brandon dingwell
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
your just spraying the jambs. no need for an orientation coat. prep properly then base coat to coverage, then 2 coats of clear.
[quote=”billgaino” post=28544]Well what the hell am I supossed to do when they bring this crap to my shop with a 1000$ deductible and no money? [/quote]
And really, if they had no money they wouldnt be driving an Infiniti SUV.
sometimes it’s better not to buy into peoples lines of BSCame out nice. My guy drives a blue cruze. waiting for him to wreck it so we can put some flames on it 👿
[quote=”ScottB” post=28577]Rep gave me some MS42 And I have not used it yet. Waiting for something that’s not critical to try it.[/quote]
nothing special. says it’s like 2042. i didnt see that, but i havent used 2042 in over 10 years either. for the minimual price diff ag40 is much beterthink that one hasnt made it across the pond yet to the US.
[quote=”billgaino” post=28575]Look at the end result.you gotta do it everyday, to understand[/quote]
Shiny paint makes not a proper repair. it’s obvious that even doing it everyday some people dont understandThe rep dropped off a qt of primer that was supposed to be like PPG k38. stuff sprayed like chip guard and sanded like a rock. Tried some ms42 as well. so far AG40 is the only thing that I like out of their stuff.
[quote=”rikka23″ post=28557]Oh yeh what the hell is kitty hair please tell me it’s fibre glass or something ha ha[/quote]
Long strand fiberglass fillerWell on your web site you said you only saved him 1/2 of the deductible.
What you should have done is grind all the paint and old filler off, properly do the metal work. do your initial fill with short strand filler then finish off with regular filler, skim if needed with polyester putty.Please dont do hack work, post it hear and expect sympathy or encouragement. We are mostly all Professionals that take pride in what we do or are people learning the ropes that want to learn and preform repairs properly
Sorry, but evercoat sands down to the oem primer (as long as its intact and not damaged) the only paint they fill over is the feather edge. However paint companies do not recommend that procedure. no one recommends filler over the mess you have there. and mixing kitty hair in with your bondo doesnt make it better
[quote=”billgaino” post=28534]I know you guys give me a hard way about some putty over OEM paint.Here is the description of the putty I use Dynatronâ„¢ Xtraâ„¢ Glaze 24 oz.is a premium polyester glazing and finishing putty that is especially formulated to adhere to steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, E-Coat and SMC, as well as OEM paint and primer. It says it adhearers to OEM paint. Years ago all they had was red or green acylic laquer putty. Most of Yall are too young to remember. All that was good for was filling a pinhole in Bond after you sprayed laquer primer on it. We don’t do it like that anymore. I used to remove all the paint to bare metal before using fillers. I have stripped hundreds of cars in my day. Many I stripped with 36 grit. I now use aircraft stripper. Things change, I can’t tell you how many times I have found filler over OEM paint with repaint over it that was holding well. That’s when I quit stripping to bare metal. If you have paint….then feather to metal… then feather to filler…. Well now you have 2 transistions to bare metal. The way I do it, there is not even one trasition to metal. Todays OEM paints are stuck well. If it is not, then I will go to metal… What is important is that the area to be filled is rough sanded well. :flamewar Flame suit on! Bill
[/quote]
WOW :blink:
http://www.youtube.com/user/ITWEvercoat
well my paint usually comes out mottled anyway, so my blends on GM’s are undetectable :blush:
I’m guessing you already cleared the panel. You can buff it back and make it look presentable. biggest issue is base needs a specific film build of clear to provide adequate uv protection. you likely dont have that at your blend area now. eventually the sun will break down the clear base and the paint will fail.