Dennis Lambert
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:rock Excellent,rock on. Nice lookin’ job! :cheer:
I’m sorta glad factory bumpers don’t match. :lol1 Makes my job easier sometimes.
You were not thinking of leaving the bumper raw I’m assuming. Just asking.
I’ve never sprayed that color code but looking at the standox solvent formula it doesn’t look like a poor hider. If I were doing it I would just prep & prime the bumper as long as it is a med. grey or lighter and maybe put a light sealer on the front edges of the fenders where the bumper meets just to make sure I have about the same coverage there.
:agree A couple of psi can make a big difference to.
I have used a sata hood for quite a few years and really like it. The lens area is pretty big and it is lightweight IMO .I guess it does limit your vision up and down a little but not too much. I have also used the 3m helmet type. The vision field is larger but I found it to be heavier. We also have a refrigerator type air dryer so the breathing air is nice and cool in the summer.
[quote=”murray34″ post=31236]3m sun gun is a good investment, you can check your coverage in the booth. Everybody’s done it don’t feel bad.[/quote] :agree The best way to use it is with the booth lights off. I don’t know how many times it has saved me. 😉
I may be wrong in my thinking but I know with standoblue there is a hardener for underhood. It wouldn’t be best practice but I think for regular collision repair especially down low on the vehicle it would be every bit as good as factory. We are looking into water and this is something I’m gonna find out for sure.
Thanks again Ryan about the slurry mix. Now for some reason I’m wanting to go 7/11 at lunch for a frozen beverage. :exci :rofl :headsmack:
Love 3 stage colors :woohoo: …not. Never heard of the slurry mix thing. Gonna try it sometime. Makes a lot of sense. A couple things I do on 3 stage colors. I always make a spray-out with base only and 1-4 coats of mid. Hardly ever use 1 or 4 but it helps to see which way the color is affected. The only time I don’t do a spray-out is when I already have that variant sprayed on file. Another thing in trying to match a single bumper is I try to get as close or closer as the other bumper is to the vehicle.If it is off a little I make sure it is off in the same direction (lighter,darker,bluer,etc…) and that the sidetone flop is right.The camera is also a big help to me but I don’t trust it without doing a spraycard. Sometimes but not often I have let the camera scan the entire database as a solid to choose my base. :silly: 😛
You can’t sand metallic base at all right before clearing. It will mess the flake effect up. On solid colors you could but I wouldn’t. Just clear , sand, and clear again.
I was assuming you were putting down a wet bed first. If not you need to spray it to the end of the panel. Usually when there is a dark flop in a certain area the flakes are laying flat instead of standing up where theyr’e suppose to. Too much or too slow of a reducer can make this happen or maybe too low air pressure. One way I was taught for blending and flake control was that after acheiving coverage add reducer or colorless to the mix and apply over the last coat before it flashes all the way but not too soon or it will “get lost” in what’s already there. Hope you can resolve this. Seems like you realy care about the quality of your work. :cheer:
Welcome to the forum. I havent been here long either. This site is very helpful. I agree ttwith rikka23. Just thought I’d share about two things here. We had this problem one time and after ruling out everything else had all the shop air lines flushed. Took care of it. Another time the cause turned out to be reasphalting in the neighborhood. First try to deterimine whether it’s airborne or surface contaminants. This aint easy. Good luck. :cheer:
[quote=”luke” post=31005]Thanks for the info guys. I will try the premium clear. Also for any of you using solvent base, what is your preferred method of blending? Do you add reducer or colorless for your final coat? I’ve spoke with two reps and got two totally different answers.[/quote]
That’s kinda a tough one. Sometimes I’ll over-reduce 30% on top of already reduced b/c . Sometimes I go 1:1 or even 2:1 with colorless b/c. It mostly depends on the color. Some metallics don’t do well when over-reduced IMO. I almost always over-reduce the last coat on a light solid color. When fading in a blend I will reduce gun pressure,increase gun distance,and slow down enough as to keep from having a dry blend. I also angle the gun in toward the repair and feather the trigger from outside in. So all of this is a matter of personal preference. What works for me might not work for the next guy. Hope this helps.
Yeah. Never hurts to ask. I think I have my jobber talked in to giving me some platinum clear. Have you ever tried it? I sprayed it once at a class but everything works great in class. 😉