Mike Murphy
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That’s possible, only time will tell. And I don’t spray color at 15 psi, just the clear. I really can’t make clear dry faster than it will?? Not saying 15 psi is right or the way it should be, just something I tried and the clear laid out nice. That’s all I can tell you. Here are 2 of the 3 I did at 15. Not the greatest ever, bit certainly not the worst either. Just trying stuff here fellas, don’t have to beat me up over it.
No man when I spray a fender or something without so many peaks and curves like a bumper cover, 15 psi sprays freekin slick! No joke. I was shocked myself.
We dont have a baking booth and I cant have a collision job sitting in the booth all day. 2021 is a 12 hour clear. I have to use something that will flash fast so I can get moving onto the next job. 2042 I believe is a 5 hour clear. So I use the DC2000 which is a wet on wet 10 min clear if I remember right (nib in 25 min). I probably could do a DC3000. I think its like 1.5 hour clear. And maybe I should be more specific. We really only do light collision. A bumper cover, or a fender or quarter blend. That kind of thing. Never really noticed a gloss problem with the 2000?
The boss is considering changing systems thats why I havent taken a product course yet.I rarely use 2021. Only on the show cars. For everyday collision work its typically the DC 2000 speed clear and once in a while 2042. We typically do 9 full frame off nut and bolt restos a year.
I have ran 15 psi on the last couple and it works well because I get less nibs, but definately easier to sag on the bumper covers that way.Ive gotten a couple sags with the 1.4 Sagola on some more complex parts. So I talked to the rep today and he is going to bring me a 1.2 3000 RP next week to try out. I may pick it up if its a good price, for doing bumper covers and such. I love the Sagola for overalls/hoods…etc… but I find myself cranking the material down when doing collision work. New nozzel and tip for it is $150, so I figured that is almost 1/3 the price of a new gun. Could very well be me and how I spray, but will enjoy trying out a different (and highly recommended) gun either way.
I use a Sata 3000 HVLP for metallic base and I couldnt ask for anything more. I used to spray clear with it too but it left a pretty bad orange peel.
Cool I will look into it.
Screw that! They have a guy that comes to the dealership and stencils them in. They wouldnt like the old school lines I pull anyway!
Yep, and they wipe off with one swoop of a laquer soaked rag!
Using blue fineline. I always pull it back across itself. I will give the other stuff a shot.
I used one once and it worked ok. Just felt like I was cheating! If your interested in pulling your own lines you might check out Kafka brushes. They work much better than Mack for me.
I was having the same problems and asked a similar question here. As suggested i got some water based cleaner and wipe it with that, it helps cut the static down a lot.
Once you get through the “shell” of the primer it doesnt do it anymore.
Oh i got ya. Just an odd size for doing much else besides primer. Perfectly good finish gun im sure, but would be better suited with a smaller tip size for that.
Where do you live? I noticed down here in Florida the static just started getting bad in the last month or so as well. Air is dry.
Paul was that intended to be a primer gun for you?
