Nelson Hays

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  • April 12, 2010 at 3:42 am #20623

    sweet. I have never seen a floor replacement go that smooth….. that looks amazing

    March 23, 2010 at 7:17 am #20291

    I think even if you end up with a little smaller machine (5hp lets say instead of 10hp) when you buy industrial quality that’s what makes the difference. then you’re looking at spending $1500, or $2500 – and that’s going to last for the rest of your life in a small shop! then the badboy for $2500 isn’t so bad a price. compared to $600 for a crapper that doesn’t keep up, and replacing it every 5 years no matter what you do.

    March 21, 2010 at 2:48 am #20249

    I’m drooling all over the Eaton 7.5 hp 3 phase 120 gallon vertical – a little over $2000, ……plus freight to alaska….. poo

    March 13, 2010 at 11:36 pm #20060

    where did this go? I don’t remember any voting or anything? I thought I had it in the bag!

    March 6, 2010 at 9:27 pm #19925

    I dry spray like a champ. that’s all it takes! haha. I wonder if it’s possible to have a ‘runny’ bumper. I can do that as well!

    Often I shoot pieces flat and with a slight texture – I do almost all interior work and custom trim. just many thin coats of rattle can flat black gets what I want most of the time. I don’t like the spray texture very well because it’s usually too course a texture.

    for a bumper – I’d say you don’t want it real course. just looking more like bare plastic bumper roughness, but consistent. try some flat rattle can as a test – just shoot something small and see what I mean. you can duplicate the idea with poly primer like suggested with several thin light coats dusted on, then a few coats of thin dusted single stage flat black. shouldn’t be that hard. lots of thin coats are what keep it consistent and easier to control. trying to hog on consistent texture all at once – that’s a killer

    March 3, 2010 at 10:12 pm #19868

    sounds good. I really wish mechanics were regulate here in the US, as well. It bugs me that a bum can work on your car and get away with it… lots of butchered cars around here…

    good plan, and whether it comes out to more money or not it shows you take your work seriously. that’s why I got certified in my trade.

    February 28, 2010 at 4:03 am #19778

    Sorry to hear the news. Well get this car looking so good it would make him proud.

    Your body work is coming along really well.

    February 27, 2010 at 4:36 am #19760

    I haven’t tried the 4:1, but I do use slick sand on a regular basis. I love the stuff. I wouldn’t wetsand it simply because it’s so porous it would take a while for the water to dry out of it…. and I usually don’t sand it that fine. go up to 180 and shoot another primer layer.

    Epoxy, filler, more epoxy, slicksand, blocked, more epoxy, 2k urethane primer, base, clear. epoxy layer in there for a sealer if needed. that’s my method

    February 23, 2010 at 2:16 am #19702

    on the plastic saturn I did I ended up having to paint more than I wanted to because while I thought I’d just pull off the pinstripes with a stripe-off wheel, I actually ended up heating up the paint enough that it realeased from the plastic door skins…… didn’t do that on metal. it sucked. I went from blending into the front doors to a complete…. and while I was at I I painted the back bumper and roof since clear was starting to peel.

    so on a job like this with racing stripes it sounds like you pretty much have to do a complete….. bummer

    February 22, 2010 at 8:57 am #19692

    ….bump

    what’s standard operating procedure for body shops with pinstriped cars? I know it must come up all the time

    February 19, 2010 at 6:09 am #19642

    $75/hr….. and I usually end up billing out for about 1/2 of my time spent….

    February 16, 2010 at 2:33 am #19593

    [b]Nexson wrote:[/b]
    [quote]lol, nelson, im not sure wether to belivbe you or not lol[/quote]

    I thought by the fact that I am COMPLETELY OWNING the run competition it was obvious…. I was dead serious…. I do what it takes to win competitions. I’m very competitive :whistle:

    February 15, 2010 at 8:09 am #19580

    [b]Nexson wrote:[/b]
    [quote]how about how to adjust your gun for clear[/quote]

    oh… you’re supposed to adjust it?….

    February 13, 2010 at 2:52 am #19515

    I got a set of flexible Kblocks on TCPglobal. I’m really happy with them.

    February 12, 2010 at 4:52 am #19490

    I guess I never thought about it on the rims I’ve painted. I’ve sandblasted off chrome and shot polyprimer to prep for paint, ground down and filled in corroded aluminum, all sorts of time-wasting projects, but never worried too much about the paint code.

    couldn’t you find something close and seal and paint? sounds like you want an exact color, but I’ve never seen a wheel paint code in my life…. I haven’t been around long….

Viewing 15 posts - 421 through 435 (of 441 total)