Dennis Lambert
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[quote=”luke” post=30991]Thanks for the reply. I can get decent results with w400lv. I tried 1.3 and 1.4fn. 1.3 seemed to break it up better but I felt it was slow and had to work at it too much. I’d like to hear how the ws400 hd 1.3 works out for you as that’s the exact gun I’ve been considering but am unsure if I should get standard 1.3 or hd version.[/quote]
I’ll gladly do that. I’m impressed with this gun so far. I have noticed that I am moving faster with this gun compared to the w400 and it seems to have a wider pattern. I might test the pattern on each gun and measure them. I also prefer the 16252 clear over the 15-60. The 15-60 does fine for me on bumpers and some panel jobs but the premium clear is a lot esier to get really nice results. I usually adjust the viscosity of both these clears as they will definetly spray different at different viscosities.For me the 15-60 does well at 17 sec. and the 16252 @ around 18 IMO. In hot humid conditions I sometimes add some plasticiser to them to keep the clear “open” longer. To measure viscosity with standox you need to use a din4 cup. :cheer:I’ve been spraying 15-60+ and 16252 with a w400lv 1.3 set up for almost 3 1/2 yrs with nice results spraying 1.5 coats.I recently bought a ws400 evo hd 1.3 IMO it breaks up the clear even better but I havent been using it long.Got mine brand new on ebay real cheap. Well, for an Iwata 😛
Thanks for the info. Definetly gonna contact my rep and see about using the 2k hardners. If he says no it may even be worth switching to the whole pf line.
When our shop was testing the pf filler(primer) the standox rep who was some kind of national head of something, I forget what, brought us the primer and some fast dry additive but no hardeners. He said for us to use the hardeners that we were using and told us to mix it 4:1:10-15% using the fast dry additive. We soon found out we didn’t need the additive because it kicked it over before we could even finish spraying it so we just mixed it 4:1. I guess they were trying to see if it would work with the HS hardeners. This primer (at least the white) works very nice with these hardeners, dries very fast, sands amazingly, and we haven’t had any issues with feather edges or sand scratches. I’m not recommending that you do this, I’m only telling how it worked for us. I am definitely interested in the PFC 30 but I think for spraying clear I would use the PF hardeners. 😉
[quote=”jim c” post=30964]Jimmo i do know exactly what the guy was talking about with the polishing first but your also going to have peeling issues down the road. Anything beyond 800grit becomes problem.[/quote]In the standox class I went to they said to buff the panel and then sand it w/1000 grit. Sounds silly but they said it helps. :unsure:
I really like the 16252 clear so how does it compare?
Our shop has been using the pf filler for a wile. We were in on the testing of it. I prefer the white myself.Really like the way it sprays and it sands better than anything I’ve ever used. We actually spray it with a 1.3 gun and are able to get good mils. The primer really sinks down and fills 180 grit scratches. We are considering switching from standox solvent to standoblue.
I did a search on this site’s archives about this topic and found it has been brought up before in the past.I didn’t mean to :deadhorse put the folks who’ve been here a while through this again but a lot of really good stuff has been brought out here. I’ve also heard about buffing blend panels before painting in a standox class but haven’t tried it yet.Thanks for all the input. :cheer:
A dupont rep told me one time that by adding flex to their clears would make them a little more chip resistant. I really dont know if it’s true. I just always assumed it was so I was thinking with the headlights it couldn’t hurt. :unsure:
Thanks , I,m trying to determine if clearing lights is the way to go or not. In our shop we have sanded and buffed my mom’s ’05 Maxima several times. They look good for a while but then in a few months ,not so good again. So that’s why I’m wondering if clearing headlights with a quality 2k clear with flex additive mlght do better in the long run.
Is the tint you use like a clear basecoat or a tinted clear? Do you put flex additive in your clear? Thanks for the reply.
Strawberry has it exactly right. A shop that would hire a person with little experience to be head painter is not a place I would want to be a part of. Experience is a very good teacher. You may be able to paint great but you need to be able to handle any and all problems that come along.That’s where a seasoned professional really shines (so to speek). So yes you need to have a passion to paint but start out under a painter with lots of experience and respect that person, be open minded,willing to listen and learn, and stay on this site. Best of luck!
Sweet lookin’ ride. :dnc :rock
You probably would have to raise the pressure but then you might have more overspay. I say stay with the 1.3 as long as you are pleased with the results and have good film build. Some of the clears I spray actually recommend a 1.2 or 1.3. Some folks do fine with a 1.4 but they may be putting on more clear than needed.
I’ve painted over ceramic coated oven doors one time by sanding with 180 grit d/a then spraying some self-etching primer. It worked alright I guess. I know the guy I done them for and I haven’t heard otherwise. Ofcourse they aren’t exposed to the elements though.