Nelson Hays
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ideally sandblast them after a hot tanking, before machining.
now, I think a good rough scotchbriteing, and possibly a wire brush in the nooks and crannies, then rely on epoxy’s incredible adhesion. I love the stuff.
FRP – no question. I decided to go cheap and put 1/4″ ply on my ‘detail bay’ walls at my shop, which I also paint in, and painted them with floor paint. it SUCKS. no comparison to FRP, which can be scrubbed/pressure washed.
in my experience roll up doors never seal well.
:deadhorse
every time I see this icon it makes me laugh.
[quote=”Jinx” post=14860]Thats what I was looking for… something that I can get 70 80% done and then go over things with a long block with guide coat a few times.[/quote]
exactly. air tools are great, but they require their own skills or they will end up costing you more time that just straight blocking out of the gate.
I find for what I do I use a cheese grater quite a bit. I’m pretty lousy at spreading bondo in the first place, and I’m a stereo guy slathering up the filler on crazy curvy little parts. grating it down gets you real close right away, and a blocking with 40 grit by hand flattens things out in a hurry.
looks like it fits to me! way better than i could have done…
looks real good. never heard of max meyer clear….. what company is that?
sweet
is there really a reason to go with a top dollar light? seems like UV lamps (grow lights/reptile lights) could work….. hmm
how do the rattle cans spray? I mentioned the stuff to the local shop and the owner was very intrigued, but I didn’t know if it was worth the investment or not.
how high of production do you need to be doing to merit a uv setup? what does a good lamp cost?
but you definitely think it’s worth it for the repair shop? the cost of primer per use and up front cost of a light must save you quite a bit of time.
what kind of light do you use?
and does UV have any issues with compatibility? does it have to be sealed before base?
I’ve found a number of different heat lamps for baking traditional solvent clears and whatever else. They say water based paints cure in less than 6 minutes…. which has me thinking.
How do water based primer compare to UV in price and build thickness? And what are EPA regulations like? I don’t have a booth, so everything I do is illegal….. what are the rules on water based products?
[quote=”timbo” post=14449]1 quart set up of epoxy should do.
1 Gal setup of urethane to top it off and have some left over.
Get roughest parts to 180 grit and the rest 180-320.
Apply 1-2 wet coats of epoxy especially to the bare metal areas…..you did tape it up first huh?
Let the epoxy flash as recommended then apply your urethane.
Wait over nite or next day before sanding.
Guide coat.
Block with 400 wet for solids and 600 wet for metallics.Single Stage paint is what you prob need.
Enamel will be the cheapest top coat.
Urethane most durable.
Solid color most user friendly.[/quote]word
I have new lines in my shop, and the single thing that made the biggest difference was making the line right out of the compressor go up 8′ in the air. My big water trap is right there, and after the compressor runs a couple days I still hardly get a drop out of the filter.
order up SPI epoxy – fantastic stuff. I’m at the point where I’m finding reasons to use up my Napa epoxy primer, which was twice as much…
think about overspray on glass – it sticks pretty well.
I use lots of plexi in the interior stuff, and painting the back is a great way to get a nice deep color and have no fear of scratching it up. of course plastic isn’t going to be as tough as glass
shoot some on straight, unsanded glass and see how easy it is to scrape off. then you’ll know. I’ve never seen adhesion promoter for glass