot to flatten all that stuff out, but I really don’t like the idea of using reinforced filler on the outer sheetmetal. especially on a large flat area of thin steel.
I would totally program an alarm siren to blast their annoying ringtone. :rock
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17741]hate ta say this but i luv that color[/quote]
probably because you were alive in 1972 :silly:
that is a mighty fine body you got there :dnc
nice work, despite the old school color…
sweet!
so much for all the whiners saying Iwatas are slow. EAT IT! :rock