Nelson Hays
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[quote=”ejb” post=27583]They also said no primer is needed.
[/quote]They lied
[quote=”ejb” post=27583][quote]what kind of plastic is it? [/quote]
To answer your question, I don’t know. It is what ever they made plastic parts in the 60s out of.
I am also using this same paint on the metal parts in the interior. They told me it can be used for both.Thanks
EB[/quote]You really need to find out. I would guess Urethane of some sort. Tough to say.
paint is paint, but the different plastics adhere differently, and off-gas sometimes, and literally seem to sucrete oils other times……
To be safe, sand it up good, blast it with solvent-based, anti-static plastic cleaner. let it dry, and do it again. spray plastic adhesion promoter, then epoxy primer, then whatever filler primer of choice if necessary to smooth out texture. The nastier the type of plastic, the rougher grit of sandpaper I would start with. If you don’t sand out the texture, it will be more pronounced than when you started.
Awesome. Thanks
I know some guys just dump a little black base coat in with the clear. Is there anything wrong with that?
Candy is friggin expensive…
There was a discussion on painting PP recently.
There also is some great info on FiberglassForums.
what kind of plastic is it?
[quote=”bloverby” post=27422]I suggest you go back to school for something a little more glamorous than auto body. Perhaps something along the lines of an elementary school physical education teacher? :whistle:[/quote]
Are you really fat? That’s a pre-requisite for that job.
:silly:
[quote=”JackMarshall” post=27426]If they are the soft type rubbers that lift away from the body slightly, I use a filler/bondo spreader to lift the rubber away and protect surrounding paintwork and use a red/grey scotchbrite to take it off.
Try a small area first though as sometimes the scotchbrite is too aggressive and tears the rubber up.[/quote]
that’s why I use a white scotch brite. maybe 0000 steel wool.
I have them around for tint work.
My first advice is move somewhere that has a stronger economy. They pay $12/hr at mcdonalds here….
Good body man here makes $70k/ year or so, but it takes years to be good, and fast, like Ben said.
I learned the hard way my LV400 is not a good gun for light metallics…..
lacquer thinner, white scotchbrite
they make sticky booth coatings.
i built a crappy booth, and it was miserable…
just buy a used booth that has enough light and a big enough fan.
the way I test adhesion is flex the plastic. Those parts you’re going to spray are not unlike a lot of the interior stuff I do. small, flexible junk. they are going to flex when he’s riding, and then, if it’s not PERFECT adhesion, they will crack and spider and chunks will fall off.
whether or not you strip to bare metal is up to you. Probably not necessary if the existing paint wasn’t falling off.
Block sanding needs to be done right. You should do a little more research on this.
My next gun purchase will be an RP digital 1.4 for clear.
My Iwata LV is nice for the work I do (lots of little jobs with SS) but SLOW
I also threw out my old primer guns. The 3m Accuspray is where it’s at!
it SUCKS..
The only way I have had consistent results is to get a really good tooth on it – 180 grit – then some REALLY thorough cleaning with solvent based plastic cleaner. Spray some adhesion promoter according to the directions, then shoot some epoxy to seal it up. DO NOT sand through the primer. You should be able to have those deep scratches close to leveled out, but some HB primer to finish it off.
I have had good results with less prep, but I have had some cataclysmic failures as well.
sweet. I have a few Dentside F1 and 250’s and I’m dying to get the project finished….. one of these years….
:rock