Jayson Munro
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
One more vote for RPS cups,its nice to always have a clean cup and no liners to deal with.The lack of restriction while spraying is nice let alone when you get down down to the last few ounces you don’t have to worry about a liner sucking crap threw the strainers and land in your paint work(like the 3m or devilbiss system).RPS is the way to go :cheers
Great to hear from you Ben!! I am glad the world is treating you well and things are going great at your shop.Sadly there doesn’t seem to be much traffic here these days.I wish every one here a safe Merry Christmas and all the best for 2016.You too Jack :p
Anything is possible,the solvent could have caused a short and drained the battery.I would take it apart and clean it up,it does look dirty and looks like solvent has gotten inside the gauge.
Your gun will have a 3 year warranty as long as you filled out your cards.Quick easy thing to check is the battery dead?I would just send it back the more you dick with it you will void your warranty.I hate digital guns,they never seal well and usually the solvent or WB cleaner gets inside and fuks them up.HTH
That brings me back to the 80’s,I remember doing it with RM Miracryl and Ditzler Delstar acrylic enamel paints.Within 2 years they were peeling terribly.Both companies at the time said you can clear over top wet on wet with no problems,but so many shops had to redo tons of cars.I personally wouldn’t even dream of doing it again,I would tell your customer no can do or buy bc/cc.Even if you lightly scuff it with a gray pad(non metallic) I would offer no warranty.My 2 cents hope it helps you 😉
I use a prolite for sikkens autowave that is fairly similar to envirobase.What I use is a te20 air cap 23-26 psi for coverage coats,17-20psi for your drop/control/orientation coat/blending.I think a 1.3 is suggested for enviro.I would go to the devilbiss charts look at ppg section and go with their recommendations,the paint company has no idea what gun you are using. Check out my link then click on spray gun set up.
http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/
We got the mid sized light as we didn’t see the pen light or bigger one would have much use.The red anodized ring retains the lense over the bulb.If you leave it red it seems to cast a yellow/reddish tint to the light,painting it black seems to cut down on that.You can get a local battery place to rebuild the sun gun batteries so don’t throw them out.The scangrip light is well priced but not as good as the sungun IMO.
Our shop got one about 2 months ago and it is still on the first charge,lasts a long time.It is very reasonably priced and seems to work pretty good.I have found it to throw out a slight yellow cast and not quite as brite as the sun gun.I took the red anodized ring around the lens and painted it black and it seemed to help.I would give it an 8 out of 10 not perfect but pretty damn good.Try one out and tell us what you think.
I used a tekna for WB for 2 years and I always had to struggle with any color that had 888DF(autowave fine metallic toner) as it was darn near impossible to get to lay out nice no matter what I did.A friend and member here was nice enough to give me his old NR2000 that needed a little bit of loving.Even though there are a ton of miles on this gun it out performs a tekna or prolite anyday of the week IMO for base.
For a long time my go to guns were the NR2000 and a first gen RP until the 5000rp came along.I did try a W-400 and it’s a great gun but I find it slow,great for a panel or 2.I never had much interest in trying the supernova,not crazy about having to turn the fan in so much to get speed.I don’t like to fuk around,I like to get some clear on the car and get out of the booth,speed and a nice finish is important to me,thats why I dig the 5000 and no other gun comes close except the first rp or 3000IMO.HTH
Pretty sure there is a classified section here you can list your guns with no worries.
I never really liked the TE10 air cap couldn’t really get it to do anything that I was happy with.In short is you want a job to have a little more texture/peel the te10 is a good choice.I would suggest using a TE20,it has better atomization and metallic control.I had a real run of using teknas for WB and the prolite for clear but don’t really care for them anymore.Let us know how you make out with the TE20 as it’s a more rounded air cap.
I’m glad you guys got your guns working.I was reading the literature that came with the 5000rp and it says max 35 psi.Not sure why so many reps tell you 25 psi is enough for clear with that gun as it clearly is not.If you are using a 1.2 or 1.3 you will not need as much psi as a 1.4.I run mine wide open(1.4) with 33-34psi with sikkens superior 250 pack.Very happy with this setup.
I forgot to mention that I find the 5000 needs more air pressure,I run mine (1.4 wide open fan/fluid) at 32-34psi but would use 30psi for the first gen rp.I have also found even at that high of a pressure it still uses a little bit less material.Experiment a bit and see what you like,Im glad you like it so far.
I have been an RP user for 15 years and tried them all.I love the 5000rp and have been using it since late last year.I find the speed is very comparable between the first gen,3000 and 5000.If you feel you are getting too much film build you can try decreasing your distance and moving faster with a tighter overlap,increasing pressure is also a possibility along with using a slower mix.A thick coat of a fast mix/speed clear will skin over causing solvent pop.HTH
If you wish to use the ford color use the colormap location.If you go into the computer in the standard collections then put the color map location in the akzo code section you will get an up to date formula the the CM location.This is a better option that just typing in the color map location and having the computer give up 10 choices that are somewhat close.Viper blue is also pretty sweet.
Try code “F” it comes up as a different name but it is a dark blue for 1965 mustang.