Nelson Hays
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[quote=”MoCoke” post=15924]well i might be speaking from my as$ but i was scuffing up a rear gate on a 07 caravan a couple months ago and i was just doing it normally around the edge of the glass and POP! the glass shattered. first time it happend to me too. :unsure:[/quote]
:wak
huh. well that’s certainly something to look in to!
that’s news to me. the etching effect for glass and plexi is typically lasered, but I’ve sandblasted it without issues. of course it wasn’t thin glass….. I really don’t know about tempered vs. non.
I can’t imagine a scuffing could be a problem. just enough for a urethane clear to adhere, which wouldn’t take much.
save those for a company flyer :rofl
[quote=”IAMRICO” post=15864][quote=”timbo” post=15687]Takes application to make it look that way huh..HA! try the poly trick on that one.
;)[/quote]
Not trying to jack the thread but what is the poly trick?[/quote]you can spread a little glaze filler over your runs – makes them much easier to block out flat. when the filler is gone, the clear is flat. it’s a great trick. next time I paint a car I’ll keep an extra can of filler handy for this :dnc
[quote=”Muleskinner” post=15863]Go for it BW…the VERY worst that could happen is you don’t like it and knock it back off .;)[/quote]
not if I sand the glass to make the paint stick….. :blink:
it’s all sounding like you guys are right. The only thing I can see as being cool would be some neat effects and finishes on the glass if I use paint. If the glass won’t be seen at all from the inside of the car, the finish can look like I sprayed it in the wood shop with june bugs stuck in it and you’d never tell from the outside :rock . I could spray cool looking paints with effects and stenciled in logos and whatnot – no prob.
for the regular stuff, I’m sure you guys are right. I’m getting into tinting here at my shop, I just hate it. I’m just going to charge a premium, like I usually do for jobs I don’t like :whistle: For a couple windows on my own truck it will be easy since they’re darn near flat, and especially when they’re outside the vehicle. super easy job. :clappy
I’m not thinking of any special ‘liquid tint,’ I just was thinking candy black, which sprays like clear. If you wanted to get fancy you could shoot a couple coats of clear on top of it and wetsand it :weights
sounds like a fun way to spend 3 days….
I’m a stereo guy, so my view of this is a little different, but I’ve seen lots of guys building ‘walls’ where the whole back half of a vehicle is blocked off with subwoofers facing forward with the baffle sealed up to the walls, ceiling, and floor. the back and side windows are usually sprayed out rattle can black, and they’re usually not sanded or anything… not the best way to go, but it works for them.
I was just thinking while I have the door glass and rear window out of my truck it would be easy to scuff it and shoot a couple coats of candy. maybe I’m insane. I’ll do a quick test and see how it goes.
I’ve done that with primer on a couple bumpers, but never a whole car! bummer man. I added reducer, accelerator…. and forgot hardener….
a real booth usually has an intake running 4′ wide down most of the entire length of the booth, and the entire floor is a grate for the exit air. a small filter area means higher speed of air, and that’s not good.
If you’re spraying small stuff it would be best to build a mini booth just big enough for what you’re doing. that way you can control the air easier.
welcome to the club.
there’s always the issue of those little box fans not being sealed motors, but I’ve used them for a long time and haven’t had one blow up yet.
you really do need an intake, with warm air coming in. it will take some getting fancy in most cases.
I got some sealed vaportight housings for my 8′ strip lights. works good keeping the bulbs sealed up, and you can scrub them down when I hose my water proof walls. HOWEVER – you need to spray mask them to keep the overspray off.
hockey pucks! that’s an awesome way to do it! I don’t hear of canadian innovations very much :lol1
last time I used chunks of tire. and currently I have my comp sitting on it’s shipping pallet…. just like you’re not supposed to do.
regarding the wiring, my dad is an electrician, and I’m a low voltage wireman. I don’t have a disconnect at the compressor. I do at my table saw, but apparently the compressor didn’t need one according to the NEC code. The MC cable (flex) going to the wall has to be within a certain distance to meet code, or it will need to be strapped to the stud. we mounted the box for power up higher, so a 2′ chunk of flex just came straight out to the compressor’s switch.
romex is not rated for a commercial environment, nothing to do with current capacity. My shop doesn’t even have romex in the walls. all conduit or flex.
By the way, poly primers are sweet if you haven’t used them.
My uncle owned a body shop years ago, and when poly primers first came out they were the go-to HB. He said it was the norm to shoot an etch, then pile on the poly. they sanded out to 80 and handed it to the painter. the following year they learned the shrinkage in poly’s of that era was a serious issue. sand scratches showing up months later …. 😡
I really think they have nailed it down now, and I haven’t heard of that happening for a long time.
I love the stuff, and when I get around to fixing my beater truck I’m sure I’ll need a 1/4″ of it.
Ben knows what’s up. Direct To Metal can be urethane nowadays.
All I know is, it builds higher than epoxy, and sands easier. I’ve only used it on bare metal patches once, and it’s been a year without issues.
keep in mind, 99% of what i do is fiberglass. so my experience on car bodies is quite limited.
I’m a hardcore epoxy fan, and I use it every chance I get. bare metal, epoxy. seal up anything, epoxy. build a little before a HB primer, epoxy.
I also use Slicksand frequently, but I don’t use it on body metal. …not sure why I don’t…. just fear of issues related to that much primer, I suppose.
you can pile the primer on a little spot without too much worry. the tech sheets will tell you how much you can build, and then remember you’re sanding off a bunch of what you just applied. it can be quite thick without a problem.
the evercoat glaze putty, or similar, is real nice for those small low areas. sands out real smooth, and dries quick. I like how it blends into primer better than regular filler. but I’m no pro. what do I know.
I like to PILE on the primer coats at first, block like mad, hoping I wont have to reprime, but I usually have to… if I hit metal, but it’s nice and flat, then an epoxy seal coat takes care of it. I also have a DTM urethane, that builds pretty well. I like it a lot. I can use that to fill in some low areas as well as cover any bare metal spots.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15733]
I would be interested in some tips on how others tape. This seems like a thread where everybody can pick up a few new tricks.[/quote]definitely
I got a box of 3m foam tape when I painted my first time, and in my research learned there were like 4 different kinds. 3m’s website had the breakdown for the best place to use whatever type/shape. When I went to NAPA they had no idea there was anything besides the 1/2″. So I went to the body shops. They had no idea either!
are you guys having issues with bridging because you’re only using the one size of foam tape?
The car I was doing I needed 3 different kinds, ideally. It didn’t end up being a problem, but I never had any problems with the one style.