brandon dingwell
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[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29242]I hear this is the gun to have for clear coats. optima 900l lvlp. does my sata 4000rp need a for sale sign????[/quote]
I didnt hear any buzz …….
yes, insurance. pair of doors, outer post and rocker. nice little job
Hyundais have a Matte option avail now as well and they have a whole tech bulletin of what you cant do to the finish without ruining it. And factorys dont get rid of defects. every new car has dust nibs, terrible orange peel, runs etc. they only address major defects and there are a lot of new cars with multiple layers of paint on them
figure out how much time you think you will have into it and what you want to charge per hour and go with that. then just tell him he pays for materials and whatever the body guy charges. that way you dont get screwed if materials or the other guys labor costs more than you anticipated
5335 is fine. the only thing in the glaso like that is comparable in price is 923-255. Its a nice clear but it is a thick clear. TDS says to reduce 10% but really you will need 15-20% if you are not used to spraying a heavier clear. Stick with what you know. and if you can control your environment, flow coating is so much easier in the long run than sanding and buffing.
Sorry, but there no way to polish a matte finish with out giving it a shine. what you get out of the gun is what you get
is it this stuff. http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_421_english.pdf
if it is then it says 30min bake at 140
Haven’t used it, but if it has 3x the mil build of cbp250 then why would you need to bang on 3 coats
That would Probably depend on what your expectations of the Prepper/Painter were. Realistically- Spray Guns, DA, and maybe a buffer. Ideally everyone should have at least a basic set of tools though. Socket set, screw drivers, etc.
I dont believe the spray can stuff has anywhere near the same acid content as a 2 part etch. and I have seen first hand parts flash rust with spray can etch on them in just a matter of weeks
Nobody actually suggested mixing waterborne base tints in with 2k clear. Both Andy and Jay said tint clear basecoat with black tint, then 2k clear over that
Len’s ok, but if you mentioned this site by name on his forum he would have deleted it and Henry would have written a page sermon about how wrong you were to do so :pcorn:
No need to use the green paper. Plastic right up to the panels
Using the same gun as you do for base is fine. What is your overlap when spraying? Is the sealer going on too dry and grainy? As long as the sealer is smooth when it dries you should be fine. Your spraying technique is likely what is affecting the look of the base.
What sealer are you using? For a complete you will want to use 885 or 895. Also at least 885 in the base