brandon dingwell
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- March 19, 2012 at 3:50 pm #36384
there are a lot of places that have midrise lifts set up in the booth. regardless of what you put in, you still need to get down to set the lifting arms up correctly on the car
March 19, 2012 at 4:37 am #36373[quote=”Mmautobody” post=25658]@smooth Whats wrong with Sikkens?[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :roflMarch 19, 2012 at 4:32 am #36372very rarely does any shop actually have to pay anything when they switch companies 😉 for blowers in a booth I would look to the corner mounted ones like the jun-air quads. Accudraft has there own corner set up that runs off a turbine so it doesnt use the shop air (wont strain the compressor). and they just introduced a setup where you choose which units are blowing air so all 4 arent going at once if you dont need them. Global Finishing Systems has a similar setup to that americure one you posted.
March 19, 2012 at 4:09 am #36369I have an SAS unit. Dont use it much, but when I was painting production I used it every day. I liked that fact that you hook the airline up to the belt unit and the gun and fresh air got supplied of that unit. no real extra weight to drag around. I had a full face mask but it was a little small. the next size up would have probably been alot more comfortable. the carbon filters ran about $80-90 bucks a shot and needed to be changed every 6 months. The 3m self contained units look too big and bulky. I can picture damage being done with that thing if things are tight in the booth
March 17, 2012 at 2:01 am #36330Sorry buddy, was gonna reply yesterday but forgot. A fade really wont come out right in SS. should be done in BC/CC
March 11, 2012 at 4:58 am #36270[quote=”Jayson M” post=25568]Don’t use either of them and use utech 200 or 3.5,they are just as good if not better and easy on your wallet too :cheers[/quote]
Ya but thats an akzo product :ban?March 11, 2012 at 3:49 am #36265well if you can get glasurit and it’s cheaper than ppg why not just go with 22line :pcorn:
March 9, 2012 at 7:56 pm #36232[quote=”Idunnit” post=25519]I was more interested in what some of their sandpaper, mud things like that. I have gotten some killer deals on mixing cups, red skuff pads and things like that but I am hesitant to order any mud, glaze or clear till I can find out more about it. Our material bill goes up every year and the insurance companies wont kick out any more money to cover it unless all the shops they deal with do the same.
Chuck[/quote]
Have you ever tried invoiceing out your materials per job and submiting it to the insurance company. Kinda hard to argue with at that point. And try getting the customer involved
March 9, 2012 at 7:11 am #36226[quote=”Red Baron” post=25525]Are you in socal?
If so you can borrow my 4000RP.[/quote]
Send it to CT. I’ll borrow it for awhile 🙂March 5, 2012 at 5:58 am #36157[quote=”smooth” post=25446]If its going to be stripped or blasted why not do it in Epoxy than SS wet on wet? just a suggestion. Less work. :cheers[/quote]
coming from the guy that doesnt use SS :whistle:March 5, 2012 at 5:45 am #36153[quote=”Nexson” post=25460]because ding, these grilles become a part of the flow of the car when painted, they need to be dibbed when painted so they don’t stand out as being painted. See now how it really just isn’t a grille and becomes an essentialy body panel of the car.
[img]http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/138xj.jpg[/img]
[img]http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg122/scaled.php?server=122&filename=09tlnosacaine009iz7.jpg&res=medium[/img][/quote]Ever see the dirt nibs in a factory paint job 😉
March 5, 2012 at 2:06 am #36136i would etch and epoxy, but i like giving the paint companies extra money :blush: , epoxy would work just fine
March 3, 2012 at 4:43 am #36108[quote=”smooth” post=25415]Wow, you really shit the bed on that one. Sorry to hear. keep your head up. :rock[/quote]
Is that why they call you smooth :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl - AuthorPosts