Nelson Hays
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I’ve got the 4240, which is great as a bonder but leaves lots of pinholes, and I still have some 5885 left – which is crap. I hate that stuff. gums up paper worse than anything I’ve used – supposed to dry in minutes, but it has to be FULLY cured before you dare sand it without risking chunks of it falling off.
I was going to say 3m is the worst for sanding :rofl
maxim is good stuff, and comes right out of a standard tube in a caulking gun
of all the plastic bonding products Ive used I have consistently ran into the same problem. pinholes, and they don’t sand worth a crap. in my mind repairing bumpers is a losing battle, but when they are really reinforced the repair should last fine. most of my work is interior parts, and whenever possible I stick to ABS plastic, CA glue, and poly fillers.
I want to try that fancy pants stapler thing that was posted here a couple months back. hot wire embedded in the bumper to hold it straight, and a little plastic filler to smooth it out. I’ve seen lots of bonded plastic come apart later because it wasn’t properly reinforced, and it takes a while to do it right. the staple stuff looks fast.
Ben, why don’t you like the air powered plastic welders? I think having a plastic wire-feed welder is pretty wicked!
a couple years back I went with some relatives to a friends house up in CleElum. Great spot, and he had 8 machines :clappy it was a blast.
looks like fun.
that is a really nice car, and he did amazing work rebuilding it. I’m sure that kind of work is everyday stuff to most of you guys, but cutting and welding on a unibody car is a scary thought to me. Or at least whatever I put back toether would have about a 1″ variance in the gaps :rofl
the spoiler looks like poo, but I pretty much hate all spoilers
this is what I saw. low profile, basically an air saw.
[IMG]http://www.btbtools.com/Image/2_Shopping_Cart_Detail_Images/WKTEC-BX_z.jpg[/IMG]
of course my lifelong dream is to have a Pacer or Gremlin. 70’s had some real doozy’s too :stoned
a Bi-drive Recreational All-terrain Transporter! Good for everything! :rock
Someday I will own a Chrysler Le Baron.
I had an ’82 Subaru BRAT for a month or so, but the thing was so incredibly rusty I didn’t want to fall down through the floor while I was driving. That would be a great car if I could find one in good shape.
well that’s a lot cheaper than the windshield tool I saw. It was some serious dough. I figure I’ll stick with the $15 hand tool :dnc
the car you linked to there looks REALLY clean! not my favorite style of car, but to each his own. I really don’t like much of anything from the 80’s. The music, the hair, the sweaters. I’m thankful I wasn’t around for most of them :lol1
honestly I get right on the edge of my 7″ pads on a regular basis doing very small stuff. I’m a stereo guy, and it’s very unusual I paint anything big.
I wish I could build up a sweet paint booth myself, but If I actually wanted to get into the paint business I’d have to fork over for a certified booth….. poo
Mine is a 2″ PVC framed visquine booth, and it’s darker than the deepest darkest africa. I tore it down and built a larger one of 2×4’s, still too dark, and now I’m using an entire room of my new shop – it’s the ‘detailing’ bay, so it’s got plywood on the walls and hardcore paint. I’ve got vapor tight light fixtures going on the walls, and I’ll spray the walls and doors with liquid paint mask before any paint. If I do a complete car I’ll have to rethink fans…
that’ll do
on classic cars the sheetmetal was NEVER perfectly straight to begin with, so fixing it is tough.
on a MK 2 it shouldn’t be too bad in that respect, as long as the body metal is in good shape, and the car hasn’t been crunched.
the bigger the block the better. that’s about all I know. beyond that, all you need is a butt load of skill. :rock