Nelson Hays
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In my experience, poly over epoxy, and vice versa, is a pretty forgiving combo. But not all primers are alike.
You stripped the whole thing to raw glass? If so, I’d poly the whole works right away. There’s no need to epoxy the glass since adhesion will not be a problem, and you will undoubtedly have a lot of leveling to do.
Accuspray xeleventeen
I don’t spray huge panels all at once, but I thin my poly primer down and it hoses on just fine for me! With the gun wide open shooting slicksand thinned 10% I have to be really careful I don’t hose on too much.
Sata speed, no. But the time saved on cleanup is probably worth it anyway.
nelson at bobwires dot com
You come up fir the smaller and tastier deer? …I don’t know why in the hell you would go to thorn bay for any other reason…
LIQUID SUNSHINE!
those pics from the float plane were from a daY i was flown out to polish a boat.
May I whet your appetite?
The grass is greener up here. I swear.
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg57/nelsonhays/Shop%20Location/
Well there is some paperwork to lock this all in, but I really do need help around here in a bad, bad way! A painter would be a HUGE plus!
I know you can wire cars. Can you tint windows?
Tell her!
gel is a waste of time if you’re going to paint it in the end. The only reason to use gel coat is if you’re using a mold and the surface will be exposed at the end.
Any time I make a quick mold for a part that will be painted I actually use poly primer as my first layer in the mold. then I just pop it and sand away.
Well tell the wife you’re the king of your castle, and you’re putting your foot down!
Time to try out life in the beautiful rainforest of Alaska!
Bummer!
Want to move to Alaska?
Nice paint work!
[quote=”billgaino” post=27704]The attachment did not open in my Firefox browser, but I do “econo” jobs too. I have a sign in the window that says ECONOMY PAINT–We wash and throughly scuff the surface, remove loose paint, cover and tape, spray sealer, then topcoat, we paint over minor dents, but it will stick and be shiny. Maybe we can use leftover paint thats in stock. Cost $400-$700
VALUE PAINT-We sand the vehicle, prime the top sections with 2k urethane, resand, watersand, You may still have minor imperfections but the hood roof and deck will be SLICK. Cost $700-$1000
PREMIUM PAINT-We strip to bare metal the hood roof and trunk, build back with urethane 2 K primer. Block sand with 320 grit, watersand with 400-600 grit, tape spray with either base clear or high grade solid color urethane. Expect surface to be very flat high gloss. Some minor dust nibs, still very nice, this is our specialty. Cost $800- $1500
SHOW PAINT-Strip entire car to bare metal, repair all dings, coat in acid etch primer, build back surface with 2k urethane primer, block sand, water block, reprime as needed, wet inspect, paint door jambs, paint under hood and deck, dissaseble car as needed, paint with high solid urethane, or base clear with premium high solid clear, color sand and buff. expect trophies and lots of copliments! cost $3000-????
RESTORATION JOBS-Be prepared to get it done, we can price it a section at a time. stripping cost, metal repair cost, dissasembly cost, etc. On older vehicles you never know whats under the surface? I try to have a paint job for ANYBODY.[/quote]If that works for you, more power to you.
Here’s my perception of this approach: You will probably never get a steady flow of high-quality work. If the vast majority of your paint jobs are cheapos, the customers with money will not be impressed when they see your cars. If you do mostly high end restos, people will ship cars in from all around to get your quality level.
Other shops do only scratches and dings for insurance companies, and avoid repaints all together! Or at least repaints with a new color.
My point is simply this: How many body shops, or how many of you, do cheap paint jobs? I’ve seen a lot of cars painted with good quality paint, but no color change in the jambs or under the hood, masked emblems, etc. It looks like crap, and is permanent.
I would never waste my time.
If done right, something as stupid as PlastiDip will last 6-12 months with absolutely no issues. ‘Up to 3 years’ is the claim I keep hearing. It doesn’t chip, is difficult to peel, and if it’s sprayed right the finish really isn’t bad.
I can offer the kids a <$1000 option, and not have them all pissed when it doesn't last, or have my reputation turn to crap when their chalky paint does. I can offer the commercial guys a way to save their paint all winter long. PPF is hundreds of dollars, and it only helps, not stop all the chips, and it also looks like crap in a few years time.
Rims are brutal, admittedly, but if any of it starts to peel it is 100% repairable.
Am I insane?
Dag, that looks real nice.
sweet!
[quote=”Painterman1″ post=27568]I would say just put a few drops of black and put 2 or 3 coats and if I need to I will reclear with regular clear thus will help give it a deeper black look also[/quote]
black base? I’ve never actually used black base, just shot SS black urethane and cleared it when necessary.
How long does solvent base last anyway? I might have a quart on the shelf for an awful long time…..