brandon dingwell

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Viewing 15 posts - 916 through 930 (of 1,733 total)
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  • January 26, 2011 at 10:15 pm #27638

    looks better than my lessonal job :blush:

    January 22, 2011 at 8:49 pm #27534

    Jay also says the Napa clear is like piss water so if it thickens up from the cold it will spray like one of those really high end high solids clears :whistle:

    January 22, 2011 at 2:56 am #27513

    [quote=”painter123″ post=17436]If the clear is too cold could it possibly cause fisheyes when spraying the clear?[/quote]
    Only if Nex is using it :rofl :rofl :rofl

    January 21, 2011 at 8:59 pm #27505

    [quote=”ding” post=17429][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17428]I just spray mine thick and curdled. Bondo(the real pro on the site) taught me how to adjust the gun to compensate. 😆
    [/quote]

    :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]

    Jay told me i should just put it on with a roller when it’s like that :blink:

    January 21, 2011 at 8:32 pm #27504

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17428]I just spray mine thick and curdled. Bondo(the real pro on the site) taught me how to adjust the gun to compensate. 😆
    [/quote]

    :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

    January 19, 2011 at 10:06 pm #27443

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=17368]Nope it was me that said that :stoned He said he had a bottom heavy pattern,usually means your fluid tip is damaged or your air horns are dirty.Turning the fan in is just compensating for another problem.[/quote]
    Amateur :p :rofl :rofl :rofl

    January 19, 2011 at 5:01 pm #27438

    Lild, you do know those saturn door handles are only held in with on plastic clip under the handle on the outside of the door. Takes all of 2 seconds to remove :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

    January 19, 2011 at 4:41 pm #27437

    [quote=”timbo” post=17360]Tell you what I learned from what bondo told me a month ago…it’s not always wide open on OVERALL or panel painting. Some times you need to adjust differently. I was having a problem with my Sata. I cleaned up the fan a fuzz, Increased the pressure to 30 (HVLP), and slowed down a tad….waalaa….success!!! :rock :rock Some pros might have thought there was hardware issues and a need to go replace very expensive parts. so glad I listened to the pro bondo and applied it to my application…whew!!!! Saved me hundreds of dollars!!! Thanks!! :pcorn:

    [/quote]
    If I’m not mistaken It was you that wanted to replace the expensive parts :wak

    January 18, 2011 at 10:24 pm #27404

    Kinda wondering why you would put etch over e-coat as well

    January 18, 2011 at 4:52 pm #27383

    Damn nice looking job there 😉

    January 18, 2011 at 5:08 am #27369

    are you letting the water base dry enough before clearing

    January 18, 2011 at 5:07 am #27368

    looks like you got some nice jobs going there. even with all the adjustment in those gm’s they still have to be better than working on any chrysler product. 😉
    Now if you were bondo you would have mudded up the hood, door and fender on that trialblazer :rofl

    January 15, 2011 at 9:31 pm #27219

    imagine that. A union fukin things up :whistle: :pcorn: :pcorn:

    January 15, 2011 at 6:28 am #27191

    Looking good. nice money making job for the shop. I dont see any Keystone or tong wang boxes anywhere :whistle:
    What did you do to straighten that hydroformed frame section ?

    January 13, 2011 at 4:56 pm #27126

    more than likely when you jambed you sprayed part of the outer panels as well then sanded that back to have a nice surface to paint on. Sounds like the solvents are getting under the clear hitting the base (kinda like what happens on a sand through) you can add some hardener to the base when you jamb (or all the time is better) this will help when recoating sand throughs

Viewing 15 posts - 916 through 930 (of 1,733 total)