Jayson Munro
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[quote=”martinMK” post=32806]Getting a bit hot on the discussion.. I am not here to blame or to defend companies.. but do you think that a company can get an ISO and TUV certificate if they copy/paste guns from Sata..
They had ongoing R&D for 8 years I believe..
Maybe the design is alike Sata..
Don’t judge book by its covers..[/quote]
Its identical to a sata 4000,the only thing different is the fan control knob and the threads instead of a quick conect cup.You will need a sata 4000 to compare not a 3000,apples and oranges comparison that will get you nowhere :deadhorse
I spotted those on ebay,cant believe they get away with that.Its no different than copying a car or any other part,I hope they get sued….
You mean your not in the group purchase :rofl :rofl :rofl How come you are stripping it?does it have a few repaints on it? Check out WA560Q ice pearl,its cleaner with a blue flip as opposed to WA800J which is too yellow IMO.Thanks for posting pics :cheers
If you pm ryan999 he has sprayed cromax for a few years and can give you an honest review.I have sprayed sikkens autowave for over 4 years and love it,color matches are incredible and so is the clear.Farecla has some polishes that work on superior,buffing is not a big deal.
I hate to break it to you but you are going to spend in the neighborhood of $1500 just for primer base and clear for that truck without the other materials.Glasso and spies will be more expensive.If you are concerned with price use a white primer and sealer get omni plus base and put concept 2021 clear on it.No real cheap way around it,tri stage is expensive especially doing a color change,good luck :cheers
well at least you didn’t give him any money and buy into his scam :cheers
KLese said- sata 4000b does not have a fan control knob……
Yes it does its on the left hand side of the gun instead of directly on top of the fluid control like devilbiss guns :p
Everybody gets on sata about the price,but in reality if you buy from a good jobber you will get a better price$700 or $800 retail turns into $500 or $600 wholesale.WHen it comes to buying a quality tool that you will use day in and day out that will last the test of time sata has the edge.The prolite is a great gun IMO and so is the 4000 you can’t go wrong with either one.There are a few differences but nothing major.
Welcome to the site :cheers
[quote=”Ben” post=32692][quote=”smooth” post=32687][quote=”Ben” post=32686]It will be here soon. Turns out I’m already signed up for the first training class/demo. I believe that will be in about a month. Appearantly they solved the fast drying issues and gave it slowed down better.[/quote]
The Sherwin not cutting it for ya Ben??? LOL[/quote]
It’s not too bad, a few quirks and such. My boss is a big RM/Glasurit fan, and the service from the BASF distributor is far better than SW. And service sells…[/quote]
Plus you get to deal with John Olivier,damn good rep and a gentleman to boot 😉 I am interested in how you make out,please let us know.Just remember Jason from carlson’s was never a rep :rofl :rofl
Adhesion problems come from the base not flashing enough before clear and the painter rushing to get the clear on,also common with solvent base.A pressure washer on ANY rock chip will peel whatever the product…..
Well good luck and I hope it works out for you.As A side note unless I was there and saw him mixing it off of a deltron system I wouldn’t buy it,I don’t know of anyone who has had good luck with online sales for color,clear and primer yes.Good luck :cheers
I am also interested to hear feedback on how good it works.Drying to fast, very difficult to blend have been common complaints with low voc solvent systems.Would be cool if they get it figured out.
So your buying it online and going to get 2 gallons of unreduced dbc for $385?Like others have said I doubt you are getting dbc,more like omni mbc in a deltron can.If something is too good to be true it more than likely is,IMO I would stay away from online sales when it comes to buying paint,you really don’t know what you are going to get and good luck getting the online guy to stand behind what he sells you.
Clear coats are not all the same,generally the higher priced ones have better DOI,sprayability and will last without dieback pinching up etc.A cheap clear will look just like an expensive clear when sprayed but time is the enemy they just don’t stand up.I think 894 is nicer to spray and looks nicer than 2021,but either one will work for you.
Whoops must have missed that :headsmack: $400 a gallon is pretty decent,you will have 4 gallons sprayable by the time your done,that is more than enough.If it was me after it is prepped and ready to go I would use a white sealer,this will cut down on ANY coverage issues,you will only need 2 coats of white as long as your technique is good then go right to your midcoat,2 coats and a drop coat and you will be fine.
For cleaning I would use good old fashioned soap and water first then maybe a solvent W&G remover or waterborne cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and distilled water mixed 50:50 not a big deal really.For prepping you could use 600 wet 600 dry on an orbital or 800 but thats as fine as I would go,then gray pad your edges.In a pinch before scuff stuff/scuff gel came out we used to use comet and a gray scotchbrite with a bit of water,it does the same thing,that was actually taught at a paint course I took back in the early 90’s :rofl
Once your headlight is prepped you can now clean it blow it dry and proceed to clear,you could spray adhession promoter before clear but not needed since there is a profile for your clear to stick too.This also works for the guys who smoke tail lights.