brandon dingwell
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- October 14, 2011 at 4:27 am #33508
It’s a Sata so I’m sure it’s good. But putting a 1.4 in a mini jet kinda defeats the purpose. Might as well just use the full size version 😉
October 10, 2011 at 2:59 am #33466well bondo preps all his blend panels with 180 so a few scratches on an adjacent panel wont hurt 😛
October 9, 2011 at 6:07 am #33449Only 5 coats of clear :blink:
Try 2 and see how you do with that 😉October 9, 2011 at 1:05 am #33447[quote=”PAINTPOT” post=22903]if you are using lower air pressure,then you dont need so much air .hvlp are great for compressors that have a lower air out put than conventional guns.Friend OF MINE USES A nr92 SATA HVLP AND it does not run the compressor down ,as a conventional gun.[/quote]
:blink: :blink:
link showing sata 4000 hvlp air consumption usage 430Nl/min or 15.2 CFM http://www.sata.com/index.php?id=satajet4000bhvlp&L=11
Sata 4000 RP air consumption 285 Ml/min or 10.1 CFM http://www.sata.com/index.php?id=satajet4000brp&L=11
How come the HVLP requires more air than the more conventional RP ?
even requires more air than the conventional high pressure SataJetB which uses 370Ml/min or 13.1 CFM http://www.sata.com/index.php?id=satajetb&L=11
October 8, 2011 at 8:53 pm #33439[quote=”PAINTPOT” post=22897][quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=22893]Depends witch cap you are using the hvlp cap uses much more air than the comp
liant cap[/quote]HVLP uses less air h high v volume l low P PRESSURE that means less air two bar for devilbiss[/quote]
High Volume is refering to the volume of air the gun requires to be able to produce desired results from lower spraying pressures.
Therefore HVLP guns have larger CFM requirements than reduced pressure (compliant) or conventional guns. Meaning
THEY USE MORE AIROctober 7, 2011 at 3:48 pm #33421paint’s paint :whistle: .. but i really like the job you did on the woodwork :rock
October 7, 2011 at 6:08 am #33413[quote=”kennelly16″ post=22871]Thank you, I actually gave out an assignment to figure out how to spray a metallic single stage on a complete and one of my students handed me a quote from Jason M on here. So here I am!
Mike K[/quote]
Well I hope you failed him. Cause that Jay guy dont know sheet :whistle: :rofl :roflOctober 7, 2011 at 4:52 am #33411welcome back mike. i remember your stuff. it was pretty good.
:welc
October 6, 2011 at 1:54 am #33398[quote=”Kakenworth” post=22856]So I need to go over the 1500 spots with 600 or 800 or 1000 before reclear then correct?
Most of it is done with 1000[/quote]
Sounds that way. Yes :deadhorseOctober 6, 2011 at 1:38 am #333961500 is too fine. 600-800-1000 all will work. I prefer courser, that way i know my paint will stick.
October 5, 2011 at 3:47 pm #33377Sorry woody, but Mac is right. black shows all the little micro scratches better than any other color. Glaso 450 clear is nice but it is a softer clear. it will scratch a little easier, but when it does it will buff out easier too.
October 3, 2011 at 7:14 pm #33357nex is the master on those. he has a video of his if you search a little
October 3, 2011 at 3:48 pm #33351either you didnt let all the water flash out of the base, or you left the parts in the baking hot shed with no airflow to remove the solvents from the clear. either one will cause the issues you are having
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