Dennis Lambert
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I have never sprayed those clears but in the climate I spray with hot temps there’s high humidity. When I need to add reducer I add just enough to get the viscosity where it should be. I use a fast reducer because after the clear is on the panel it needs to get out before the clear crosslinks. If I want a slicker finish I try to get it with gun setup (tip size, pressure, distance, etc…) If I want the clear to stay open longer I add flex. Also, some clears you have to wait a little before bake. Just some things to consider. Hope you get it sorted out soon. :cheer:
:welc :cheers
As long as that guy doesn’t have authority over you don’t worry about it. Just concentrate on doing quality work in a timely manner. That’s what I suggest. Also try not to make things personal (involving egos) . When discussing ways of doing things be ready to prove your way is the correct or better way. Most importantly don’t be the one who thinks his way is always the best. After 28 yrs in the biz I’m still learning stuff. 😉
:cheers :rock Sweet ride. Really like the color combo. Nice job.
With standox solvent there is a clear base on the mixing bank (599) that is used in mid coats. I assume spies has the same thing different number. This base works very well as a wet bed/ blender. I have used it for that a lot. I reduce it 75-100%.
I highly recommend the RTI MR1 diaphragm regulator along with a high flow air fitting . This will give you an even pressure and higher cfm. I usually open my gun reg all the way and adjust the pressure at the wall reg. This will also give you a better volume of air.
I also use the supernova 1.3 h d for clear. Honestly I almost always spray with full fluid and full fan. I sometimes close the fan slightly when spraying a small part. The main adjustment I do to the gun is air pressure using higher psi for higher solid clears (27-30) depending on the texture I’m trying to match and a little lower for medium solids (24-26). Other than that most of my “adjustments” are done with distance, hand speed, pattern overlap, and trigger pull.
[quote=”Tricks” post=34601]Yeah I drop coat just before it flashes off but the mottle is on the edge of my blend when I flick it out where it’s a little dry[/quote] Instead of flicking it out at the edge I angle the gun inward and feather the trigger from air only to full fluid as I come in toward the repair. I seems really weird at first but after a while it becomes simple. When done correctly this will eliminate the dry edge.
Was there any type of filler in those areas?
:spraywelc:
Left side would be hard to keep away from the edge. Right side from the picture looks blendable. If I were doing this job I would not blend the bedside but I have a mixing system and a paint camera. Make a test panel as already suggested. If it looks good try to stay away from the edges as much as possible. The left side will probably have base to the edge but it doesn’t have to be full coverage so it may not shift the color much. Also there are plenty of things to draw your eye away from the match such as the stripe tail light top cover. Good luck.
:welc
I have used this clear for a little while now and I have to say its really nice especially for bumpers. Before I started using it I got some advice from my Rep. He said to mix it 3:1:1 instead of 4:1:1 and add 2350 additive to it. I ve done several bumpers, a couple 2 panel jobs and today a hood on a Cobalt. The Rep said for the hood to use 2.5 coats(1 full coat 1 light coat and another full coat) I thought for sure it would solvent pop but it turned out loking more than smooth enough for a cobalt. 😉 I wouldn’t use it for BMWs and such but imo it has it’s place in collision shops.
[quote=”xtremekustomz” post=32595]What are you guys using to clean the headlights? I saw on the video some scuff paste and plastic cleaner. Seems no one around here sellsiter of them.[/quote]
presta makes a really good paste called ” scuff stuff”. Most paint suppliers should have or at least be able to get it. If not I’m sure you could get it online. As for the cleaner, any waterbased cleaner should do fine.I paint in a collision shop so I don’t do much in the way of graphics flames etc. I have done quite a bit of 2-toning with the tape you mentioned with no problems. You just have to pull it off at the right time and the right way. Also be careful on turns not to stretch it too much or it will tend to shrink back and pull loose. I usually put a small piece of regular masking tape over it on the turns. There may be a better/cheaper tape out there but I personally havent had any issues with this tape.