brandon dingwell

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Viewing 15 posts - 691 through 705 (of 1,733 total)
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  • September 8, 2011 at 7:58 pm #32807

    [quote=”lild” post=22318]I just talked to my jobber this morning bout it. Appperantly they knew about it. But I told them that I would like to try it out when they got some.
    Thanks ding & ben for your comments. I knew of other companies that had a similar product but didn’t know how good it was. But we’ll see how ppgs goes.[/quote]

    Well if it’s like their othere DC clears, it will suck :rofl :rofl :rofl

    September 8, 2011 at 3:47 pm #32804

    WTF. The Sherwin clear isnt that great and now BASF and PPG are coming out with copies of it. :compsmash

    September 3, 2011 at 10:16 pm #32738

    Welcome Lee :welc

    September 3, 2011 at 4:09 pm #32735

    :welc

    August 26, 2011 at 6:39 pm #32641

    [quote=”NICK PERRY” post=22156]The “experts” narrowed it down to moisture being trapped in the base coat (which is a crock o crap to me) and told us to start adding hardners to our base coats until they confirm this is the issure. By using hardner in the basecoat is making silvers/golds difficult to spray as it thinkens up the product making it “mottle” and look like crap!! Right now, this is where we are standing on this issue. I personally think it was a bad batch of 666 which they dont want to admit. Once we striped the hood, it felt like the base coat was turning into a rubber, almost like there is a ton of flex additive in the paint. very wierd situation![/quote]
    Sounds like they put BASF tints in your sikkens cans :rofl :rofl :rofl

    August 24, 2011 at 7:24 am #32615

    the urethane stripping paints work well like jim said if you are going to clear over them. One shot if you are just striping on top of the clear. you can also clear over one shot by adding a touch of hardener to it. it also helps if you put you first coat of clear on a little lighter than normal. one shot can wrinkle when being cleared over if you are not careful

    August 22, 2011 at 7:17 am #32593

    ya. get a good miller or lincoln machine that runs on gas and 120v. if you want a gasless machine just get an arc welder.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00234

    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2471-1

    August 20, 2011 at 2:44 am #32552

    [quote=”Andy T” post=22077][quote=”chevman” post=22041]Sorry about that, you are correct. I’m just learning the newer guns and paints, but when I grow up I want to be as good as Andy T[/quote]

    :blink: I hope that’s sarcasm 😆

    I may be fast, but I never said I was any good :rofl[/quote]
    Hope so to. Other wise it was childish and uncalled for

    August 14, 2011 at 6:15 pm #32433

    dont think any of them sell direct.

    August 14, 2011 at 6:13 pm #32432

    [quote=”Ben” post=21966][quote=”lild” post=21961]:deadhorse The only time that I did have a ptoblem with a cover not matching with the same paint was with remans. Somethin bout the primer thet use.[/quote]

    You do seal all your bumpers, don’t you?[/quote]
    Lild doesnt use sealer 😛

    August 14, 2011 at 2:39 am #32417

    ya 100% dry air. they use nitrogen to fill race car tires. It would work, but is it really neccesary.
    And wyder, if you are spray in a booth with air flow dont think there will be much issue of oxygen deprovation 😉

    August 14, 2011 at 2:36 am #32416

    [quote=”bloverby” post=21951]I remember reading this awhile back.

    http://www.ppg.com/coatings/refinish/en/training/techtips/articles/Documents/techTips_bumperColor.pdf%5B/quote%5D
    Ya but that was for PPG paint blov. Good paint doesnt do that 😆

    August 14, 2011 at 2:33 am #32414

    think that would be a tough color in any system to panel paint. :whistle:

    August 12, 2011 at 5:56 am #32342

    chrysler only endorses cold straighting on HSS

    August 11, 2011 at 11:38 pm #32319

    Think he needs some new material :rofl :rofl

Viewing 15 posts - 691 through 705 (of 1,733 total)