jackcarlson

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  • January 2, 2011 at 5:19 am #26734

    [attachment]035.JPG[/attachment]

    January 1, 2011 at 11:29 pm #26708
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    December 31, 2010 at 10:26 pm #26673

    [quote=”bobwires” post=16645]Someday I will own a Chrysler Le Baron.

    I had an ’82 Subaru BRAT for a month or so, but the thing was so incredibly rusty I didn’t want to fall down through the floor while I was driving. That would be a great car if I could find one in good shape.[/quote]
    great for what:??rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

    December 31, 2010 at 8:05 am #26654

    [quote=”bobwires” post=16632]well that’s a lot cheaper than the windshield tool I saw. It was some serious dough. I figure I’ll stick with the $15 hand tool :dnc[/quote]
    id pay ta see ya using ur lil handtool:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl bet mine is faster:p :p :p

    December 31, 2010 at 8:02 am #26650

    well its pretty obvious none of these guys are from new zealand:rofl :rofl :rofl

    December 31, 2010 at 7:58 am #26647

    well we are gonna have ta cut lil d off he is slurrin again:rofl :rofl :rofl

    December 31, 2010 at 7:43 am #26645

    [quote=”Ben” post=16618][quote=”painter123″ post=16609]how about one of these http://www.aegistools.com/catalog/Power-Cut-Out-Tools/Equalizer-Express-StingRay-120-Volt-Standard-Kit-LDT204/%5B/quote%5D

    I have a similar attachment for my air hammer that works ok, but the blade is slightly thicker than the equalizer. If I did lots, that would be my first choice of “proper” tools to use.

    MoCoke, if you can get a blade like that and attach it to a heavy slide hammer it will work well, and is inexpensive. The trouble is, most vehicles have the high viscosity urethane that it a b*tch to cut. The older medium/low viscosity stuff is much easier to work with.

    There are several tools out there, and if you are going to be serious about it, you will need a variety. Definitely need a razor (Olfa knife), piano wire (although it won’t get used much), a good pull knife and something like the equalizer. No 1 tool is perfect for every piece of glass (although some glass guys try to only use the equalizer, and wind up making a mess of everything).[/quote]
    dont make me do a glass vid equalizer breath:stoned :stoned :stoned :stoned

    December 31, 2010 at 6:13 am #26635
    December 29, 2010 at 5:49 am #26549

    great job on the vids lild;) 😉 i really enjoyed em

    December 29, 2010 at 3:59 am #26546

    :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

    December 25, 2010 at 7:59 pm #26457

    howdy

    December 25, 2010 at 6:06 am #26441

    geez dont ya just use the black drywall screws an black zip ties ya get at lowes

    December 24, 2010 at 10:44 am #26418

    looks great lild i bet ur wife will love it shoot now mines ready ta marry ya…. bike is nice 2 i cant wait ta ride it..great vid u an ur family have a great xmas looks like ur wife is gonna be jacked 2 thumbs up bondo after all u made me feel precious 2 luv ya too

    December 23, 2010 at 9:19 pm #26372

    some my cleamest jobs come out on the shop floor……..funney how that works somtimes

    December 22, 2010 at 8:46 am #26345

    [quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=16355][quote=”Jayson M” post=16340]Are you for real??No sh!t sikkens is going to be slower with no heat that is a no brainer :clappy Before we had a bake booth we would do 5-8 jobs a day with ACIII in a homemade down draft with no bake cycle,so I call BS on that one too.[/quote]
    Hey man, thats just what they told me. They still have some AC3 sitting on the shelf. I would like to use it but I dont know anything about it. What clear would you recomend me using over autobase plus and spraying in a cross draft booth with no bake cycle other than a propane heater.[/quote]
    well jay now that funney go for it goober

Viewing 15 posts - 511 through 525 (of 1,940 total)