Dennis B.
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After mixing up a small batch & spraying it I wish I had done the whole car in it it went on smooth and thin I was afraid it would go on thick and sloppy
Thanks Bloverby
Well yesterday I put some Slick Sand or what ever its called on it and some primmer Ill give the thing a day or two too dry out real good before sanding may even let it sit out side in the sun for a while too.
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Hi Jack
Just Primmer in some spots and Bondo in others. I Have no Idea why it did that.
When my Dad bought the thing about 7-8 years ago it was nice but it went down hill quick almost as fast as he did.I shot it with 2 coats of Epoxy last night going to shoot Primmer on it today and Slick Sand in a few spots then start sanding more.
Hi Canuck
It’s all going back together the same way it came apart
Hopfully It will just look fresher/Newer.Yikes just going through my files its such a simple car I havnt taken maney pictures of it I will regret that latter I am sure :S
[IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t44/Marvinator/41ford012-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t44/Marvinator/41Fordcollection010-1.jpg[/IMG]
Thanks Jim
Now I have an area to post my progress :exciAnd get my beatings at :S
Heck as beat up as some of that stuff is wouldnt he be saving some money on labor by replacing some skin?
Nice work on those others!
Thats a good one I hadnt seen that one before either
Well just for me not knowing right from wrong I always treat a Complete like a lady and start at the Top and work my way down! Just me though… :silly:
“approved” sequence of panels?
I start at the top the roof then the sides then work from the Ass around the car then back to the top chassing the dry spot :blush: :exci :lol1 :blink: :roflAgain its just me I’m no X’spurt
An X is a has been the spurt is the part left over :rofl
Cheapest junk I can
:welc Hi
Hey Jack ya got enough Bondo to fix that one?
Yikes! I used to live right up the road from there! about oh 2-3 miles! I never ever seen a Brown bear that close to town before EVER! and I lived in Anchorage for 20 years.
There’s always more than one way to skin a Cat Lots of wrong ways too.
The following is from SPI
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htmThe Perfect Paint Job
December 2008Our goal is to accomplish a paint job that with a strong foundation, with a maximum
gloss that will last for many years. This type of painting is not practical for the
everyday production body shop but will serve you well when you do a restoration or a
street rod job. We are going with the assumption that the metal, or fiberglass has been
stripped of all paint.All bare metals and aluminum should have 80 grit DA scratches.
Bare metal is always best cleaned with #700-1 waterborne wax and grease remover then
let it sit 30-6o minutes before applying epoxy!After first reading our Epoxy Tech Sheet, mix enough #6600 series epoxy to spray two
wet coats over the entire car. Spray one wet coat and let flash about 30 minutes, then
apply a second wet coat. Let the epoxy set overnight and then apply body, or fiberglass
filler and glazing putty over the epoxy. It is not necessary to sand the epoxy before
applying the fillers, as they will bite into the epoxy, and feather great. When you have
finished sanding all of the bodywork, you are likely to have some bare metal spots from
sanding. Spray one wet coat of epoxy over all filler spots and over any bare metal spots.
Let the vehicle set overnight.The next day, you can start spraying the 2K primer over the epoxy. Once again, it is not
necessary to scuff or sand the epoxy before applying primer. The most important
thing to remember at this point, is spray one wet coat of primer, and let it set for 30
minutes before applying the second coat. Follow this procedure between coats of primer.
This step, when abused, messes up more paint finishes than anything else!When all of the primer blocking and any necessary primer repairs have been done, it is
always best to use the epoxy as a sealer. Mix up enough epoxy to go around the car with
one wet coat, adding a double shot glass of SPI #885 urethane reducer, per quart. Let the
epoxy set for 30 minutes. Stir one more time, and strain. Spray one full wet coat of epoxy
over the entire car. The epoxy should set for 24 hours, then wet sand as needed, with
600-800 grit paper and then you are ready to base.Next to rushing the 2K primer, rushing the base coat is the second cause for the final gloss
and depth of a paint job to look bad. It is very important use the slowest urethane reducer
in your base that you can get away with, no matter what the outside temperature is. Just
allow enough extra time for the base coat to flash and dry. The difference between a very
slow grade and medium grade reducer will show up in the final gloss. The slower grade
also has better solvency and will give you far better adhesion. Spray the first coat, and let
it totally dry, before spraying the second coat. It is best to wait 45 minutes between
coats.Option if base coat isn’t perfect:
After two coats, the vehicle should set overnight, then do minor wet sanding with 1500
grit sandpaper to remove any orange peel or trash. Apply the next two coats with 45
minutes of flash time in between. Some colors require additional coats. If this is the
case, again, wait 45 minutes between coats. Let the base coat set overnight.Tack off the next day, apply a wet coat of SPI-Universal, SPI-MS or SPI-HS Clear, and
let the clear flash as needed. Let the first coat of clear set 30 minutes.Spray the second wet coat of clear, let it set 30 minutes, then spray the third coat of clear.
From two days to two weeks after the job has been completed, wet sand the clear with
400-800 grit sandpaper, blocking out any orange peel or dirt. After wet sanding, let the
car set in sun for a day then apply a wet coat of clear. Let the clear flash 30 minutes.
Apply a second coat of clear, then 30 minutes later come back with a third coat of clear.Let the vehicle set two or three days in the sun to help to get all of the solvents out and
settle the paint job. If any wet sanding is required before buffing, sand with 1500 grit
sandpaper, then set the vehicle in sun for two to three hours. Bring the car back into the
shop, and allow it cool to room temperature, then buff.If you follow these directions, you will have a durable paint job, with maximum depth
and gloss over a solid foundation, which will last for many years to come.Deflate the tires? heck Id have to build some sort of scaffolding to work on that thing! :lol1
Speaking of that I knew there was something else I had to do today :S