brandon dingwell
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[quote=”[cb]” post=24495]I produce my own “blackest black”. Paint is based on waterborne system
You will find my contact details on my website http://wb40.blogspot.com , feel free to phone or skype me :hunt Price is USD 42 per 1 liter of basecoat and 0,6 liter of water, so you have 1.6 of paint for USD 42.Well I cant wait to get my hands on some :pcorn:
Looking good.
Buffer seems to be doing a good job as wellThat color has a special silver flake that is special order. It’s not avail in onyx. You can get it in Diamont,90line or 55 line. Better off to just have your jobber mix you some.
[quote=”Nexson” post=24398] I am using DBC500 color blended. it mixes 1:1 with your color on your last coat.[/quote]
you could probably get away without it on a bumper job. just something to use when you need it on a tough color when blending a hood or having issues mottling a color[quote=”bobwires” post=24396][quote=”ding” post=24379]for the dryer look for one that can handle hotter incoming air temps. this way it can be mounted closer to the compressor. some of the cheaper units cannot and need to be mounted further away to give the air a chance to cool some before going through the unit[/quote]
true, but why fight physics? I say get it as dry as possible before running through any filters.[/quote]
because cooling down through a further length of line doesnt dry it. as the air cools the water condenses and is able to then be removed. so if you can cool it and remove it closer to the compressor then you dont have unwanted water vapor traveling through more of the air line than needed[quote=”Jayson M” post=24376]I don’t think so,wanda is the bottom of the barrel of the akzo line up :sick:[/quote]
ya but the chick is hot and you dont have to buy it through keystone :pdont forget to pipe in and automatic tank drain as well. for the dryer look for one that can handle hotter incoming air temps. this way it can be mounted closer to the compressor. some of the cheaper units cannot and need to be mounted further away to give the air a chance to cool some before going through the unit
[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=24351]I do not think so. Guy I met with BASF a while back told me he restored vintage stuff, but I can not remember his name.[/quote]
Sorry. It was Kevin not you :blush:my curtis has twin 7.5 hp motors. they max at 910 rpm
I think it looks pretty damn nice bolv. Good job. and the painter did pretty nice too
looks like they are made for Grainger so any parts if needed would be easily obtained.
Dont you have a buddy that paints guitars :whistle:
[quote=”dunson” post=24324]So you are turning the pressure down and spraying out a rough pass of clear and letting that flash then 2 (or 3) normal coats on that? Does the 2 coats soften the texture to match factory toyota? I have thought about trying this because toyota rock guard is very light and fades to nothing. I’ve tried the 3m in the yellow can with ok results, just not a perfect factory match. Fords are a breeze compaired to toyota.
Sorry this was for “ding”[/quote]
Not really the right way to do it but…. i used to do it on subarus at the shop i painted at before cause they were to cheap to buy chip gaurd. just did one additional coat over it and it matched pretty good.
this was really my smart ass how to be a hack answer 👿Welcome to the forum.
Make sure you let Bondo know how that ATX is. He’s dying to try some martin pro-base so he can feel like a pro again :rofl :rofl[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-166S.jpg[/IMG]