Jayson Munro
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I get a kick out of the 1.5 coats vs 2.5 coats and the struggle for a color match but it is the fastest product out there :blink: It does not make sense how you can bag on a coat and a half and clean out your gun and clear it,I doubt the tds really says that.There is a shop in my area that has 2 years worth of cromax redos and its not the painter or the shop.The reps told them how fast it was and how you can push it but in the end they did not stand behind the product and the shop is on the hook.
Entry level?Your kidding right….there are plenty of guys here with decades of experience that do there job very well.
What kind of blowers?the ones built into the booth like the junair quads that come on with a bake/ramp cycle?Are the vehicles washed?What kind of materials are you using?
Change your hose,change the desicant in your air filtration before the booth(if you have it)clean your blowers(if you have the portable blowers on stands,the screens fill with junk)use an anti stat wipe.
Welcome to the site :cheers Maybe tell us your procedures and maybe we can help.
Do you wash the cars before they start work and before they go into the booth?
Do you mask to keep dirt contained and not fly into your clear?
Do you wipe the jambs before masking?
How much do you blow and tack etc?
Do you use an anti-stat wipe/tack rags?
Some booths are just dirty no matter what you do,I assume it has been cleaned,wall coated(some wall coats that stay tacky can help)fresh filters etc.Can you balance the booth?If it has too much pressure or not enough this can cause swirling and pick up dirt.Very nice work Jeremy :cheers I see your using the shitty blue american tape,how do you like it?How much is the 3m gold paper?
You said… “I can’t use some techniques that I am accustomed too” No kidding,you have to change for the product and be open to new ways,you can’t abuse it like you did with solvent.
If you actually reviewed it and did a demo first you would know that its not going to work with your old techniques,hell you should have known that at the application course.You came here for some tips/help/advice but you are stuck on your old ways,unless you change it won’t work for you.
Six small jobs a day is not hard to do with waterborne,there must be more to the story.[quote=”Snipe Hunter” post=33982]First… I’m not using Bulldog on bumpers… I “did” use it for years. It was a decent adhesion promoter over plastic and helped hide scratches. Never had a problem with it. I’m not using it with the water based paint… it doesn’t work.
I’m not in a position to use a 2k primer unless I’m doing a bike or a retail car. I do very little retail work. I can keep bikes a longer so I can use 2k primers and I can wait till the next day to cut and buff. I do stay within the system when time and money warrants it. For the most part, my business is all fleet, rentals, dealers, etc.. I rarely have a car more than a day and most of my work is spot repair. They aren’t looking for perfection or longevity nor are they paying for it. In in the morning and out by 5pm. If I have a car more than a day, I did something wrong. I’ll shoot an etch primer on bare metal and a 1k on plastic. Everything is warranted for a year and I’ve never had a failure that I’m aware of. I’m a technical purist when it comes to my customer’s personal bikes and the occasional retail car job but not when it comes to the fleet business. In and out, it’s the business that I’m in….
I did take the application course and the paint acts just like it should. It just takes more time than solvent borne. I have used Onyx in another shop which is a solvent based low voc “hybrid” and it “acts” more like traditional solvent based paint. You can see it flash off faster and it covers 400 to 600 better than the Aquabase… Coverage is about the same as the Aquabase.[/quote]
I really dont know what you are asking here.You do cheap fleet work…..well you got to do what you have to do I guess.So I don’t understand why you put in a high $ system,it makes no sense,why not put in a low voc solvent base or keep using diamont.There are plenty of ways to maintain production but using cheap 1k and etch primer,no sealer etc is going to be counter productive.Spend the time to prep finer,it doesn’t take much extra time,you need to get”hiding or filling scratches with base” out of your head,it just doesn’t work.Spraying waterborne over rattle can primer is asking for trouble,the base will actually eat into it eventually.
Why are you using bulldog on bumpers?Throw that shit in the garbage and stick to something in your system.
You don’t need waterborne primer,a low voc 2k urethane will work just fine,again stick to something in your system.
There is nothing wrong with finishing your primer to 400 and using a dedicated sealer in you system,much faster than putting on more coats of paint,sealer will always be cheaper than paint.Paint is an expensive primer,paint is not desigened to hide scratches.If you finish your primer to 400-500,blend panels in 800 that will work fine.It sounds to me like you need to take an application course to learn the specifics at your products training center,its not like solvent you can’t cheat.All I have is the regular venturi blowers in my booth and I can still pump out 5-6 jobs a day if I hustle(thats doing my own masking)
What gun are you using?
Excellent work Nick :cheers You have an excellent example of how filler work should be done,beautiful feather edging with no filler over paint….very nice.
I haven’t heard much about it,not sure if they made a new line or just revamped the old one.They did make new metallics that were in the test market over 2 years ago so I suspect thats what it is.The old stuff works pretty good and everytime we make a jump to the newer version it is an improvement,(autobase to autobase plus to autowave etc) Im looking forward to hearing more about it,maybe Ryan knows more.
Welcome to the site :cheers Fire away and your questions will be answered,most of the guys here have been in the industry for many years.
Classic hauler asked…
“So, I’ve never understood why the part of the door that the panel covers is usually painted a different color than the rest of the interior part of the door. can someone please explain this to me, it seems to be a pointless detail because it just gets covered up anyways”.
Its easier to do one color and clear the inside of the door and then do the other interior color.No real reason just that ford was dumb for putting a 2 tone on their doors for interior.
You know I did demo a 4400 extreme with the clear cap and a 1.4 and I could get a nice looking job with it.But I could really take or leave its performance as it just didn’t fit the way I paint.I just didn’t find it comfortable,it was big and bulky compared to other guns and the big sloppy trigger got annoying,not to mention speed was just not there.After looking at the parts breakdown of the gun it looks like there are still a couple of seals.I think you need to try different guns to see if they meet your needs,no gun is perfect for everyone.Everyoneseems to forget that its the guy pulling the trigger that makes the difference.
Nice home shop :cheers