Craig Coburn
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As a guy that paints in a shed – I appreciate how hard it is to pull it off and make it look as good as you did. Great work.
So it is possible, but not advised. I’m guessing that the boundary layer of air needs to be moved to ensure the water can evaporate/flash. Why do you prefer water to solvent (To Andy)? I’ll be doing the car in a solvent, but they will stop producing it at some point.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19869]Yes single stage urethane,think of it as clear with pigment 😉 Go talk to the boys at offshore,u-tech 3.5 is your friend.[/quote]
Thanks Jayson – will do. Is this the best single stage to spray or is there something that is better? I’m not really happy with the SW Ultra 7000 that I shot before. It just didn’t seem to be very durable.
Wow – that turned out great!
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19857]Yes you can paint a hood or a fender in a garage as long as you have some type of air movement(box fan etc)
Canuck why don’t you look at the possibility of getting single stage for your repair?It would work great on a solid color.[/quote]I could do it in a single stage – it’s not a metalic. I’ve got to do the entire car at this point (there are about three colours on it now!). Are single stages going to remain solvent based?
Love it – looks great. I’ve had so many projects that go like that…everything was fine until the paint, once the paint is done the rest looks like it needs an upgrade!
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19697]You could have at least taken a picture away from the NDP election sign :kofee Look at the bright side,it could have been much worse than $720 😛 I had a retard lose control on his crotch rocket in front of my house and slam into my freshly painted 80 chevy pickup years ago to the tune of $4500,you got away lucky.Didn’t see this until today but there is always someone at Kustom to give an estimate ;)[/quote]
Ha, ha…that’s the neighbour’s NDP sign…no signs on my lawn (I’d vote for the Bloc if they ran a candidate). I know it could be worse. My current issue is that I could either get it repaired or just suck it up and pull it myself. I don’t know if it’s worth my $250 deductible to get it done.
I have the new emblems in the house…got a quote for $720 for the repair. I’ve got collision insurance on the car so it’s going to get fixed by someone else as they don’t pay out damage like this. As the car was about to go into my garage for a new coat of paint, I’m a little torn about what to do. Most of me is just filled with hate for the knob that did this to my car.
I picked up a fresh air system on eBay – basically a vacuum cleaner motor and some crap tube. I don’t like the tube and have a replacement ready to go, but the rest works fine.
The question I have is…why? Sure you can, but it’s not a particularly rare car – just get a new one and crush the old one. Hope it doesn’t crab to badly when driven.
[quote=”bobwires” post=16766]honestly I doubt that car will need the whole thing skimmed. block out the old paint, assuming it’s adhere properly, and get the whole thing into epoxy primer. then block and fill as needed.[/quote]
Ya, been there, done that – save yourself the work and don’t go looking for things that are not there. Looks pretty straight from the pics. Staying with the same colour?
That’s quite clean…you should see where I have to paint!
I have to admit that that video has me thinking that this gun would be perfect for a garage painter like me. One of the things I love about my Iwata is that it doesn’t leave me in a fog in the “booth”. I don’t use it for priming I’ve got a DeVilbiss FLG-3 for that…but it sure is tempting.
Hammer and dolly, though I only do a door skin once in a blue moon being just a hobbyist. I have custom made a hammer with a polished face for just this task. Most of the cars I work on are made out of thicker stuff than modern cars and I’m not sure how I’d get it done without the use of force.
Have a good one Jimmo!