Matthew Smith
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Nice digs Dinger 😉
sweet 👿
Welcome bro.. I know Im a tad late, however i had some things that pulled me away from the site lately.. great folks here with a wealth of knowledge
Thats good to know Jim :cheer: That gets me one step closer to buying a gallon kit now
:blink: :huh: Cant believe you are etching that metal instead of simply applying 1 coat of epoxy and then going on and putting on your G2 in about an hour ole buddy.. While I know you guys use etch and you will make it work, I dont understand why you dont use the best product available.. Especially on an old classic :pcorn:
Sweet is that your boy you always talk about that does all the restorations brother??
Nice work Han 😉 .. U always put out slick A work bro!!! I would love to try out that 2020 clear, but I am afraid I would not get to buff it soon enough and it would be like concrete.. Barry has even suggested it may not be good for my way of life around here
With my ever expanding family and time constraints, sometimes things will set for some time before I buff them, especially if its an overall 😛I use 3M weld thru primer for the same reasons above.. Cant hurt and when you cant get to the backside of the weld, at least it has some protection vs nothing but sanded bare metal that you know is going to rust
Boys that is how I do everything around here.. I base and clear all my stuff.. people used to make fun of me for using car paint on my shudders , rockers,etc, but recently they have started coming around asking me if i could spray their stuff now :rofl
thats fantastic brother.. Congrats.. Now you dont need to be like me and my ole buddy bondomerchant and start creating your own sports team 👿 :whistle:
Ole Bondo has more than me, but Im closing the gap :rofl
:welc
Hey is the pimp juice JimC that I know from Jersey??
welcome brotha :exci
Now Im gonna have to go out in the garage and pour some of that stuff out and see how amber cast it is.. I thought it was clear like the my clears that I do use.. hmmmm I will look this weekend when I actually have a minute to breathe..
I never sprayed that clear on any vehicle other than that plastic piece on my truck.. I use it around the house here for stuff I clear, like my rocking chairs on my front porch :blush: 😛
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]hey would ya use that morton on a white or silver car where color match was an issue???
:whistle:[/quote]That particular clear… YES I would have used on any collision repair regardless of color as it is water clear and water thin 😛 😛
Now i have seen some cheap clears I would never put on a silver or white because of the amber cast they have.. I remember SW used to have some pretty “yellowed” clears back in the day and they really messed with a silver car.. But that was a long time ago, and any clear I use now is pretty much “clear”
Man been reading for an hour or so and now am more confused than when I started..
So it is different, but then again its the same??
I dunno, I do agree the word poly is used very loosely in our industry for sure, as I have seen enamel with a plasticizer added and then all of a sudden it went from a generic cheap regualr old enamel to now a “polyurethane” single stage.. and believe me it was not like any other polyurethane single stage I had ever used.. It was awful.. just awful.
I have also seen what we consider the “normal” acrylic urethanes again with a plasticizer added and now its a poly as well??.. those seem to spray and do fine..
From the clears I have used that were labeled poly , the spi which the owner ( my good friend Barry Kives ) does call a true polurethane stays softer and surface scratches with the wipe of a micro fiber cloth, however you can buff it 2 years from now and it still buffs like butter.. the scratch issue is gone then though..
PPG sell its 2002 concept clear which is also touted as a poly and I personally used to love spraying and buffing that clear many many years ago..
I dont know what all this means, but I can tell you this.. Jim Clark (another good friend of mine ) and I have spent many hours talking about clears and their differences etc.. We both agree that more or less they are just plastic,, and all pretty much good..
I did a test 4 summers ago.. I bought a gallon of some super cheap clear.. It was Morton brand, super cheap.. I mean 50 bucks for a gallon kit.. Mixed 4:1 I sprayed a piece of plastic that goes across the front of my chrome bumper on my old Expedition just to see how it would hold up..
It sanded like concrete the very next day.. and buffed like concrete too, but it has never lost its gloss, faded or chipped or peeled..Like I said it was a test of sorts for my own self.. I wondered if a dirt cheap bottom of the barrel clear would hold up outside 24/7 in the elements.. Plus I wash my truck once a year :lol1 .. I can tell you it surprised the hell out of me and like i said above, it looks like the day I shot it..
So my point is this..that particular clear is much different in its resin amount *( it was like tap water consistency) how it sanded and also how it buffed than the spi I use or even the Gentec I use , it has stood up to the elements, salt, acid rain etc and never failed.. Sooooo, I dont think all the hoopla matters as much as I once did a few years ago..
Most of us are doing collision repairs, and they will last as long as the factory thin cheap paint, and if it were a show car, you could put anything on it and it should last forever since they stay inside garages are never driven in bad weather etc etc etc..
I know not everyone in the industry feels that way and I understand why.. I have heard horror stories from different peopke over the years of how this clear did this or this one did that etc.. How they failed yada yada yada, but personally have never had any issue..
I think as long as you buy from a reputable company chances are you will fair just fine..
Ok Im done :pcorn:
Its time to finish this bad boy up.. Pulling it back in the garage tonight so it can dry out and get ready for the tons of blocking that is needed 😛