brandon dingwell
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- July 30, 2012 at 7:34 pm #37741
[quote=”jeremyb” post=26947]No fiberglass, just primer. The dash has a thick soft foam pad then vinyl. I used sikkens 2+1 hs primer with 50% elast-o-actif flex addative. Primed and sanded twice to remove texture. Same as the door panels and console…those were hard plastic with texture, only used maybe 10% elasto to help with any chipping. Everything has held up fine, and drove the car like this every day as it was my only form of transportation up untill about 3 years or so ago.
Worth noting, this is the second dash I did. The first dash I only put 30% elasto in the primer, and eventually started cracking around the defrost vents from the constant temp change in the winter. This dash has been perfect at 50%. The elasto seems to slow the dry time down some so I waited probably a week in between sanding an re-priming to make sure it was cured good. I did not add the flex to the clear, ACIII.[/quote]
Man you have issues :p :rofl :rofl :rofl
July 26, 2012 at 8:51 pm #37719Glaso just came out with a -460 clear that is supposed to replace the 450. they say it has a better gloss, more user friendly and works better in air dry environments
July 25, 2012 at 5:09 am #37702you might wanna rethink usin a scratch resistant clear on somethin you want to cut and buff. they dont buff very easy. And none of the clear you mentioned are the scratch resistant ones. the 255 is nice but buffs a little hard. Havent used much of the 109. It’s been awhile dont remember how that buffs. 450 flows out real nice and buffs like butter. with the riht comination of hardener and reducer you would probably be fine usin it in your garage
July 22, 2012 at 6:40 am #37688Ya never had an issue getting blend time. I reality it should be full paint time. the blend time of 1/2 the base refinish came from the lac days when you could just melt the color in and buff it out. Now a days the process to prep for a blend is the same as it is to refinish a panel.
July 12, 2012 at 12:57 am #37637[quote=”ScottB” post=26840]
When I first contacted Sikkens over a year ago, the original rep only discussed Sikkens products. Fast forward: Different rep and now other products are being promoted. Same intitial contact number got re-routed numerous times. It’s obvious what he wants to sell by what his recommendations are. I let him talk so I could figure out what his angle was.
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You spoke with Dave and Ramone. they were both Akzo reps and are no longer with the company. Up in our area, I dont think keystone has any sales/tech reps left that came from Akzo. Thats why you find them pushing the keystone stuff more.
July 11, 2012 at 3:48 pm #37631[quote=”ryan999″ post=26837]
Does your Sikkens rep work for LKQ by chance?[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
July 11, 2012 at 5:43 am #37625Well if your more comfortable using something else, then thats what I would do. Trying new products on a complete isnt the wisest thing to do. Trust me, I know :blush:
July 11, 2012 at 5:41 am #37623[quote=”smooth” post=26830]Be carefull, the stuff does like to pop very easily as is…[/quote]
Honestly, never had ag40 pop on me. not even after banging 3 coats on a hood and baking it :p
but, i’ve never reduced it either :whistle:July 11, 2012 at 5:30 am #37621ya, Slow is pretty fast for a complete. Havent had a chance to use the extra slow yet, but i’m sure it’ll help
July 4, 2012 at 6:55 am #37572sometimes it helps on the cheaper stuff to cut your base 50/50 on the final coat with some colorblender/clear base. Had to do that with dbc alot on their metallics, so I’m sure the lower lines are worse
June 30, 2012 at 5:52 pm #37540have them send you some of the clear that they are mixing the candy with. that way you can put a coat or 2 over the candy to protect it and it’s compatible. then you can scuff the clear and reclear with your stuff and not have to worry about having it all blow up on you. Or just have them send you the candy toner and you can mix it in your own clear
June 30, 2012 at 5:54 am #37532[quote=”jimmo” post=26738]I used to use hardeners with solvent and as far as I know the OEM’s still recommend them in water, I assume they still contribute to better adhesion/holdout and would be better for two tones…solvent i found that was certainly the case. My rep told me with the Onyx that if you added hardener it always stayed sticky and you couldn’t tack it so we figured lets skip that headache. I’m getting the itch to toss the BASF and see what else is out there.[/quote]
wont you be getting dupont soon. the boys over at abol rave about it :whistle: - AuthorPosts